Logic dictates that if you can’t get to the wasp hoard, they can come to you.

Right?

So you should look into baiting them into some DIY solutions to bring their population down.

Here are some possible solutions to get rid of wasps when you can’t find the nest or can’t see it.

Identifying the nest

Note that yellow jackets don’t nest in eaves or awnings. Their nests are on ground level rather than hanging.

Wasp nests will hang from eaves or roofing. This is one way to easily tell the difference between yellow jackets vs. wasp nests.

It’s important to know the difference because they’re two different species with different housing habits.

Wasps build their nests in a variety of locations, depending on the species.

Some common places where wasps build their nests include trees and branches (bald-faced hornets). Paper wasps tend to nest in house eaves. Potter wasps like to nest in sides of homes like mud daubers.

Yellow jackets tend to hide in random holes and containers.

Some species even excavate large holes in the ground like cicada killer wasps.

Types of wasp nests

They are typically made of a material known as paper, which is made up of chewed-up wood and plant fibers.

This is why soaking it with water makes it clump, which eventually can ruin the nest entirely.

Some common types of wasp nests include the following:

1. Paper Wasp Nest: These are small and flat, with a honeycomb-like structure- not to be confused with bee’s nests. You can find them hanging from eaves, branches, or other structures.
2. Mud Dauber Nest: These nests are made of mud. Because of their structure, they’re big and are often long and cylindrical. These nests are usually found attached to walls or other vertical surfaces.
3. Yellowjacket Nest: These secretive nests are usually located underground or in other hidden locations because of their nature. They are often made of paper and have a distinctive spherical shape, which makes it easy to tell the difference from wasp nests.
4. Bald-Faced Hornet Nest: These nests are usually large and round with a signature, dark grayish-brown color. They are often found hanging from trees or other tall structures.
5. Potter Wasp Nest: These nests look like miniature clay pots with a small hole at the top similar to paper nests. Female wasps will build their nests on the walls of houses or underground, mixing dirt and water in their mouths to build it.
6. Cicada Killer Wasp Nest: These nests are usually located in the ground and can be identified by the large holes, but you’ll need to look closely. They use this to deposit eggs.

How to find the wasp nest

If you’ve tried all the passive approaches but you’re still finding them buzzing around your property, maybe it’s time to locate the nest itself. Then you can get it removed.

Check around the eves, window corners, and fencing. They love to hide in wooden objects that have joints or provide some kind of gap for them to nestle in.

Look for cluttered areas with junk storage. Windowsills, awnings, shingles, roofing, porches, barns, sheds, rafters, or patios are all prime targets for nests.

They like covered areas that safeguard them from the elements (rain, sun, etc.). If you find it, there are some things you need to consider.

If it’s a paper nest, use a sprayer to soak it down. Stay at least 20 feet away wearing proper PPE in case they swarm. Do NOT attempt this if you don’t have the proper protection to shield yourself from them.

Call a professional instead. The ideal time to spray is in the evening twilight because they’re quietly resting during that time. Once you spray it, they’ll start flying out. Pay careful attention to the exit of the nest.

When the nest is soaked, use an insecticide wasp killer at the entrance of the nest. It’s where you saw wasps coming out of earlier. You can use an insecticide spray or dust right on this spot.

Do it in the evening. Be extremely quiet with proper protection. Again, do NOT attempt if you don’t have the proper gear or if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Eventually, they’ll come into contact with the poison, which kills the queen. They’ll abandon the nest.

Wasps bring food back to the nest to feed their young.

Use a spray

You can buy a wasp spray made just for wasps. Read all warnings before use.

This can help kill the wasps that are active within an area but won’t eliminate them as you don’t know where the nest is.

It’s only good for temporary wasp control if you have a lot of them.

If you can’t get to the nest, using a wasp spray is ideal.

Use a wasp trap

Buy a wasp trap from your local hardware store. These are specifically designed with pheromones to bait in male wasps.

They fly into the trap. Then they get stuck in the adhesive or funnel-shaped cone depending on what kind of trap it is. It works by killing the males because they can’t procreate without them so eventually the wasp population will be forced to migrate.

Even if you can’t see the nest or don’t know where it is, these traps work because you only need to place them where you see wasp activity. Usually, they hang to a hook or a stake.

Use as directed. Set up multiple stations for effective wasp control, but don’t place two of them too close in proximity because it reduces the effect. It’s cheap and passive, and it works even if you can’t get to the nest.

This is probably the easiest solution, but it does take some time for it to kick in. So if you’re in a rush, you may want to try something else. Keep reading.

Here are some popular choices (links to Amazon):

• RESCUE WHY trap
• Hanging wasp traps
• Defendy traps
• RESCUE TrapStick
• Wasp cather

Build a DIY wasp catcher

You can also build your own wasp nest if you don’t want to buy one.

Simply fill an empty plastic bottle with something sweet like dish soap.

The wasps will be drawn to the soap and will be trapped inside.

Here’s how to make one:

1. Cut off the top third of any 2 liter bottle.
2. Invert the top part of the bottle and place it inside the bottom two-thirds of the bottle. So it’s basically like a funnel.
3. Fill the trap with a mixture of sugar water or fruit juice. You can use anything sweet.
4. Some pole use Dawn dish soap. Experiments with the volume of water you use.
5. Place the trap in an area where wasps frequent, like your patio or garden.

If you have no access to their nest or can’t see it, it’s an ideal solution to use a wasp trap instead.

Make a wasp killer

Use a natural wasp killer. You can make a natural wasp killer at home using water and Dawn dish soap.

See the video following:

Call a professional

Tried everything but can’t get rid of the nest. Or do the wasps just keep building new ones?

Consider calling a pro to come handle the issue. They have access to industrial-grade supplies that the public can’t buy.

If you want to save time or energy (or just get it done right), just hire someone to do it for you. Call your local pest control companies. Get some quotes. If you’re able to find one that offers green or organic solutions, go for it.

Keeping wasps out

There are several ways to prevent wasps from building nests on your property.

Remove food sources

Wasps are attracted to sweet and sugary foods. Dish soap too.

Wasps love this sweet smelling foods so make sure to clean up any spills or crumbs around your home. This is why you see them buzzing around your plants or other edibles.

Keep your garbage cans tightly sealed and remove any overripe fruit from your yard.

Seal entry points

Seal any cracks or gaps in your home’s exterior, such as around windows and doors. Don’t forget the door gaps and the windowsills. You need to repair any gaps or cracks to prevent wasps from entering.

If you have a problem with them getting inside, consider patching up your house. Make sure there’s no gaps where they can get in.

Plant wasp repelling plants in your garden

Certain plants, such as mint, onion, garlic, citrus, eucalyptus, and citronella, can help repel wasps.

Plant them around the perimeter of your garden so it acts like a barrier.

You can also try hanging fake wasp nests around your property to deter them from building their own nests in your garden..  This is good if you can’t get to it or it’s hidden.

Did you get rid of the wasps?

Now you’re armed with the knowledge you need to identify, find, and eliminate the nest.

Even if you don’t know where it is, you have some places to look now.

You don’t need to know the specific location to get rid of the wasps. It’s important to set up repellents and exclusion so they don’t get into your home or garden.

Using repelling plants plus sealing up your house will keep them away. But if you can find the nest, get rid of it or call a professional.

There are plenty of things you can do even if you don’t know where it is located precisely.

If you have questions about your specific wasp issue, please post a comment.

The post How to Get Rid of Wasps (When You Can’t Find The Nest) appeared first on BugWiz.

Okay, that’s probably making you more worried. But why?

Because they don’t infest the house! Congrats…

But seriously though, you still want to get rid of them. They’re ugly. They’re big. They’re a nuisance.

Thankfully though, they’re usually just lone wanderers that got lost inside your home.

But if you have them in the yard, they’re likely to find their way in over and over.

In this guide, you’ll learn about:

• How to identify wood roaches
• Ways to get rid of them naturally
• How to keep them out of your home/garden

If you have questions about your specific infestation, please leave a comment at the end of this guide. I’ll try to get back to you ASAP- as usual!

Let’s dive in and send those roaches back where they came from!

What’s a wood roach?

Wood roaches are often confused with German, American, or the Smoky Brown cockroach.

These pests generally inhabit the outdoors, but may find their way into your house.

Other names

You may have heard wood roaches referred to as the following aliases:

• Pennsylvania roaches
• Virginia roaches
• Dusky roaches
• American roach or German roach (incorrectly)

Identification

The males have a tan coloration because of their wings.

The females have no wings and are not often seen because they hide. Both sexes have a clear stripe on the outside edge of their thorax, wings, and body.

The body is very similar to a German roach, but the behavior is different. While it may look like your typical household roach, they’re very different in how they act.

For instance, wood cockroaches don’t mind the light while other roaches will scatter when you flip on the switch. Wood roaches also come out during the day and night.

They aren’t skittish, so they won’t be afraid of you or the environment. They’re less likely to run away from you. They’ll wander around your garden, house, or garage.

There are a handful of common species of wood roach:

• Brown-hooded wood roach (Cryptocercus punctulatus)
• Pennsylvania wood roach (Parcoblatta pennsylvanica) 
• Dusky cockroach (Ectobius lapponicus)
• Fulvous wood cockroach (Parcoblatta fulvescens)
• Virginia wood cockroach (Parcoblatta virginica) 
• Spotted Mediterranean or tawny cockroach (Ectobius pallidus)

Wood roach vs. other roaches – How to tell the difference?

It’s important you correctly identify that you’re dealing with wood roaches rather than German or American cockroaches.

Using the wrong method to get rid of it will waste your time/money.

Here are some ways to tell the differences:

Wood roaches are very similar to the American cockroach. They have flat bodies with long antennae, legs, and visible spines. They’re smaller than the adult American roach.

They’re brown just like most other common household roaches.

These guys can get up to almost 2” in length. But most are under 1”.

Males can fly, but females can’t. Males can fly long distances and can mate with females far away.

Females have wings, but can’t fly. Females are smaller, shinier, darker, and have shorter wings with smaller wing pads.

Adults have cream stripes on their outer edges. Nymphs may have this feature too.

Do they bite? Are they dangerous?

These roaches don’t bite. They also aren’t known to carry pathogens. So you don’t have to worry about them.

Of course, if you see them in your kitchen, you should throw out food items that may have been exposed.

Why? Because their body fluids, poop, shed skin, and other waste products can cause adverse reactions. So while they won’t bite you, they’re still “dirty.”

Unlike other roaches, they don’t infest homes so they’re not a pest. While they’re scary, they’re harmless.

They don’t damage furniture, houses, or other items. Adults will fly around inside your house during mating season, but that’s about as annoying as they can get.

Can they infest your house?

These guys won’t infest your house or apartment because they require moisture and wood to thrive.

If you find one inside, it’s probably a lost wanderer. Just get rid of it by tossing it back out. If you find a lot of them, you may want to assess the situation.

They can be coming in because of poor garden hygiene or they’re native to your area.

Perhaps you have a wet room in your house? Consider the humidity levels. That’s the key to finding where they’re coming from.

They tend to favor zones with plenty of hiding places combined with very high humidity levels so they can thrive.

They feed on wood or rotting organic materials. So you must have that present too.

Where do they come from? Why do I have them in the house?

They can get inside from any of the common pathways like any other pest.

Unlike other cockroaches, they’re drawn to light sources.

So they can come in through window openings, crawl spaces, under your door, foundation cracks, houseplant hitchhiking, or even through firewood.

The males will be drawn towards bright lights at night. So if your home is “leaky” with a light source, they’ll come inside wherever the light leaks.

Wood roaches are found globally, but are native to the US. They’re found in Virginia, Pennsylvania, and other nearby regions. They live in the forest in moist woodlands with softwood logs.

You can also find them in plant waste, rain gutters, barks, leaf piles, wood piles, wooden siding, or other plant materials.

They often hide in garages, sheds, cabinets, crawl spaces, wood pits, or other zones that are wet. If you live near woody areas, you may see more of them because they’re natives.

Signs of infestation

Wood roaches are easily spotted visually. They’re not like regular roaches.

They have different behaviors so it’s easy to tell the difference between a wood roach vs. German or American cockroaches. They don’t infest your microwave, car, or house like other cockroaches do.

For example, they enter your house without caution. They remain active during the day and night.

They don’t scatter when you approach them. They aren’t afraid of you. A regular household roach will only come out at night in normal circumstances.

They’re also quick to scatter when they sense danger. Wood roaches just don’t care. They wander around inside your house in search of food (or a way to exit).

But they can’t mate inside, which is a good thing. You won’t find them in the dozens unless you’re in a woody area.

They can be quite a nuisance, but they won’t stay inside because they don’t get enough moisture inside. But if you have areas with high humidity, they can nest.

Note that they’re not common household pests. They’re in by accident. You may have brought them in with wood or soil. They may also seek shelter from the temperature.

If there’s a lack of food, they can come in. They can also enter because of lighting, such as indoor lights on porch lighting. Garden lights can also draw them to your yard.

Where do they hide? Nest?

Wooden roaches generally stay outside in moist woodlands.

But because roaches are often found cohabiting with humans, you may find them in your garden and eventually in your house.

They hide in wood piles, dirt, mulch, bark, or logs. They love organic matter where they can breed and nest.

These roaches require environments that are consistently moist so they can properly breed. Wood roaches won’t breed indoors due to the difference in humidity, so they’ll either leave your home or find a way out since they can’t breed.

The female wood roach rarely goes indoors.

She stays out in the moist environment to deposit egg capsules in loose barks of logs or stumps. This keeps them hidden from predators.

They’re easiest to spot if you know where to look. They naturally forage in forests, jungles, yards, etc.

They don’t come inside buildings. They don’t breed inside either. If you find one, it’s probably seeking relief from the temperature.

Once they get in, they look for warmth, moisture, food, and water. They may not know how to get back out.

So while it may look like they’re infesting your house, they’re just lost.

These roaches don’t usually infest the house like most other cockroaches. But you may spot one or two inside your house occasionally, especially when the weather changes.

If it’s too hot or cold outside, they may come inside for temporary shelter. So there’s no need to worry about them taking over your house. They’ll go away on their own unless you have them outside your house!

When they’re indoors, they will leave after the spring season.

What do they eat?

They eat organic materials like decaying litter, leaves, or other natural foliage. They don’t damage or eat your home’s structure.

They also don’t damage furniture, clothing, or other man-made goods. If they get inside your home, they may be eating dirt, houseplants, fungus, mold, waste, trash, or food bits that you dropped.

Similar to termites, wood borers, woodworms, etc. These guys will feed on rotting wood. They’re commonly seen in piles of firewood with high moisture levels.

Without moisture, they won’t breed. So you can use that to your benefit- if you remove the moisture from the room, they’ll leave on their own.

When are they active?

Wood roaches are most active during the summer months of May through June, which is their breeding season. Males and females seek out light and find each other in wooden logs in the forest.

They breed and then stay inside the log for years to raise the offspring. A single female can deposit up to 100 eggs in the same log!

Just like household roaches, they can infest your garden in huge numbers. This is why if you’re living in a woody area, you’ll likely find them natively in your yard.

How to get rid of wood roaches naturally

These guys rarely need any intervention because they don’t infest houses.

They go away on their own in the summertime. I’m sure you’ve already heard that mentioned multiple times already.

However, there are some things you can do if you have a lot of wood roaches exploring your property. Try the following DIY techniques to keep them out.

Get rid of firewood

This is probably the most effective thing you can do to keep wood roaches out.

You likely have some source of wood or organic matter nearby that they’re using as a temporary shelter. It doesn’t matter if it’s fireplace wood, piles of wood, bark, pallets, logs, etc. Whatever is wood is food.

They wander into your house from this shelter when they’re actively hunting or breeding. If you have firewood, make sure that you store it properly or completely get rid of it.

The same goes for anything else that’s wood or natural material. It can be where the roaches are hiding. Wood piles and logs should be stored away from your house as far as possible.

They should also be elevated so they can’t be easily infested by bugs. Never spray pesticides on firewood.

Store firewood as far as possible from your house. Moving the wood roach breeding site can help prevent infestation. Clean any firewood you bring inside.

Manually remove roaches

If you see any wood roaches inside your house, just vacuum them up or sweep them with a broom. Then discard them.

There’s no reason to freak out because they’re not interested in you- they just want to forage for food or hide from the weather. Be sure to clean up any roach guts because they’re food sources for OTHER roaches.

Remove dead roaches

Roaches that you kill should be removed immediately.

Once killed, the roach body will bring in other roaches that feast on it. Do not use a vacuum cleaner to kill roaches.

They get cut up inside the appliance and you’ll have to clean it even more. Use a brush/dustpan or gloves to pick it up. Sanitize the roach area free of guts.

What smell do they hate?

Roaches, in general, don’t like the smell of cedar.

You can use cedar wood around the garden to keep roaches out. You can also put them around your property like a fence. They also despise some scents like onion, garlic, or citrus.

Citrus oils work well as a natural, organic repellent. Dip cotton balls in the oil then place them in your house. It acts like a small bug bomb.

Reduce unnecessary lighting

Switch off lights on your patio, kitchen, porch, or garden that are not necessary. Male wood roaches will gravitate towards light in the mating season. Female roaches are also drawn to light as well.

By turning off lights, you remove their ability to seek out your property. You can also use curtains or blinds if you need to use light inside to stop the light from bleeding out into the yard where they’re scavenging.

Remove pathway markers if possible. They also drawn in bugs. Since they turn on at night, this is what gets them to your garden.

You’ll want to remove them if you don’t need them. Most pathway or patio lights are LED too, which is bug bait!

Switch to yellow lighting instead of white light. Adult males are attracted to bright lights. Yellow is less likely to bring in insects during the summer season.

Keep your garden clean

Your garden is likely the source of infestation for roaches. As mentioned earlier, they hide in decaying organic matter.

This includes wooden logs, stumps, bark, leaf litter, or foliage. If your garden is scattered with this kind of litter, then they have plenty of places to hide.

Keep your garden clean so you eliminate their hiding places. Doing basic things like:

• Mowing the lawn regularly
• Harvesting edibles on time
• Pruning plants
• Cleaning up grass clippings
• Clean up leaf litter
• Remove leaves, plant waste, or other debris from gutters and roofs.
• Wood, leaves, stumps, and other clutter should be removed because they’re breeding sites.
• Don’t let plant litter build-up
• Removing unnecessary plants
• Don’t plant edibles

Use dehumidifiers

If you suspect you have a roach infestation in the house, keep that area dry.

This will create an environment that they can breed in because of no humidity. It may force them to leave the area. You can also use fans to help evaporate water.

Keep it dry

Be sure to clean up spills or water in places where water is present. Don’t let water pool or collect stagnantly.

They only need a tiny amount of water to breed.

So it’s important to clean up spills immediately when you spill. Reduce humidity levels where possible. Running the AC may also help.

Plant insect-repelling plants

Some plants are known for their ability to repel roaches.

You may want to plant them around the perimeter of your garden like a fence to keep them out.

Here are some good plants for wood roaches:

• Rosemary
• Bay leaves
• Lavender
• Catnip
• Lemongrass
• Mint
• Garlic
• Onion
• Chrysanthemum
• Cedar

Fix leaks in your household

Got leaks?

These provide moisture to the roaches which will lure them into your house.

You need to fix them so the humidity doesn’t increase. Leaky plumbing is a common issue that brings bugs inside.

If you use a leak detector, you can find the source of it so you can repair it. Hire a professional if you need to.

Fixing the leaks will prevent pests like scorpions or cave crickets. Plus, it’s probably good for your property value.

Seal your house

Your house is your barrier from the outdoors. If it’s compromised, then that’s how they get inside. Roaches will enter your house from the tiniest of cracks or crevices.

Therefore, you must seal up your house so you keep them out.

Here are some of the most common points of infestation for roaches:

• Repair damaged screens on windows or doors
• Seal door gaps
• Fix wall damage
• Replace damaged weather-stripping
• Fix broken fencing
• Seal cracks in the foundation with caulk so they can’t sneak inside

They eat just about anything they can get but mostly are drawn to organic materials or just unhygienic conditions. Dirty homes or messy gardens are prime targets.

If you don’t know what you’re doing or how to fix something, hire a local contractor to do it for you. This investment goes more than just keeping your home free.

Hire a pro

If you don’t have the time or energy to get rid of them, hire a professional to do the work.

Find some local companies that offer green or organic pest control. They can assess the situation and then use the proper technique to eradicate the roaches.

They also have some products that are not available to the public. It’s up to you. Do you value saving money more or time more?

Of course, doing it yourself is much more rewarding and you learn how to fish. But other times, you just don’t want to deal with it.

Wood roach spray

If you must use a spray, consider using a green or organic choice.

Only do it when you’ve tried all the other DIY methods on this list. Sprays are often not good for people, pets, or the garden itself.

You can get started on Amazon for organic roach products.

If you have edible plants like fruits or vegetables, you need to use something that’s safe to spray. Be sure to use as directed. Read the label.

Wood roach prevention

When you’ve finally ridden the last wood roach, you probably don’t want to go through that again.

Sadly, if you’re in an area that has these guys natively in the surrounding area, you may find more in the future.

Here are some ways to keep the wood roaches out of your home for good:

• Replace roach traps regularly. Continue your indoor monitoring of pests even after you’ve ridden them.
• Check on them to see if new roaches have been caught. If you notice more roaches showing up on the glue, it may mean that roach season is probably taking place.
• Use sprays if you must. Apply as directed. Avoid using indoor roach sprays if possible.
• Get organic or green sprays that are rated safe for pets, people, and vegetables. This will make it safer for your garden should you have edible plants or ever plan to grow them.
• Continue keeping your garden clean and tidy. Clean your gutters, vents, window wells, etc.
• Keep plants pruned with zero leaf litter. Remove unnecessary foliage so that you eliminate hiding places.
• Keep your home in good condition. Make sure that it’s well sealed with no cracks so they can’t get inside through the crevices in the walls, foundation, doors, etc.
• Use wire mesh, caulk, or putty. Hire a professional repairperson if you don’t know what you’re doing.

If you don’t have the time or expertise to DIY it, call local pest control companies. Ask for green or organic methods if possible.

You’re not trying to kill the roaches inside your property. You’re trying to discourage them from coming in. They’ll leave on their own if the conditions are unfavorable.

Try to keep your house well insulated so they can’t get in. That’s the main thing you can do.

Did you get rid of the wood roaches?

So there you have it.

You now have everything you need to know to eliminate, repel, and get rid of wood roaches without using chemicals in your property.

While they may be scary to see, you can easily get them out just by making a few small changes.

Since they don’t infest your house, you just need to make it less favorable to them. Then they’ll leave on their own.

Do you have questions about your specific wood roach problem? Leave a comment!

If you found this guide helpful, please share some feedback by letting me know!

The post How to Get Rid of Wood Roaches (Beginner’s Guide) appeared first on BugWiz.

While beneficial in some cases, the majority of gardeners will want to keep them out of the yard. They chew on roots of plants, which will severally damage them.

Gophers will also dig extensive tunnels that can compromise the infrastructure of your home, not to mention uproot plants in their paths.

Thankfully, there are a few things you can do at home to get rid of them naturally.

In this guide, you’ll learn about:

• Why you have pocket gophers
• How to identify them
• How to get rid of them naturally
• Ways to keep them out of your garden

If you have questions about your specific gopher problem, please leave a message at the end of this guide.

Let’s get started.

What’s a pocket gopher?

Pocket gophers are rodents known for their small ears. They have large front paws with claws, which aid their teeth in digging through dirt.

These gophers are rarely an issue, but they can become a nuisance. This guide will teach you how to deter them from your yard without hurting these cute gophers.

Identification

They get their name because of their cheek pouches, which look like pockets. They’re also known as Thomomys.

They use them for something you may already know. They carry food. They can also open their pockets on the outside for cleaning or depositing food.

These gophers can be identified by looking for the following physical features:

• Large whiskers
• 12” in size when grown
• Yellow, brown, or black fur
• Lighter shade on their underside
• Extensive tunnel systems
• Large claws with large front teeth
• Short stubby tails
• Pink or skin tone feet
• Darker shade on the ventral side (top)

Wrongly identifying gophers can lead to using the wrong methods, so make sure you know what gopher you’re drawing with.

Pocket gophers are often referred to as generic “gophers.”

Finding pocket gophers

It’s important to pinpoint the areas where pocket gophers are hiding.

To do this, you’ll need to thoroughly inspect your yard, which means finding their burrow or tunnel system. Search newer crops, gardens, lawns, turfs, or fields.

The mounds are the giveaway. They’re usually 12 inches tall and 24 inches in diameter.

Pocket gophers can be deterred using some lightweight methods that don’t hurt them.

These gophers are often not appreciated for the things they do for the environment or local ecosystem.

These gophers perform some substantial environmental benefits.

For instance, they eat damaged orchards, wilting foliage, till the soil, and even clean up some insects (for omnivorous species).

For homeowners, gophers can be a seasonal nuisance. They do go away after some time, so they’re not a problem that you’ll have to deal with for a long time.

These animals also don’t infest in large numbers, so they don’t cause heavy damage.

They’re pretty much a neutral threat since they do clean up the garden even if they’ll uproot or destroy some plants.

Similar to bees, these creatures can be nuisances or beneficial in the garden.

Some are even of conservation concern, so you may not want to disturb them.

The Brush Prairie pocket gopher and the Mazama gopher are both protected species.

So you need to be careful if you plan to use mechanical, chemicals, or otherwise disturb their environment. Contact your local FWS if you’re unsure.

If you’re cleared for pocket gopher control, here are some ways you can deter them from your garden.

First, you’ll want to inspect your garden, field, or turf. Search near crops.

Look for piles of dirt or mounds so you can pinpoint the areas where they’re occupying. The dirt mounds will lead you to their tunnels.

The mounds are about 12” tall and up to 25” in diameter. They won’t have surface tunnels, which is one way you can separate them from molehills.

Once you find the mounds, use a broomstick to locate the tunnel. Shove the broomstick into the dirt to find their burrow.

Move a couple of inches away from the mound. Constantly probe until you break through the soil. Congrats. You’ve found the tunnel.

The dirt should give with no resistance. Finding their system is half the work. Next is to prevent them.

What do they eat?

They’re well-equipped for digging. They have large front claws for traversing tunnels, small eyes, tiny ears, and sensitive whiskers. The food is primarily why they come to your yard.

This all helps them move in the dark. They can also move quickly. With their large front teeth, they can be used to loosen soil and cut dirt. They’re quick, agile, and nimble.

Because of their long paws and powerful legs, they’re well suited for hunting a variety of food sources.

Unlike moles, which eat insects, pocket gophers only eat food. In other words, they’re herbivores. They mainly feed on roots, bulbs, or fleshy plants. Stems, leaves, and other foliage may be eaten too.

This is why people may want to get rid of them because they can be quite damaging to plants in the garden. Their tunneling can also cause damage to root systems.

Because they get enough water content from the plant materials they eat, they don’t need large sources of water. They can also hide in harborage if it’s too cold.

Where do they hide?

Pocket gophers are active all day, all season. But they may still be hard to spot because they spend most of their time hiding in their tunnels.

The Mazama gopher is easiest to spot because it spends a large amount of time above ground, especially at night or on gloomy days.

Pocket gophers will gather food from vegetation quickly and then go back into their tunnel.

So you need to watch from a distance when it comes out to forage.

Their burrow systems let them find food, rearing young, or storage of their harvest. They have escape tunnels as well so they’re hard to catch.

Gophers will plug any entrances in the system within just 24 hours. So they’re far from doing digging randomly. It’s a sophisticated network of tunnels.

What are they good for?

Pocket gophers are good for a variety of things so you may think twice about deterring them.

First, they’re good at moving a lot of soil. This serves as a very important ecological reason. Their tunnels will help vegetation grow by providing space.

Their waste also becomes fertilization for plants. So soil becomes more porous after being tunneled. It’s like a free soil tiling.

Soil quality often increases where gophers have stayed. The soil on the surface mounds created by pocket gophers also provides fresh seedbeds for plants, which can help increase the variety of plants in your yard.

Some larger predatory creatures will also prey on gophers like snakes, birds, or mammals.

Some reptiles like toads or lizards use their burrows as homes. As you can see, there are plenty of benefits to having pocket gophers.

Do they bite?

They will bite if provoked.

This is why you should never handle them without proper protection. They have sharp claws and sharper teeth.

Never touch or handle without proper PPE. Gophers will bite if in danger. They can also carry rabies.

Do they damage the garden?

If you see soil plugs, winter soil casts, mounds, or destroyed plants, you may have pocket gophers.

When they tunnel, they loosen the soil. They push the loose, dug soil to the surface like a bulldozer using its feet/head. This just goes to show how strong their paws are.

The excavated soil is pushed out of the exit. So a pile of dirt right outside is usually pocket gopher territory.

They can dig through hard soil, clay, and even mulch. They can create several mounds daily, especially when it’s wet outside after rains.

Irrigated areas like your garden where there’s plenty of water make it easier for digging.

Tunnels

Pocket gophers dig extensive networks right under the soil line. They’re about 5-10 deep.

Diameter-wise, they’re about 1-3 inches in length. It varies depending on the gopher size/species.

Sometimes, the nest and food storage area can be several feet deep. Drier soils often call for deeper tunnels.

Their system can be sloped, lateral, or short. They connect to the main tunnel system for pushing dirt out.

This is useful for having somewhere to clear the dirt when they’re actively creating more paths in their tunnel system. It also allows for escape pathways or forage access on the surface.

Soil plugs

Sometimes, you may come across these small plugs of soil. They’re about 1-3 inches.

They’re circular and easily come loose. These are made by the gopher.

hey use them to plug the exits along the burrow system or mounds. Vegetation may be clipped around the plugs where they forage.

The plugs are made because the gopher comes out for food or deposits. Then they go back in. They plug the exit they made to safeguard their network.

Pretty cool huh? You can use these plugs to discover how far their network goes.

Soil casts in the winter

Soil casts are created from previously backfilled tunnels. They fill their tunnels when they dig new ones.

The casts you see are the result of the extra soil.

The backfilled tunnels are full of soil, which becomes visible when the snow is gone.

Castings from the soil are always fragmented into small sections.

Only a small percentage of tunnels are backfilled with this soil, so the castings only represent a small section of the entire tunnel system.

Do they invade the house?

Thankfully, pocket gophers have no interest in infesting households. Since they’re a burrowing species, they have nowhere to hide inside. They don’t stay in your garage or crawl spaces UNLESS there’s an active tunnel burrow there.

Unlike moles, these gophers will generally stay in the garden away from buildings.

How to get rid of pocket gophers naturally

This section include various DIY techniques to get rid of pocket gophers without using chemicals. See what works for you. I suggest trying them out from the easiest to hardest to save you time/effort.

You’ll find that you can’t really force them out of your garden, but rather deter them.

Use fencing

Use physical barriers to protect crops.

Build them around your flower beds, gardens, laws, etc. Bury the bottom of it a few feet below the soil to protect the root systems of veggies or flowers.

Using physical fencing is also how you can prevent them from invading your property in the future. Combine this with planting fewer plants that are gopher bait.

Set up pocket gopher traps

You can buy pocket gopher traps at any hardware store.

These come in a variety of designs, but they generally work by using a spring-loaded mechanism that catches gophers when they come out of their burrows. Whichever design you choose, make sure you read the label.

Use it correctly because they can cause injury if not properly set up. This is often the passive, easiest way to catch those gophers. Look for humane traps that don’t have gases or poisons.

You’ll also want to make sure that it’s OK to trap gophers in your state. Simple, spring-loaded ones without fancy setups generally work. The weirder the gopher trap is, the more they tend to avoid it.

Here are two traps for you to look into (links to Amazon.com):

• Victor Gopher Traps
• GopherHawk

Use ultrasonic stakes

These are spikes that stick into the dirt above their tunnels. It emits a high frequency sound that basically deters them because it’s so disturbing. Humans and dogs can’t hear it, but gophers can.

The nice part is that they don’t require anything but your time initially in plotting them. Then they do the rest of the work. They can be powered by solar or battery. Solar is highly recommended if you have a lot of gophers. You’ll save time from not having to get new batteries or recharging.

For them to work correctly, they need to be positioned very specifically with correct spacing. This is why it’s imperative you read the labels for them to work properly. You should read the reviews to make sure that the product you’re getting the right product.

Here are some products to get you started (links to Amazon.com):

• Yardec Gopher Stakes
• Victor Stakes
• Generic Stakes

Relocate plants

Once you know where they reside, you can relocate important or vulnerable plants away from the mound.

Consider replanting them in raised beds or behind barriers, which we’ll cover in a bit.

Remove plants

If you don’t need plants, get rid of them! They’re just free food for gophers. This means doing regular yardwork in your garden too. Prune overgrown plants. Clean up grass clippings. Immediately remove foliage. Get rid of spent buds.

Keeping your garden clean will supply fewer plants to bring in creatures that eat them.

Use gopher-repelling plants

Some plants repel pocket gophers naturally.

Plants like lavender, rosemary, geraniums, catnip, skill, sage, pine, eucalyptus, Nandina, lilies, or salvia are excellent repellents. Pocket gophers can cause a lot of damage from burrowing, eating, and destroying plant roots.

Garlic is also proven to keep gophers away- that’s why they use garlic in odor repellents.

They eat just about anything. They pull plants down from the root and eat them in their tunnel.

Thankfully, you can plant plants that they don’t have any preferences for or even repel them due to scent or thorns.

Don’t plant their favorites

Similar to using plants that repel gophers, some bring them in.

Some of their favorites include the following:

• Roots
• Bulbs
• Fleshy portions of plants
• Potatoes
• Grasses
• Weeds
• Cover crops
• Herbaceous greens
• Seeds
• Ornamental shrubs
• Crowns
• Shrubs
• Tubers
• Vegetables

They’re not particularly picky, but tend to draw towards plants that offer lots of nutritional value for the work they need to put in. Starchy, dense greens are ideal. This is why they like roots. They’re chock full of fibers.

Avoid planting these plants to reduce pocket gophers in general. If they don’t have anything to eat, why would they nest in your yard?

Use spent coffee

Coffee grounds can be sprinkled around the garden to help repel gophers.

They dislike the scent of coffee, plus it helps add some nutrients to your soils. It also has a residual effect so you only need to do it once in a blue moon.

Coffee can keep other insects out of your garden too, including squash bugs, stink bugs, and even barn spiders.

Use garlic stakes

Gophers hate garlic. This is why manufactures use it in gopher repellents. You can either plant garlic or onion around the perimeter of your garden, or you can use premade garlic repellents (Amazon).

If your zone is suitable for garlic, consider planting plenty of it. Not only does it keep gophers out, it also makes a delicious meal!

Dogs or cats

The domestic dog is a natural predator of pocket gophers.

They can be used to chase them out of the garden. Of course, you’ll want to watch out for gopher retaliation, which can cause serious injury to domestic animals.

Farm dogs are the preferred choice, but if you’re not sure if Fido is up to it, don’t do it! The same goes for cats.

Consider predators

Pocket gophers do have a few predators they’re afraid of.

If you have these species native in your zone, do some reading on how to get more of them to your zone. Gophers won’t inhabit the area if it’s constantly disturbed by predators like:

• Bull snakes
• Rattlesnakes
• Weasels
• Coyotes
• Badges
• Hawks
• Owls

Build barriers

Use a metal cloth or mesh around the bottom of garden planters. This keeps them out so they can’t get to the roots of your crops.

This will prevent gopher foraging. Barriers will help keep them from tunneling into an area that has valuable plants.

Garden beds or flower beds should be protected by putting mesh on the sides, bottom, and sometimes the top if possible.

For raised planters, you can do the same on the bottom. They don’t need side support.

The wire is also an excellent and economical way to keep gophers away from roots. They can be purchased from hardware stores. Look for a 1” mesh chicken wire, light gauge.

Put double layers around the bases of your plants that are vulnerable to gophers. Leave some space so the plant can grow or else you’ll need to constantly reposition the wire.

There are also wire baskets that are sold specifically for this purpose. They have the mesh built in. Using a perimeter fence a few feet below the soil line can prevent pocket gophers from getting to your plant roots.

Note that the wire does rust over time. Some gardeners like to spray on rust-proof paint to help keep it from rusting.

Never dig in areas that may have utility or power lines. Always double-check with your local authority before digging.

Gravel can also be used to deter gopher chewing by surrounding vulnerable utility lines. Use 8 inches of coarse gravel 1” or bigger. This will stop them from chewing on your cables.

Some barriers, such as plastic tubes or plastic pots, can be effective at keeping gophers out of plants on the soil surface, such as conifers. You can use chicken fencing above the soil too.

Commercial solutions for pocket gophers

If you’ve tried the above DIY remedies, but none of them worked, you may want to consider using commercial solutions.

There are some leading products out there with high success rates. Read the label and use as directed. Get organic or green products if possible.

Here are some products for you to check out (links to Amazon.com):

• Tomcat Gopher Repellent Spray
• Tomcat Ready to Use Spray
• Kaput-D Gopher Bait

Consider hiring a professional if you can’t get rid of the pocket gophers yourself.

There are plenty of experts who have industrial solutions not available to the public. Contact your local pest control company for more details.

How to get rid of them permanently

If you’re located in an area where pocket gophers are natives, you’ll have difficulty completely getting rid of them.

The most you can do is setup your property to be as inhabitable to gophers are you possibly can.

This means using a combination of the techniques outlined in this guide:

• Set up fencing around your garden
• Plant fewer bait plants, plant extra deterrent plants
• Use secure plant potters, raised planters, etc.
• Use mesh to keep gophers out of plants
• Use commercial solutions if needed

It’s all about assessing the situation, then using the most efficient technique. Be persistent, but patient. That’s it!

Get rid of pocket gophers for good!

now you know everything you need to know to get rid of those pesky gophers.

Keeping them out of the yard is one thing, but deterring them from munching on your plants is another. You’ll have to work from both sides in order to get rid of them.

If you have specific questions about your pocket gopher problem, please leave a comment for suggestions.

If you found this guide helpful, please consider telling a friend who may get some value out of it!

The post How to Get Rid of Pocket Gophers Naturally (DIY) appeared first on BugWiz.

I’ve written a guide about how to repel scorpions before. This one is more for keeping them out of your garden and house.

There’s a lot of info in this guide. So bookmark it for easy reference. It’s not going to be instant to get rid of them. So you’ll have to be patient.

But with persistence, you should be able to see fewer scorpions in your home/garden.

Try out a few of the DIY remedies to see what works for you (while adhering to safety precautions). They won’t work for all situations, but should for most.

If you have questions, post them at the end of this page and I’ll try to help you out.

Warning: Scorpions will retaliate!

While scorpions would rather avoid confrontation with humans, they will retaliate if you disturb them. If you don’t know what you’re doing, do not try to handle or kill them.

Do NOT try any remedy or method without consulting a professional exterminator first. Never handle or approach scorpions without proper protective equipment.

How dangerous are they?

Scorpions can be extremely painful. They’re venomous, but the venom varies greatly in how strong they are. Pets and sensitive individuals are more vulnerable to the venom and are at risk for complications.

Out of over 1700 scorpions, there are about 25 species that are lethal to humans. While the number is small, you should never assume that the species you’re dealing with is safe to handle or eliminate.

This is why you should never go near anywhere that scorpions nest without proper protection and the advice of a professional.

If you don’t know what you’re doing, hire a pro.

Does killing a scorpion attract more?

If you kill one, it doesn’t usually bring more to your home. Scorpions are solitary creatures, so there are no other scorpions that nest nearby.

If you kill one, be sure to dispose of it properly because other pests may show up to eat it, which will then bring in other scorpions that eat said bugs.

What scent do scorpions hate?

Scorpions hate fruity or strong-scented herbs. Lavender and cedarwood oil both come to mind. You can use these by dipping a cotton ball into either one as an essential oil.

Then place the balls around the house or garden where you suspect them to be scavenging. This will instantly repel them.

Cedarwood oil can even kill them almost instantly if they’re exposed to it.

Other scents include the strong aroma that comes from herb plants. See the list in this guide.

What is the best natural scorpion repellent?

Lavender or peppermint.

Both of these are said to be effective against scorpions. It keeps them away without having to resort to dangerous sprays. This is one of the quickest ways to get rid of scorpions.

Try these first. 5-20 drops mixed with some water should be enough to spray around the household.

Dilute as directed. Read all warnings as some pets or people can be sensitive to these oils.

What does vinegar do to scorpions?

Vinegar is a natural scorpion repellent because of its strong, acidic scent.

It works well because of the low pH makeup of vinegar which makes scorpions want to avoid it.

You can utilize this as a repellent by placing containers of vinegar in your house or outside the perimeter. The scent of it will deter them.

You can also spray vinegar around the house in areas where you suspect them to be hiding or nesting. Vinegar is very effective for driving them away and keeping them out of your house.

Spray areas that they frequent outside the house. They hide in places where they won’t be found.

Vinegar is cheap, natural, and works well against scorpions, spiders, centipedes, crickets, and millipedes. It’s a very basic home remedy to get rid of scorpions.

Where are scorpion nests found?

Scorpion nests are usually found in dark areas such as inside holes or under debris.

Scorpions can’t climb vertically on smooth surfaces, such as glass, wood, or stainless steel.

They like to hide in hard objects like fencing, stone, etc. Scorpions generally live by themselves.

They’re solitary creatures. If you find multiple scorpions in one nest, it’s likely due to increased competition or limited resources in the area.

What does cinnamon do to scorpions?

Cinnamon, like cedar, is a scent that scorpions hate.

If you get some cinnamon powder and then sprinkle it around the house, it can limit their entry into your home.

Put it in key areas like doorways, windows, or foundational cracks.

The cinnamon naturally keeps scorpions out. You can also use it in the garden, but replace it after rain or wind. Cinnamon doesn’t kill scorpions. It only repels them.

But cinnamon OIL acts like a natural insecticide. Its strong scent helps repel them while being safe for most pets and people.

What kills scorpions instantly?

People will generally stomp on them or use a knife to pierce their shells.

This will kill them instantly, but it’s risky. Never do this if you don’t have proper protective equipment (gloves, clothing, shoes, etc.)

They’re quicker than you think, so don’t underestimate them.

Scorpions are known to be very hard to kill.

They have a tough outer shell that’s hard to pierce.

Most insecticides are useless against them. They used to live in harsh environments so your home is paradise.

How to prevent scorpions from getting in your bed

Putting horror movies aside, there are some surefire ways to help reduce the chance of scorpions getting into your bed.

Here are some general tips:

• Use elevated posts for your bed legs if possible. These are raised posts that the legs sit on top of. You can put it with some cedarwood oil spray to keep scorpions off. If they can’t get up the posts, then they can’t get into your bed.
• Put the feet of your bed in glass mason jars. This makes scorpions not able to climb up their feet!
• Keep the bed away from the walls.
• Keep the windows shut.
• Never let bedding off the bed. It provides a ladder for scorpions to easily climb up. Scorpions like beds because of the soft material. They can climb sheets, blankets, clothing, etc. Scorpions are excellent climbers unless the surface is smooth.
• Use blacklights (UV lights) at night. This will let you see them visibly in the dark.
• Spray cedarwood oil around the perimeter of your room.
• If you have pets, put them on raised beds.

What are scorpions afraid of? What scares them?

Scorpions are afraid of humans, believe it or not. They will avoid people if possible but will retaliate if you provoke them.

Because of this, you should be careful to disturb them when working in the garden.

When you’re cleaning up leaves or doing other work in the yard, you should be careful because they can be hiding under debris or leaf litter.

You can say that they’re just as afraid of humans as you are as much as you’re afraid of them. Scorpion phobia is real.

What is a scorpion’s natural enemy?

Where do they hide in the house?

Here is the most common place they tend to nest inside the household:

• Crawl spaces
• Kitchen cabinets
• Garages
• Bathrooms
• Ceiling fans
• Under or behind furniture
• Damp areas
• Houseplants
• Sink cabinets
• Shoes
• Beds
• Baseboards
• Cardboard boxes
• Toy boxes
• Cracks in the wall
• Crevices
• Windowsills
• Storage spaces
• Attics
• Showers
• HVAC units
• Laundry rooms

They seek out damp, undisturbed areas with plenty of moisture, food, and shelter. They don’t ask for much as they’re not picky.

You can use citrus or lavender sprays to help keep them away. Pour some bleach into your drains to prevent them from crawling up.

If there’s no food to eat, nowhere to hide, and no water available, they won’t nest. Some people say that peppermint oils work well too. So try it if no other essential oils don’t work for you.

Why is my house full of scorpions?

Scorpions may suddenly show up in the house because of environmental factors.

They’re attracted to shelter, food, and water. Some common themes that force scorpions inside the house include rain, extreme heat or cold, drought, competition, lack of food, lack of shelter, or seasonal changes.

This can force them to seek shelter inside the house, which can make it seem like a lot of them show up at once out of nowhere.

It’s also possible that scorpions may have mated and the clutch of babies is now foraging. Many of the smaller ecosystems inside the house can be suitable environments for them to nest.

This includes damp areas, clutter, dark or warm places, or humid environments. Debris in the yard makes your property favorable to them.

They love vegetation, firewood, or clutter in the garden. This provides harborage for scorpions, especially bark or firewood storage.

This is how you end up with Arizona bark scorpions. Be sure to store your firewood properly to keep it free from pests.

If you’re going hunting for them, wait until 11 PM. Then use a portable, bright blacklight. This will light them up so you can easily spot them in the dark.

Where do they hide?

They love to hide in dusty clothes, cardboard boxes, napkins, magazines, books, shoes, or other clutter.

Clutter is what they love. This is why keeping your house clean is important.

You need to keep it clean if you want to keep your house free of scorpions, amongst other pests.

If you find one scorpion, it doesn’t necessarily mean that there are more. These are solitary creatures.

So you don’t usually see them in groups. But if your garden is favorable to them, there could be many outside in the yard. One single change in the weather can force them inside all at once.

How do you keep scorpions away at night?

There are multiple things you can do:

• Use yellow porch lights to deter pests
• Set up passive scorpion traps
• Line the perimeter of your home with diatomaceous earth
• Spray peppermint oil around the home
• Use citrus candles
• Soak cotton balls in pure lavender extract then place them in key entry points
• Keep your house and garden clean
• Don’t leave food out overnight
• Wipe up moisture from sinks, showers, etc.
• Keep clothing, towels, shoes, and other soft fabrics elevated
• Use dehumidifiers around wet zones in the house

This should help you rest easier knowing that scorpions are less likely to forage in your house at nighttime.

Of course, it’s not guaranteed to keep them away.

If you’re afraid of them getting into your bed, read the tips for keeping them off below in this article.

When are scorpions active?

Scorpions are active at night. They’re nocturnal creatures.

This makes them hard to catch since they’re hiding in the daytime, which is why homeowners may not even notice that they have a scorpion infestation. They usually come out right around sunset.

When the sun sets, they start hunting for insects to eat. Timewise, this is around 10 PM nightly. If you want to check for them, do it around this time.

Scorpion season starts from March to October. If you see scorpions between November and February, you probably have a serious scorpion nest nearby. Traditional scorpion mating season is in July and August.

In what states are scorpions common?

Scorpions are not in all 50 states. There are some environments they can’t thrive in.

But a lot of regions have warm, dry climates, which is ideal for them. Some of the most common states  where they’re found are Arizona, Texas, New Mexico, Nevada, California, Alabama, Arkansas, Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, Alaska, and Utah.

What attracts scorpions in the house?

The main thing is food, water, and shelter.

Your home provides relief from the extreme heat outside. If you have standing water or leaks in your plumbing, this can bring more scorpions to invade your property.

Damp spaces with lots of clutter are perfect environments for scorpions to nest in.

Of course, scorpions also need food. Small insects, flies, and other prey are sources of food.

If your home has existing insect infestations, then you’re just providing scorpions a buffet to feast upon.

Get rid of existing food sources so that there’s no additional food for them to consume.

Some common insects that scorpions hunt include:

• Wasps
• Beetles
• Tarantulas
• Centipedes
• Reptiles (lizards)
• Birds (owls)
• Bats
• Shrews
• Grasshopper mice
• Spiders
• Bees
• Cockroaches
• Ants
• Crickets
• Rats
• Small insects
• Other scorpions (they’re cannibalistic and they don’t care)

If you have these around your home or garden, they’re prime meals for scorpions. Scorpions don’t usually feed daily unless food is scarce.

They eat every 2-3 weeks, so you may not see them come out. They’re opportunistic feeders, meaning they wait for their food to come to them rather than hunt. Unless they need to.

If you get rid of these, you may starve the scorpion and make it leave on its own.

What brings scorpions to the garden?

Scorpions love to nest in damp foliage, leaf litter, bark, straw, logs, hay, foliage, soggy materials, compost, trash, vegetation, mulch, soil, stones, and debris.

Keep your garden free of clutter, eliminate hiding places, and drain standing water. This will greatly reduce the chance of infestation in your yard, which means a reduction in them getting inside the household.

They hide in debris with tight spaces and high humidity.

So you’ll find them in tight cracks in clutter, which is why you need to get rid of nesting zones.

If there’s food available, they’ll be happy to nest. Did you know they can nest in palm bark too?

Types of scorpions

There are a few scorpions that are commonly found in the garden and hiding in yoru home. Here’s a shortlist:

• Bark scorpion
• Striped bark scorpion
• Tailess whip scorpion
• Striped tail scorpion
• Giant hairy scorpion
• Arizona bark scorpion
• Stripetail scorpions

How to get rid of scorpions naturally

The following sections include various DIY home remedies to repel, manage, and control scorpions. Feel free to skim through them and do what you can.

Start with the easiest, then see what works. Scale up from there.

Use plants that repel scorpions

There are many plants that deter scorpions naturally.

Thankfully, you can use this to your benefit. Since there are so many types, you’re sure to find something that can be planted in your yard.

Here’s a list of the most popular plants that are said to naturally repel scorpions.

See which ones grow in your hardiness zone, then plant them around the garden strategically.

Try to line the perimeter of your yard or house with them so you basically build a physical barrier of natural scorpion repellent.

Scorpions hate these plants:

• Citrus plants
• Cedar
• Peppermint
• Spearmint
• Cinnamon oil
• Essential oils
• Lavender
• Marigolds
• Garlic
• Catnip
• Fennel
• Chrysanthemums
• Rosemary
• Fruity plants

The most popular choice is lavender. You can scatter lavender flowers around window sills, sinks, baseboards, or any other dark, humid area with scorpion activity.

This will help keep them from nesting in those areas. Lavender can be purchased online for cheap. The scent is proven to repel scorpions. If it doesn’t work, try peppermint.

Clean up your yard

Keeping your garden clean.

Keep it free of debris is imperative to keeping it free of bugs. Scorpions find clutter-free gardens much less favorable to inhabit. Remove standing water, keep plants prune, remove leaf litter, and keep it clutter-free.

Never overwater or overfertilize your plants when actively trying to get rid of a scorpion infestation. Shady areas with water blockage or damp, tight spaces are key areas to watch out for.

Cool places during the daytime in extreme heat are common areas you’ll find them nesting. Never let plants touch the walls of your home.

They use bridges to allow them to climb up. Remove unnecessary items like decorative pieces, gear, lawn equipment, compost, mulch, or wood storage. Keep equipment secure. They can nest inside lawnmowers or even grass trimmers.

Your garden should also have proper drainage for water. They like to hang out in the shade. Be careful when you prune. They can make their way into your attic using them.

If you have vegetables or fruits, clean up any fallen ones so it doesn’t rot. This is how you get rid of them in the garden.

Keep your home clutter-free

Similar to keeping the garden clean, you’ll want to do the same for your house. This means cleaning up areas with junk.

They’ll hide in clothing, magazines, cardboard, cracks in walls or foundations, or holes. You’ll want to do a thorough cleaning and remove or properly store all possible objects where they can nest in.

Get rid of all objects by throwing them out that you no longer need.

Old equipment like vacuums, storage crates, or paper products is prone to them. Dust your home regularly. Don’t skimp over dusty corners or undisturbed spaces that accumulate dirt.

Be sure to clean cabinets, ceiling fans, baseboards, vents, grates, etc. Vacuum regularly to remove dust. This is how you get rid of them in the house.

Organize clutter

Keep your home free of clutter by properly organizing your storage places.

Scorpions love to hide in areas that are undisturbed, which usually is occupied by clutter.

Think of the places that are out of the way in your house. Cabinets, closets, drawers, or the corner with the junk.

Try to keep these spaces clean so there’s less clutter, which means fewer nesting sites. Use plastic storage bins with tight-fitting lids. Toss things you don’t need or use.

Seal your home

You’ll want to keep your home well-maintained to prevent them from getting in. This means doing regular home repairs like fixing window screens or repairing damaged cracks in the wall.

Seal foundational cracks. Replace vents or grills. Keep light switches, outlets, futures, and ceiling fans well kept. These are popular places where they get inside.

Use caulk to seal small cracks. The same thing should be done on the outside of your home. Don’t ignore doorways. They can get in from under it.

Use screens and seals on these entryways. Caulk is cheap and can be found at home improvement stores. Make sure the material is fully inside the crack. Use as directed.

Check for gaps around dryer vents and AC unit too.

Sprinkle cedar chips

Cedar chips are cheap. You can buy them in bulk to decorate your garden. But they also serve as a scorpion repellent. Scorpions hate the smell of cedar oil.

You can use these chips around your house and the perimeter of your yard. Sprinkle the chips on flower beds, sidewalks, etc. It’s a cheap but effective scorpion repellent.

Use yellow bulbs

If you have cool white lights in your garden, this brings in more pests.

Change all your garden, patio, or path light bulbs. Yellow light attracts fewer insects that scorpions eat.

If there are fewer bugs, then they may not be interested in nesting near your house. Regardless of the bulb color, you should turn OFF lights when they’re not in use. Yellow light doesn’t repel.

It just doesn’t attract bugs as much as white lights do.

The same goes for using curtains to block light leaks from your home.

Get rid of moisture

Leaky plumbing will harbor scorpions. They need a source of water to properly molt. Moisture loss will kill them, so they usually nest near a source of water so they can cool down and molt.

Get rid of water on the inside and outside of your house. Puddles, leaky faucets, damaged plumbing, or stagnant water are all perfect for scorpions.

Keep your home free of leaks. Check for plumbing issues if you suspect leaks. Use dehumidifiers if necessary.

Get rid of insects

As you know by now, scorpions hunt for insects at night. If you have a reliable food source (e.g. insect infestation), then it gives them all the more reason to nest inside your house or within the garden.

Depending on the insects you have in your home, you’ll need to take proper planning to get rid of them. If you know what bugs frequent your house, search this site for tips on getting rid of them.

Whether they’re in the garden or inside your house, you’ll want to eliminate them so they have nothing to consume.

Get chickens!

Did you know chickens are actually excellent pest control agents?

They work for free, too. If your neighborhood allows captive chickens, consider getting a pair.

They roam and will feed on bugs. This means less food for scorpions. They may also try to eat smaller scorpions too. Plus, they lay eggs!

DIY scorpion spray

You can easily make a natural repellent at home using 10-20 drops of lavender oil with 2 cups of water.

Pour into a spray bottle.

Then spray it around windows, doors, and other entry points. This will help keep them away with minimal effort. Lavender is proven to be an effective way to keep scorpions out.

Planting lavender around the perimeter of your house is also a great way to keep them out. They despise these plants.

If your yard has lavender in a perimeter, it’s like a physical barrier that keeps them away without using harsh sprays or poison.

Use essential oils

Similar to making your own spray, using some essential oils can help act as a repellent. Use lavender, cedar, or citrus essential oils. Mix with water as directed.

Then spray it around common areas where they hang out. This will repel scorpions naturally.

You can also soak those small cotton balls with essential oils and then put them near places where scorpions enter your home or yard. These oils are pleasant to humans, but nasty to scorpions, spiders, and other similar creatures.

But even though they’re natural, some pets or people can be sensitive to them. So read the label and do your research first.

The essential oil is too much to bear to their sensitive glands, which keeps them away so they don’t infiltrate your home.

Peppermint, neem, or cedar are excellent alternative oils. Spray the mixture on areas where they nest, such as crawl spaces, furniture, corners, etc.

Catch and release

If you want to get rid of scorpions but don’t want to harm them, consider using the catch-and-release method. Use protective clothing and gloves when hunting for them.

Go out at night using a blacklight flashlight. Pick them up with pair of kitchen tongs then put them inside a safe container. Transport it securely to an undisturbed habitat.

Be very careful if you go hunting.

They’ll retaliate if you disturb them. If you don’t have proper gear or don’t know what you’re doing, do NOT catch them. Use a passive scorpion trap instead.

Use traps

Burn citrus candles

You can put some citrus candles around your home or in the garden. This will repel them, which is good when they come out at night.

Spray vinegar

Vinegar can have the same effect in keeping pests out.

White vinegar can be mixed with water in equal parts. Spray around areas where scorpions frequent.

This is a cheap way to do it without spending a lot. This is a cheap, homemade repellent.

Use diatomaceous earth

Use food-grade diatomaceous earth to help dehydrate scorpions.

This is often sold as a dietary supplement. It’s a fine powder that’s made from diatoms, which is a type of algae. It works as a repellent for pests with hard exoskeletons (like spiders or scorpions).

They get small cuts in their shell which dries them out. DE can be sprinkled around room perimeters, baseboards, or other entryways. Keep people/pets away from it.

You can also use it outside in the yard, but be sure that reapplying it when it rains as water makes it useless. It kills scorpions over time, but they need to come into contact with it.

Dish soap

Dish soap has always been a fan favorite in the DIY community against scorpions.

Use eco-friendly dish soap with some towels to wipe down some of the surfaces in your home.

Focus on areas that scorpions may encounter. Don’t forget to clean cabinets, ceiling fans, or shelves. The dish soap will help keep the areas clean.

Scorpions hate the scent. You can also use vinegar or essential oils. Vinegar is acidic, which keeps them away.

You can also use apple cider or malt vinegar too. The point of this is to coat the surfaces with something that scorpions hate.

If your entire house is covered with it, they’re less likely to infest it. Focus on the entryways or batteries to the outdoors.

Use the spray or wipe method on windowsills, doors, and windows. These are common places that they use to get inside your property.

How do you permanently get rid of scorpions?

It’s not easy. If your in one of the hot zones, your home is basically bait for them. They’ll infest your garden every season because it provides a favorable setup for that.

The key is to make it less favorable. Use repelling plants. Spray essential oils. Keep your garden clean. You know. The basics.

Get creative. Make your home less favorable for inhabitants. But don’t assume you can keep them away for good.

Did you get rid of them?

Scorpions will infest the house if it’s favorable, whether you like it or not. The trick is to make your garden less favorable.

If your garden isn’t suitable for them to nest, then they likely won’t go into your home either.

Use the various methods outlined in this guide to repel them and get rid of the existing scorpions.

Be patient.

If you have questions about your specific infestation, please leave a comment. If you found this guide helpful, I’d appreciate your feedback.

The post How to Get Rid of Scorpions in Your House (DIY Guide) appeared first on BugWiz.

They love the warmer winters. These insects are the larvae of armyworm moths. They’re extremely hard to see once they burrow into the crop.

While infested crops need to be thrown out, there are some things you can do to save the remaining ones.

There are some simple DIY remedies you can practice to help reduce the population of earworms.

In this guide, you’ll learn about:

• Why earworms are in your garden
• Natural ways to get rid of them
• Preventing corn earworm infestations

If you have questions about your infestation, you can post them at the end of this page. I’ll try to get back to you ASAP (as usual).

Let’s learn about how to control, manage, and get rid of corn earworms.

What’s a corn earworm?

Corn earworms, also known as H. zea or Boddies, are caterpillars that can grow up to 2 inches in length.

They can be brown, orange, red, green, or even yellow. They’re marked with stripes that go down their back and are masters of camouflage. They can even be maroon or pink. Some are almost black.

As you can tell by their name, they’re a common garden insect that feeds on corn. This is why their colors match that of corn kernels so they can feast while in hiding.

They’re similar to their cousins the tobacco budworm, so many pest management techniques can be used between the two species.

They’re commonly confused with the fall armyworm, corn borer, bean cutworm, and tobacco budworm, so it’s important that you distinguish between the species so you know what insect you’re darling with.

The larvae feed on foliage but will feed on the nutritious tips of corn ears, beans, or tomatoes. They usually infest the crop from the tip, rather than the sides like the European corn borer.

What do they turn into?

The corn earworm is simply the larval form of the adult earworm moth. The adults are brown with patterned wings.

The earworms do what you need to worry about as they do the majority of the damage to your crop.

The moth doesn’t do significant harm, so don’t waste your time on them. The moths are about 1” in length from wing to wing. The front wings have a comma-shaped spot.

How to tell the difference between these caterpillars

The body of the corn earworm is covered by bumps that have black hairs coming out. The heads are also tan or dark brown.

Compared to tobacco budworms, you can distinguish them by checking out the shape of the mandible and the presence of micro spines.

Only the budworm has spikes on the bumps of the body with black hairs. The sorghum webworm is also a common insect that may be found with earworms.

Identification

These bugs are easy to identify if you know what to focus on. There are several species, but the most common are H. zea, H. armigera, H. assulta, H. punctigera, and other subspecies in the Helicoverpa genus.

For adults, look for the “comma” markings on the wings.

For larvae, look for caterpillars that have stripes going down the back. Segments are visible with a darker, tan head.

The worm looks very similar to a cutworm or budworm. See this video for more info:

Lifecycle

Corn earworms possess a similar lifecycle to any other caterpillar. The adult moths will look a place to oviposit their eggs in the springtime after they mate.

Eggs

Hornworm eggs are small, yellow, and deposited individually. They lay eggs in fresh corn silk.

Each egg is about the size of half a pinhead with no pattern in laying. The larvae will begin following the silk channel to the corn ear tip where they’ll eat the kernels.

Once they get inside the ear, the cone is destroyed. The eggs are tiny white and laid singly in the foliage on the corn silk. Eggs will get a brown ring on the top when they’re about to hatch, which takes about 2-5 days. Eggs are deposited in a row.

This is where they start seeking a host plant to infest.

Larvae

The larvae will hatch from the eggs. They’re green with black heads and tiny caterpillar hairs on the body. They’ll begin to feed on the corn ear tips. As they eat, they’ll burrow into the crop over time.

They get bigger until they reach about 1.5″ in length. Once they’re full size, they can be green, brown, or even pink.

Pupation

In the winter, the larvae are fully grown. They’ll drop to the soil line to pupate for the winter. If the temperature doesn’t dip below 25F, the larvae will turn into moths when temperatures warm up in the spring. Then they mate.

Signs of earworm damage

Corn earworms are voracious. They’re one of the most expensive and costly pests in the US.

For farms in areas where they can overwinter, they can do some real damage. The caterpillars will eat valuable crops and also stop plants from blooming as they feed on blossoms, buds, and fruit.

Earworms generally hide in grassy, woody, or agricultural farms.

On corn, the larvae will feed on the silks, which can stop pollination. When they get to the kernels, they’ll eat at the tip downward. This can also introduce pathogens into the ears. If the ears have not produced silk, the caterpillars will burrow into the ear.

While the larvae don’t generally move from one ear to another, they can cause extensive damage to a single ear. Larvae can also damage whorl corn by feeding on the leaves.

Caterpillars will burrow into fruits, feed for a short period, then continue on to other fruits if the fruit does not supply enough food.

Tomato is easily damaged by earworms when corn isn’t present or silking. Lettuce will be infested at the head.

These caterpillars will cause major damage to crops. This is why they’re such a nuisance in the garden, but a disaster in the farmlands.

Do they bite?

Yes, corn earworms do bite. Their bite can be very painful, so you don’t want to just dive in there with your bare hands.

They also produce toxins that can cause adverse reactions in humans and pets.

So always use PPE to protect yourself (gloves, jeans, closed-toed shoes, etc.) before venturing into the foliage that may contain corn earworms.

Never try to handle them directly. Consult an extent micro before you attempt any DIY pest control program on your own.

Did you know they like to bite so much that they even eat each other? Yes, they’re cannibals.

Where do they hide?

During the daytime, they hide in the crop they’re eating. The larvae often hide in the vegetation of the corn, tomato, bean pod, etc.

Once they get inside, it’s hard to see them. Sometimes you can see the adults foraging for nectar. Freshly silking corn is highly inhabitable for larvae to hide inside. The moths lay eggs on the silks of the corn. However, adult moths have been seen in the daytime foraging for food.

Did you know earworms have been seen to migrate over 400 miles? That’s crazy.

Both the larvae and the moths will hide during the day. Moths come out at dusk. When sampling for pests, scout in the early morning or early evening. This is the time to catch them while feeding.

What do they eat?

Younger caterpillars will eat their own eggshell for nutrients, then venture on to feed on younger, tender leaves. As they get older, they’ll move on to fruit. Corn earworms don’t only eat corn.

They love to munch on a variety of foods, such as:

Beans, corn, cotton, peanuts, sorghum, tomato, and ornamental (bedding and flowering).

Caterpillars will produce silk threads as they eat, so if you see a bunch of silk in a small area, it’s likely a feeding site for them.

You’ll also find their poop under their feeding sites, which look like small black pebbles.

They have chewing mouthparts so they can eat larger, stiffer foliage.

Adult moths have siphoning mouths to suck up juices for the plants.

What else do they eat?

This list is lengthy, but if you really want to know everything they’ve been spotted eating…

Corn earworms also eat artichoke, asparagus, cabbage, cantaloupe, collard, cowpea, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce, lima bean, melon, okra, pea, pepper, potato, pumpkin, snap bean, spinach, squash, sweet potato, and watermelon alfalfa, clover, cotton, flax, oat, millet, rice, sorghum, soybean, sugarcane, sunflower, tobacco, vetch, wheat, common mallow, crown vetch, fall panicum, hemp, horsenettle, lambs quarters, lupine, morning glory, pigweed, prickly sida, purslane, ragweed, Spanish needles, sunflower, toadflax, and velvetleaf, have been reported to serve as larval bait, ripening avocado, grape, peaches, pear, plum, raspberry, strawberry, carnation, geranium, gladiolus, nasturtium, rose, snapdragon, milkweed, Joe Pye weed, and zinnia.

Corn earworms have been seen on over 200 types of plants.

But their preferred plants are sorghum and corn. As you can see, they have a wide variety of plants they can eat. This makes them an extremely adaptable nuisance.

Damaged crops should never be used as compost because they’re infected. They need to be properly disposed of using insecticides.

Where do they come from?

Corn earworms are found all throughout North America. They can be found in other countries as well, so they’re not limited to just our geography.

In the US, earworms don’t like the colder temperatures, so they shy away from the northern states. They’re commonly found in Kansas, Virginia, New Jersey, Ohio, Texas, etc.

If the state is warmer, they’re likely going to be able to infest it. The worm overwinters depending on the location and the weather. In the Pacific Northwest, the earworm can winterize as far as southern Washington!

How to get rid of corn earworms naturally

This section covers some common ways to get rid of corn earworms at home without sprays or synthetics.

Note that some of these may not be applicable to your situation, so exercise common sense. Start with the easiest method then scale up if it works. If not, then try something else.

If you have any questions about your earworm situation, please leave your question at the end of this bug guide.

Sampling for corn earworms – Do you have an infestation?

You can sample the corn earner population if you’re not sure what kind of bug is eating your crops.

If you suspect that it’s earworms, there are a few ways you can catch them. Use a blacklight or pheromone trap. Both sexes will be drawn toward light traps, but only males will go to pheromone traps.

If you see more than 5 moths caught overnight, it’s generally a good signal that earthworms are present.

Manual removal

You can manually remove them using a pair of gloves with other PPE. These worms will bite and are toxic. Pick them off gently.

Then dunk them into a bucket of soapy water. This will kill them instantly. If you have a lot of them, use a sweep net or drop cloth to loosen them.

You can also shake the plant to get them off. Then let them fall onto a tarp or bucket of soapy water.

Make sure you use protective gloves and other gear. Corn earworms are poisonous and will emit a toxin that can harm humans and pets.

They can bite almost invisibly. NEVER handle corn armyworms if you don’t know what you’re doing or don’t have adequate equipment to protect yourself.

Consult a licensed professional exterminator before you attempt to manually remove them.

Blacklight traps

Adult earworms can be baited into black lights to kill them. This will stop their breeding cycle so you reduce the number of insects in the next progeny.

You can find black light lamps at hardware stores.

These are basically those zapper lights. They work because the adult moths will be drawn to the black light just like flies.

Prune infested crops

Homeowners can prevent most damage from earworms by removing the damaged parts. Cut the tips of damaged sweet corn ears.

This will completely eliminate the need for further action.

Utilize pheromones

Pheromones can be used to lure adult moths into traps that they can’t get out of.

You can find these moth traps at your local hardware store. They’re easy to use.

You just hang them near the infestation sites. The males will go in and then get stuck on some kind of adhesive. It’s that simple. Replace when necessary. Use as directed.

This is a passive way to get rid of the moths without needing to spend a lot of time or energy.

Commercial growers will use pheromone traps to monitor the presence of these moths.

Dispatch traps right before the first crop of corn begins to tassel. One trap is enough for a field, since moths will head in the direction of the prevailing winds.

This should be the southeast corner of the farm or garden.

Bacillus thuringiensis

Bt is a bacteria that can provide some relief to your crops. These nematodes are available commercially and you can easily apply them to your home garden.

They work by infesting the larvae as they land on the surface to pupate. The larvae will then be killed upon nematode infestation.

Of course, the caterpillar only drops after it’s done eating.

So the damage will be done. But it can stop them from pupating into the moths in the spring, which can instantly put a halt to their breeding.

Some of the newer Bt varieties differ in that they contain multiple genes for earworms, so they provide excellent levels of control.

Consider planting Bt varieties with multiple traits in later plantings since moth counts in the pheromone traps are often high later in the season.

Plant resistant varieties

Some varieties of corn have been created for warm resistance.

These strains generally have tighter husks and longer ears, which can stop larvae from infesting them. Some resistant varieties include: Country Gentlemen, Staygold, Golden Security, and Silvergent.

If you’re able to find them for sale, opt for these strains instead.

Row covers

Row covers can be excellent for protecting smaller crops from infestation.

You’ll need to find a cover that has a netting small enough so that moths and earworm caterpillars can’t get in.

The netting will let your crops receive sunlight, water, fertilizer, etc.

But they keep the bugs out. When you shop for one, make sure it’s the right size. And you’ll want to secure it well at the soil level so the bugs can’t get in.

Plant early

Some corn can be planted early because sweet corn that’s harvested before August will often have little damage.

Later planted corn will have major damage. Consider planting early varieties, a specialty in states prone to earworms like Indiana.

Trap cropping

This is an effective measure to get rid of these insects. The way it works is you plant other crops nearby that’ll bait the moths away.

Moths that are depositing eggs will seek out other crops like lima beans or tomatoes.

Weed-eating larvae will then migrate to crops. Try mowing the weeds first so they don’t have anywhere to hide.

In northern areas, you can plant or harvest early enough so that the moths don’t have time to deposit eggs.

But note that it’ll vary widely depending on the insect’s behavior and population density. They do the most damage late in the growing season.

Tilling the soil in the fall can reduce overwintering success in southern states.

Predators that eat corn earworms

Even though they do have some nice patterning and colors to camouflage themselves into the fruit, there are some that’ll gladly eat them up.

General predators will feed on their eggs and larvae, with over 100 identified species.

You should be able to utilize some of these predators to help control their population. The most accessible one is the ladybird beetle.

You can buy them online in bulk, then release them into the infested area over time.

Others include pirate bugs, green lacewings, damsel bugs, flower beetles, and birds. Some nematodes are also good at getting rid of them, such as S. riobravis or H. heliothidis.

Plant a surplus

You can plant more crops to offset the damaged crop if you need to meet a certain quota for harvest. Each season, you can estimate the amount of earworms that’ll infest your plants. Plant more to balance in out.

Corn earworms will eat flowers, foliage, or crops. So plant more if you rely on them!

Preventing corn earworms

If you’re growing host plants, corn earworms will infest them. You can help prevent corn earworms by doing the following:

• Prune any damaged of infested fruit/veggies
• Dispose of infested crop properly (don’t use it as compost!)
• Use insecticides (pyrethroids, carbamates, or organophosphates)
• Utilize natural enemies of corn earworms
• Implement a pest management program
• Use row covers or netting
• Set up moth lamps or blacklights

Commercial solutions

There are many insecticides that are suitable for gardens.

But you must read and follow the label instructions. Always use as directed and read the hazards. Use organic insecticides when possible.

If you have people or pets that’ll be in the garden, you need to pay extra attention to what you use.

If you’re lost and don’t know what to buy, look for insecticides that have the following ingredients:

• Carbaryl
• Bifenthrin
• Cyhalothrin
• Esfenvalerate
• Cyfluthrin
• Spinosad

Look for the active ingredient and make sure it matches at least one of the ingredients. These will kill earworms effectively.

They may be sold under different trade names, but just check the ingredients.

Further reading

• Corn earworm – Helicoverpa zea – University of FL
• Corn Earworm – UC IPM
• Corn Earworm – Wisconsin Vegetable Entomology

Do you get rid of the corn earworms?

You now have the knowledge to keep those earworms out of your garden.

While corn earworms can be very harmful to your crops, you can prevent or reduce their damage by utilizing these DIY remedies.

If you have questions, please post them using the comments section below. If you found this guide helpful, leave a comment as well!

The post How to Get Rid of Corn Earworms Naturally (Guide) appeared first on BugWiz.

That’s one of the signature behaviors they’re known for- they jump at threats.

Talk about brave. Right?

If you see one, you probably have many. But thankfully, cave crickets (also called spider crickets or camel crickets) are pretty easy to get rid of using DIY home remedies.

In this guide, you’ll learn about:

How to identify a cave cricket vs other crickets

• Why they’re in your house
• What they’re eating
• How to get rid of them using natural methods
• How to prevent cave crickets from infesting your home
• Specific control methods to get rid of them in the kitchen, bathroom, or bedroom

If you have questions about your specific issue, please leave a comment at the end of the page and let me know.

Sound good? Let’s send those cave crickets back to their, well, caves!

What’s a cave cricket?

Cave crickets are like giant crickets. They look nearly identical, but generally have striped hindlegs. They also don’t chirp like your normal housecricket.

They’re very good jumpers and will jump at you to scare you away when they’re threatened. They usually are found in the forest within caves, stones, or other similar environments.

Cave crickets are flightless and only come out at night. There are over 500 species.

Other names

There are lots of other common names for the cave cricket, including:

• Spider crickets
• Camel crickets
• Hogan bugs
• Cave weta
• Jumping weta
• Camelback crickets
• Rhaphidophoridae
• Sand treaders
• Land shrimp
• Sprickets
• Criders

Cave crickets vs camel crickets vs spider crickets

There is no difference between these three crickets.

They are all synonymous with each other. Camel, spider, cave, sprickets, and cave wetas are all the same insects- AKA D. asynamoral.

Identification

Cave crickets are like giant crickets that have been hybridized with spiders. They’re commonly found in caves, cellars, or other damp areas.

They’re tan in color with red-brown shells. But they can also be black or silver, depending on the environment.

Some have patterned legs that alternate between black and tan while others are solid. They have long antennae that are clearly visible.

Dark bands on the back legs are the signature pattern you can use to tell the difference between other crickets.

They grow up to 33m in length with no wings. They don’t chirp, but they can jump very high into the air. All camel crickets have an arched hump on their back, which is where the name comes from.

Lifecycle

Camel crickets have a lifecycle like any other cricket.

The baby cricket emerges from the egg in the spring as a nymph. It feels on mold spores just like adults. It’ll continue to feed until the winter, where it then enter dormancy until the spring. The adults breed in the spring. The female deposits eggs in the soil.

The babies look just like the adults but mini versions.

Where do cave crickets nest?

Cave crickets can be found in caves, leaves, stones, bark, or logs in nature.

When they infest your home, they usually hide in crawl spaces, baseboards, behind walls, kitchens, garages, basements, bathrooms, or bedrooms.

They hide anywhere that has minimal disturbance, has mold, and is dark.

Why am I seeing cave crickets in my house?

You likely have cave crickets because your home is a suitable environment for them to nest within. They don’t ask for a lot. All they need is shelter and food.

Sometimes the changing seasons will also affect their activity- they may migrate inside when it’s too hot or cold outside.

Competition from other insects or populations may also cause them to drift inside your house.

If your home is poorly sealed from the outdoors, they can easily infest it due to its small size. They’re very good at seeking out humid, dark, and damp environments.

Are cave crickets harmful? Do they bite?

Cave crickets are harmless to people. They don’t bite or transmit known pathogens. While they may try to scare you by jumping at you, they won’t bite.

They’re also safe for pets like dogs, cats, or even reptiles to eat (they’re actually a good source of protein).

But only if they’re true cave crickets- not that you should ever encourage your pets to feed on them solely.

So why are they dangerous then? Because they can damage your precious goods like clothing, fabrics, or carpet.

What do they eat?

Cave crickets generally feed on mold. This can come from mold spores or fungus that grows in wet and damp environments.

Think leftover food, bread, bark, leaf litter, etc. When they get inside your house, it’s generally leftover food scraps or moldy structural beams.

How to get rid of cave crickets naturally

There are a ton of home remedies you can utilize to get rid of cave cricket without chemicals.

Check out this list of DIY solutions to eliminate them before you use commercial products. You may be able to rid the infestation using just random household products.

Use a vacuum cleaner

Using a vacuum cleaner is a quick and easy way to clean up cave crickets. Even a relatively crappy vacuum with low suction can suck up crickets with ease. The hard part? Catching them.

As soon as you get close to them, camel crickets will detect a threat nearby. This makes them stop doing whatever they’re doing and wait until you go away.

You need to be quick about it. Using a vacuum with a long hose can be helpful. Since these are pretty big compared to the regular household cricket, you probably want to use vacuums that have big intakes.

Smaller ones may make a big mess at the entry point if they get stuck. Handheld vacuums are even nicer since they’re portable, don’t need cords, and you can direct the hose at cracks or crevices if they get into them.

Remember that once they hear you or the vacuum, they’ll jump. You need to be stealthy to get up to them first.

Then suck them up by powering up the vacuum and moving it towards the insect at the same time. It takes practice, but vacuuming is one of the easiest ways without using synthetic sprays.

Once you suck them up, release them outside or somewhere where they won’t get back inside your property.

Declutter

If you’re due for a spring cleaning, it’s time to do it.

Cleaning up your home is key to making it less favorable for not just camel crickets, but bugs in general. They need places to hide, breed, and feed.

If you get rid of common objects that they nest within, then it makes them less likely to infest your place. There are some materials that they prefer. You should take steps to get rid of these materials or move them elsewhere out of reach.

Crickets will feed on the same things they nest in.

So get rid of these materials if you want to keep the cave crickets out:

• Cardboard
• Fabrics
• Wood
• Food
• Furniture
• Couches
• Paper
• Newspapers
• Magazines
• Other junk

They like to hide in dark, damp places. So make sure that you don’t have these in said zones.

Use sticky cricket traps

These are also known as glue traps. You put them in places where you see camel crickets. They walk over it and they get stuck. It doesn’t matter if they jump.

The adhesive is too strong. They can be reused but will need to be replaced when no longer sticky. You can find these at your local home improvement store.

Or you can DIY it with some duct tape or two-sided tape. Both of these work well. Put them in areas like the walls or baseboards so they’re likely to walk into them.

You can also use bait to bring the cave crickets closer. You can use things like honey, or old bread, which they eat.

Clean the yard

Keeping the garden clean is just as important as keeping your house clean.

Camel crickets come from the garden as the infestation point into your property.

If your garden is tidy, it makes it less favorable for insects to reside in. If you keep your garden free of pests, then you won’t get any inside your house either.

So it basically all starts right outside your house.

There are some things that are prone to camel crickets, so keep these objects clean:

• Sheds
• Outhouses
• Garage
• Remove leaf litter immediately
• Clean up grass clippings
• Prune foliage regularly or remove them if unwanted
• Keep water drains clear
• Clean your storm gutters
• Keep dropped foliage or leaves clear
• Don’t let water pool in your garden
• Use well-draining soil
• Never overfeed
• Don’t overwater your plants
• Harvest your edibles

Keep your house maintained

Your home should be in excellent condition if you want to prevent pests from creeping in. This means doing regular maintenance on it.

If you haven’t gotten it checked out by an inspector recently, perhaps it can help with your pest problem.

There are some major areas that are prone to bug problems:

• Repairing weather-stripping around windows
• Ensuring that windows seal
• Fixing foundational crevices
• Repairing damaged walls or exteriors
• Replacing damaged grates or vents
• Keeping doors in good condition

Check them yourself or hire someone to do it for you. You can often get a free home inspection quote if you shop around.

Yes, it can be pricey. But at the same time, you prevent a lot of pest problems going forward, plus you save on insulation. This can add up over time for your HVAC bills.

Watch the weather

Cave crickets generally come inside during the summer when the weather is dry and hot. They like cool and damp, so it makes sense.

During this period, you should really take steps to safeguard your house so nothing gets in. if they do, then you’ll have a problem when they lay their eggs inside.

This is when you should be on the lookout for them to stop them from breeding.

If you can, then you can stop them in huge numbers. Fix up your house. Use natural repellents. Set up traps.

Get a cat

Did you know cats love to hunt more than mice?

They’re also excellent at hunting cave crickets. So if you have them as a pet, let them go wild.

Of course, you should make sure that the cricket you’re dealing with is indeed nontoxic and safe for cats to eat. You do 

Dehumidify

Cave crickets love humid environments. So make yours not humid by using a dehumidifier.

If you don’t have one, you can buy one for around $20 if you know where to look (online). Place it where the humidity levels are high in your house.

Think of places that are damp and dark like the garage, kitchen, shed, bathroom, or other wet areas.

Crickets will generally hide in areas with excess moisture content because they need it to breed and hatch from eggs. If you remove the moisture from the air column then you can reduce the likelihood of camel crickets nesting there.

It may force them to move out on their own. Fungus and mold are the favorite foods of crickets. If you get tired of the humidity, it can help get rid of their food source.

Sprinkle boric acid

Boric acid is a natural cricket killer that you can make at home. It kills cave crickets upon ingestion.

The key is to make them ingest it by sprinkling it on bait. You can use cricket gel that’s commonly sold at pet chain stores.

Sprinkle the boric acid on it lightly. Then put the bait somewhere that they frequently crawl around. They’ll eat the gel with the boric acid on the coat and it’ll eliminate the crickets over time, but be careful.

It can be dangerous for pets and sensitive individuals. Use as directed. Put it in places where it won’t be touched.

If you don’t want to buy cricket gel, you can use a homemade mixture bait:

What you’ll need:

• Honey
• Sugar
• Boric acid

How to make it:

Mix the boric acid with the honey. It should just be about 1 tsp per pint of honey, but you can adjust as needed. Put in one packet of sugar too. Mix well.

How to use it:

• Place a dollop of the mixture onto something that keeps it from staining surfaces. You can use disposable plates or trimmed cups.
• Put it where you see camel crickets active.
• Inspect it daily for feeding.
• Replace when gone or when the honey dries up.

Use soapy water

Place a bowl of soap and water mix. The crickets will seek out the sweet soap and hop into it. The soapy water has a strong surface tension which drowns the crickets.

Use a bowl that’s shallow enough for them to go into. Place these around the house to catch them passively without insecticides.

t’s a safe, DIY method to get rid of cave crickets. Keep pets/people away from it though.

Use cedar oil

Cedar oil is a concentrated essential oil that kills crickets instantly. You can put it into a spray bottle diluted with water and then spray them directly.

It emulsifies crickets upon contact. Be sure to keep it away from people/pets. Use as directed. You can even soak cotton balls with them and place them in strategic locations where camel crickets may cross.

Try diatomaceous earth

Diatomaceous earth is a white solid crystal. They’re tiny particles that easily pierce the hard exoskeleton of pests like cockroaches, silverfish, spiders, and crickets.

When the cricket comes into contact with the crystal, it pierces the shell and drains them of water. Over time, they’ll dehydrate.

Diatomaceous earth is harmless to humans and most pets. In fact, it’s sold as a supplement that can be taken orally.

But there are two kinds of DE- poo grade and food grade. Get the FOOD grade DE, organic if possible.

Sprinkle it around areas where you commonly see camel crickets:

• Baseboards
• Cracks
• Crevices
• Tiles
• Kitchen
• Bathrooms
• Garage
• Doorways
• Windows
• Under your furniture
• Under appliances
• Home exteriors
• Garden fencing
• Foundational cracks

Be sure to keep people or pets away from the powder so they don’t disturb it. Re-apply as necessary.

Pretend you’re building a fence that forces the crickets to walk over it.

You can line entire bedrooms with it. Apply around the entire perimeter of your house so they need to touch it to get inside like an invisible barrier fence.

Use natural predators

Other than your cat, did you ever think about using other creatures to help eat your cave crickets? Yes.

If you’re wondering what animal eats cave crickets, here’s a bullet point list:

• Mice
• Bats
• Moles

If you have any of these in your garden, find out how to bring out more of them. They can feed on the spider cricket population to help bring down their numbers.

Vinegar

Vinegar can help eliminate camel crickets in many different ways. This is just another amazing thing that vinegar can do, not to mention the other 1001 things…

Anyway, vinegar can be put into a shallow bowl for the crickets to crawl into. If they fall into it or drink it, it’ll kill them.

Vinegar acts like a natural pesticide that kills them quickly. You can also put it into a spray bottle by mixing equal parts water and vinegar and then spraying them directly. With an acidity of pH 2.5, it’s too much for them to handle.

They also hate the smell of it so it lingers around as a repellent. Plus, vinegar is safe for humans and most pets, which makes it more harmless than using some cricket spray.

Try molasses

Molasses can be mixed with water and then poured into a shallow bowl. Put the bowl where crickets hang out. They’ll be drawn into it but can’t get out.

Spray peppermint oil

Cave crickets hate the smell of peppermint oil. It can help in repelling them if used correctly. Pretty much any citrus scented spray will work, including lemon and lime sprays.

Spray it around the areas that they congregate to repel them naturally from your those zones.

Hire a pro

When you don’t have the time or energy to do it yourself, consider getting the help of a professional pest control company.

They often have those guarantees that they’ll continue to treat your pest problem until they’re gone.

The only thing to worry about is the compounds they use. Ask for green or organic options only. Consider hiring local pest control. They’ll appreciate the business!

Yes, it costs more money than doing it yourself. But it saves you time and it gets it done right. Weigh your time vs. money to see if it’s worth it or not.

How to keep spider crickets out of the house

Keeping them out of the house is your first line of defense, friend. If they can’t get in because your home is well-maintained, then you’ve got no cricket problems to worry about.

But if your home is poorly upkept, then you can expect them to simmer in through the cracks when the temperatures change outside.

Keep your home’s exterior in good repair, keep windows/doors sealed, check for cracks in the walls or foundation, and seal door gaps.

Here are some common areas that they infest and how to prevent them from infesting them:

Bathroom

Cave crickets are tiny. It doesn’t take much for them to infiltrate your house. They can get in through windows, doors, or even houseplants.

Once they’re inside, they’ll seek a source of food and then breed. If your home has favorable conditions for them (damp, humid, dark), they’ll gladly make themselves at home. The bathroom is a prime location for cave crickets to infest.

It has plenty of humidity after you shower, plus nobody is perfect enough to not spill water everywhere. So they drink that.

It also leads to microscopic mold spores which are their favorite food. They’ll hide under the sink cabinets, in the medicine cabinet, or just on the other side of the baseboards.

But you can take measures like setting up soap bowls or using boric acid, diatomaceous earth, or even glue to help catch them.

Camel crickets in the bathroom are a common sighting. But it’s also good because it conforms to a single place. Put some DE around the entire perimeter of the bathroom. This way, they need to walk over it if they want to get in or out.

Bedroom

The bedroom is probably the creepiest place for cave crickets to invest.

No one wants to see insects crawling on their bedsheets in the middle of the night. Or hear chirping. Or feel them jump around in bed.

The bedroom itself usually isn’t a moist area, but if yours is because it has bathrooms or windows, you may want to run a dehumidifier. Keep it clean and never eat or drink in your bedroom.

Additionally, you can line the perimeter with diatomaceous earth or use passive traps to catch those crickets.

If you have a cat, let it go wild so it can help you get those pesky crickets. But make sure they’re nontoxic first by verifying that it’s indeed the right cricket.

The bedroom is one of the easier rooms to get rid of cave crickets vs. the kitchen, garage, or bathroom.

If you have crawl spaces, be sure that they’re well-sealed so they can’t get inside. It also helps prevent cave crickets going forward. The more well-insulated your home is, the fewer pests can get inside it. Wouldn’t that be nice?

Kitchen

The kitchen is pretty much the same as the bathroom. Cave crickets want to get in so they can feed on the spores.

Since the kitchen is a place similar to the bathroom, you can expect these buggers to reside there. There’s plenty of water, food, hiding places, and darkness. They can hide in the kitchen cabinets, under the sink, or even in cracks between the tiles or baseboards.

With plenty of food scraps and plenty of spores to feed on, it’s no surprise they love to infest the kitchen.

You can take similar measures to the bathroom:

• Set up glue traps
• Use boric acid
• Sprinkle diatomaceous earth
• Run a dehumidifier
• Clean up water spills ASAP
• Regular wipe-down for food spores

While it’s not easy to get all of the crickets, this should definitely create a less favorable environment for these guys to hide in.

Commercial solutions

If you need to use sprays or pesticides, here are some tips to choosing the right one.

There are tons of different options you can choose, but you should opt for those that are organic or natural. These will be safer for your home and other people/pets if you have any.

You may find these products useful as a starting point. Make sure “CRICKETS” is listed as an insect that it works against (links to Amazon):

• EcoSmart Home Pest Control
• Terro Spider and Insect Traps
• Terro Multi-Purpose Insect Bait
• Ortho Home Defense Insect Killer

What is the best bait for cave crickets?

There’s a ton of DIY bait you can use to lure them into traps or out of hiding.

Some foods in your household can be used to bait cave crickets, including moldy bread, cheese, fungus, silk, cotton, wool, leather, dirty laundry, vegetables, pet food, fruit, bread, tile, and baseboards.

Anything that has mold or sweat on it will be eaten. So you can use it as bait to get those pests out. The majority of these goods can be found around your kitchen garbage.

Are cave crickets active at night?

Cave crickets are nocturnal insects, which means they’re active at night and hide during daylight hours.

This makes them harder to find since they only feed when you’re sleeping. They’re also good at listening to disturbances.

When they suspect an incoming threat, they’ll hide and keep still.

This can make them even harder to catch if they hide somewhere when you walk by. Even worse, they don’t chirp.

This can make finding them even harder, but at least it doesn’t annoy you with their sound, right?

Do cave crickets go away in the winter?

Cave crickets don’t go away in the winter. They just go into hibernation, which is why you won’t see them as much.

When spring rolls around and the temperatures pick up again, they’ll begin to breed. This is why you can’t rely on the winter killing camel crickets. It’s just a pause in their activity to be resumed later on when it’s warm again.

Does Pine Sol repel crickets?

Pine Sol is widely debated in the community whether or not it’s a cricket repellent that crickets stay away from because of the strong scent.

IMO, it doesn’t do anything for crickets. They may not be bothered by it and will continue to forage for food even with Pine Sol sprayed everywhere. But it doesn’t hurt to try if you’ve got a bottle handy.

Are cave crickets attracted to light?

No. They hate the light. They only come out at night to forage. In the daytime, they’ll hide so you can’t see them.

They also don’t chirp, so they’ll be out of sight. This is why they get the name “cave” crickets. They prefer dark areas in nature like woods or bark where it’s dark and damp.

Do cave crickets bite?

Cave crickets don’t bite. They don’t have fangs or teeth to bite, nor do they have a mouth large enough to do so.

However, they’re much larger than regular crickets, so cave crickets can really freak you out if you’ve never seen one.

They can damage clothing or fabrics with their poop or feeding habits.

Can they jump?

Cave crickets can jump as a self-defense mechanism.

It also startles predators. They will jump at you to scare you, so if you’re scared, watch out.

But they’re harmless, so don’t worry about being bitten. Just watch your surroundings. Don’t knock something over! They don’t have the teeth to bite you.

Further reading

If you need additional reading material, you may find these references handy:

• Camel Cricket – Home and Garden IPM
• Crickets – UMN Extension
• Camel Crickets – NC State Extension Publications

Cave crickets are no match

If you have patience, you can completely get rid of cave crickets in your household.

Especially by using the elements to your benefit. Use the cold reason to eliminate them then block them from coming back in the summertime.

Set up passive traps, use natural repellents, and manually remove any camel crickets you come across. Over time, the population should slowly diminish.

If you have specific questions about getting rid of these guys, please let me know by leaving a comment.

The post How to Get Rid of Cave Crickets Naturally (DIY Guide) appeared first on BugWiz.

The get the name “puss” from their color reference to the tiny Persian cat.

These caterpillars are OK to leave alone if they’re not harming your plants. It’s only when there’s visible damage to the plant foliage where pest control is necessary.

Always be careful when inspecting areas with puss caterpillars.

NEVER handle them without protection. Look before you reach. Always consult with a professional pest rep before doing any kind of DIY insect plan. Proceed at your own risk.

In this guide, we’ll cover some basic topics such as:

• How to identify puss caterpillars
• What they eat and why your garden has them
• Natural techniques for getting rid of Asp caterpillars
• How to keep them out of your garden

If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment.

Please be careful when you know there are asp caterpillars in the vicinity. They’re known as the most dangerous caterpillar.

Be careful! Puss caterpillars are venomous

These are known to be the most dangerous and venomous caterpillars in the US.

They look harmless, but they’re extremely powerful with their tiny hairs on the body.

NEVER touch a puss caterpillar without proper protection. NEVER handle them without tongs or extended-reach tools.

ALWAYS consult with a professional exterminator before you attempt to try any DIY insect control.

These caterpillars release a powerful venom that can cause allergic reactions, headaches, pain, cramps, or mausca. Keep people/pets away from infested areas. Don’t underestimate the power of their venom.

Avoid brushing against the foliage. Always wear long sleeves and pants with decent shoes. Never reach without looking.

If you don’t know what you’re doing, don’t do it. Get a professional’s advice first.

What’s a puss caterpillar?

Puss caterpillars (AKA Asp caterpillars) are the larvae of the southern flannel moth.

Scientifically known as M. opercularis, it’s the larval form of the adult P. opercula. It’s known to be the most venomous caterpillar on the planet because of its dangerous hair. This dangerous caterpillar is natively found all over the US, mainly in Texas or Florida.

While they may look colorful and fuzzy, NEVER touch one directly! Consult with a professional exterminator before doing any kind of pest control.

While the name sounds weird, a puss caterpillar is a common nuisance in the home garden.

You may have heard of them being referred to as Asps. They’re known for their furry bodies which can be orange or brown.

They prefer arboreal foliage, but may be found near gardens or landscaping.

Other names

You may have heard puss caterpillars called:

• Asp caterpillar
• Wooly slug
• Italian Asp
• Possum Bug
• Perrito
• Yellow Eggar Moth
• Southern flannel moth caterpillar
• Puss moth caterpillar
• Puss moth
• Southern flannel moth
• Fire caterpillar
• Woolly slug
• Opossum bug
• Puss moth
• Tree asp
• Italian caterpillar
• Megalopyge opercularis

The Asp refers to both puss moths and puss caterpillars. It can also mean flannel moths and flannel caterpillars.

So it’s like a 4 in 1 general definition.

Identification – What do they look like?

Puss caterpillars are orange, brown, or black. They can span a range of colors.

They also have a darkened head which is usually orangish but has a small dark fur on top of the darkened color. They have an elongated “tail” end with hair sticking outwards.

Asp caterpillars are known for their fuzzy bodies. Patterned, segmented body sections are divided by black hairs. The rest of the body is solid orange or brown. They can also be silver or charcoal.

They turn into moths called southern flannel moths. These moths are pretty gorgeous in color, but they’re the key to stopping the cycle.

They’re very similar in coloration to their larval counterparts. The moths are white, orange, brown, and black with large beady eyes.

While the moths may be alarming, the caterpillar is the real source of damage to your garden plants.

It eats and does nothing else but pupates in the winter to emerge as an adult moth in the springtime. Get rid of either to stop the infestation of these buggers.

These caterpillars can be other hybrid colors also. They can be yellow or even red-brown. The adult size of these bugs averages 1.3 inches.

The entire body is covered with these hairs. Each time it grows, the hairs get longer. So be careful.

You can tell how old a puss caterpillar is by its hair length. They can get pretty lengthy and will be found hiding on leaf surfaces.

It’s important to properly identify the caterpillar so you know that the techniques you use aren’t going to waste.

These caterpillars are pretty easy to differentiate from others. If you need help, please leave a comment with a picture of the pest for identification.

Lifecycle

Puss caterpillars come from adult flannel moths, which deposit eggs in the leaves of host plants. The caterpillars eat and molt.

Eventually they pupate into moths during the winter. The adult moths emerge in the springtime to repeat the cycle of caterpillars.

Where do they come from?

Puss caterpillars are native to Florida, Arkansas, New Jersey, Texas, Louisiana, George, Mississippi, South Carolina, Tennessee, Oklahoma, Kentucky, and other southeastern zones.

These are the regions that have the highest number of puss caterpillar infestations. They prefer warmer, humid zones. This is why they’re called the southern moth. Makes sense right?

What do they eat?

Asp caterpillars feed on a variety of foliage. But they do have their favorites:

• Citrus trees
• Basswood
• Hackberry
• Sycamore
• Dogwood
• Cherry
• Apple
• Maple
• Plum
• Elm
• Oak
• Veggies, ornamental plants, weeds, grass, shrubs, and trees

If you avoid planting these types of plants, you can reduce the chance of infestations.

Where do they hide?

The puss caterpillar will hide in elms, oak, citrus, or sycamore leaves. These are their preferred host plants.

Sometimes, they can fall into the garden and infest local plants. Since they’re so high up, they’re often hard to see. They hide inside the bark so they can be hard to see.

These caterpillars will live, feed, and breed on the same host plants.

When looking through the foliage for puss caterpillars, use a long, sturdy object to move plant material.

Do not use your bare hands. They hide in leaves within plants, bushes, or trees. If you happen to see puss caterpillars, don’t touch them. They usually hide on leaf surfaces while they feed.

If you see visible flannel moths, you can expect that eggs are hiding somewhere nearby.

Look through your ornamental plants or bushes. If you have elm, ivy, rose bushes, oak, citrus, or other taller foliage, check those first. Inspect your garden carefully.

Look through the landscaping and the soil line because they often fall from heights and will crawl around in search of new places to hide or feed.

When are they active?

These moths are active during the summertime and late spring. The moths emerge from the trapdoor in the cocoon that’s hanging off leaves or branches.

They come out and buzz around to lay hundreds of eggs in foliage. While they have preferred host plants, they can deposit eggs in any plant. Over the summer, the puss moths will emerge to feed on your plants.

Up to 2 generations may be spawned during this time. Southern flannels are found in the fall too.

In winter, southern flannel moths and puss moths will spin cocoons. The color of it varies depending on the caterpillar, which uses its hair to weave the cocoon. It’s usually brown or yellow.

Signs of damage

Asp caterpillars don’t do much damage. But if they’re prevalent, your foliage may suffer some damage.

As you know, the larvae need to eat enough so they can molt and go through a series of instars.

This makes it get bigger until it’s ready to pupate. For established plants, they pose very little threat to them. For younger plants, puss caterpillars can be dangerous.

There are some things you should look for that are a sign of damage:

• Visible puss caterpillars at the base of trunks, branches of shrubs, or foliage
• Cocoons hanging off leaves in the fall
• Flannel moths buzzing around the garden
• Damaged leaf edges
• Holes in leaves
• Egg clusters on foliage

What do they turn into?

Puss caterpillars turn into adult flannel moths. These moths are responsible for mating and then depositing eggs in your plants.

They emerge in the springtime following the winter. The cold doesn’t kill the puss caterpillars, so don’t assume that the winter will get rid of them.

How to get rid of puss caterpillars naturally

Here’s how you can get rid of those puss caterpillars using DIY home techniques.

Remember to always look before you reach, wear protective gear, and using a stick to reach- never your bare hands.

Consult with a professional before starting any DIY pest control program.

Encourage natural predators

Use the power of natural predators to help kill off some of the caterpillars.

With the help of parasitic wasps, tachinid flies, lacewings, or stink bugs, can help feed on the puss caterpillars to reduce their numbers.

Check which of these buggers are in your hardiness zone and do some reading on how to bring in more of them to your garden. They may help with the puss caterpillar population.

Dunk them into a bucket

This doesn’t mean you use your hands to pick them off.

It means getting a bucket and filling it up with soapy water. Then place it right under the puss worms and then shake the plant to loosen them. They’ll fall into the bucket.

Wear protective gear. Use a stick or something to shake the plant. Don’t use your bare hands. You never know where they’re hiding. The soapy water can kill the puss caterpillars easily.

If you find that they’re not being affected, try increasing the volume of soap you use.

You can also dunk the entire branch with foliage into the bucket if you want. This is a quick way to sanitize the branch. 1 tsp of dish soap to a gallon of hot water is enough to quickly drown them.

Dispose of the puss caterpillars carefully. Dispose of the bucket too. Consider it contaminated after each use. Or solely designate it for caterpillar venom only. Do NOT use it for feed or edibles.

Spray them down

Kill the caterpillars with a spritz of rosemary or cedar oil. Use a small bottle and spray them when you see them. They hate these oils. It burns them.

Use Bt

Bacillus thuringiensis is a completely natural and organic bacteria that are very effective in killing caterpillars. You can often find it in your local nursery.

For most Bt, you use it by gently dusting it into the plant leaves throughout the season. The Bt will wipe out the puss caterpillars. Use as directed. Don’t use near butterflies because it’ll kill beneficial species too.

Plant host plants farther from your house

One way to reduce the number of puss moths is to simply plant foliage farther from your household.

Don’t plant them along the edges or landscape zones of your house. Instead, plant them along a fence or other zones that are farther.

If you have shrubs near the entrance of your home or along the walls, remove them. This will significantly reduce long wanderer puss caterpillars coming inside your house.

Remove host plants

If you don’t care for the plants that they’re investing in, remove them entirely.

This will completely get rid of their source of food, so they have no reason to infest your garden anymore. In rural zones, this may not work if they have nowhere else to deposit eggs.

They’ll use your garden’s foliage for feeding or breeding. If you choose to remove host plants, do it in early spring before the flannel moths have a chance to lay eggs in them.

Puss caterpillars will be gone by the spring, so you can also use that period to remove the plants. You want to remove plants when the puss caterpillar population is low or else it’s too dangerous.

Regardless, always use protective equipment. Do NOT assume there are no caterpillars. Look before you reach for plants.

Remove the cocoons

If you come across cocoons hanging off branches in the winter, you can remove them and dispose of them in soapy water to kill the caterpillars.

Use protective gloves because you never know where they could be hidden when you’re reaching out. Then use a pair of tongs to remove the cocoons.

You can prune the entire leaf if you wish. The cocoons should be either soaked into dish detergent or relocated to another part of your property. This way, they’re less likely to intrude.

Use a vacuum

If you have a shop vac, you can use it to vacuum those bugs. Use a disposable bag to quickly get rid of them.

You can put the bag in the sun to kill them. Consider the entire thing to be very contaminated so get rid of it accordingly.

Shop vac makes quick work of caterpillars hiding on the leaves. Wear protective gear and assume the vac to be contained after use.

Keep shrubs and trees trimmed

Foliage that’s left to the elements will become too dense. This can create an environment that puss caterpillars favor.

Clean up your garden by doing the following:

• Remove unwanted plants or shrubs
• Prune foliage regularly
• Remove leaf litter immediately
• Don’t overwater or overfeed plants
• Ensure water is well draining and doesn’t pool
• Keep shrubs trimmed
• Mow grass
• Clean up grass clippings
• Get rid of water features

Doing these basic practices will keep puss caterpillar occurrences low. They love overgrown jungles to hide and feed in. don’t let that be your garden.

Keep your house maintained

If you want to keep puss caterpillars from getting into your house, make sure that your house is well-maintained.

This means using things like weather stripping around windows and blocking under door gaps. Repair holes or cracked siding where they can get in.

Fix damaged foundational cracks or other gaps. This will help keep the caterpillars out.

Neem oil

Sprays that contain neem oil (or just pure extract) are a good way to kill caterpillars.

It also has less impact on beneficial insects or predators. If you choose to use neem oil, dilute it accordingly. Spray in the evening- never in direct sunlight because it can burn your plants.

Wash off excess oils on the leaves. Neem oil kills caterpillars. It also has a residual effect by leaving a coat on the foliage afterward.

Reapply after rain or wind. Some people or pets may be adversely affected by neem, so use as directed. Read all warnings. Neem can be especially harmful to cats or animals that frequent your garden.

How to prevent puss caterpillars

Puss caterpillars are seasonal pests. If you remove their source of food, you reduce the possibility of infestation.

They prefer taller foliage, so if you can remove elm, oak, dogwood, sycamore, cherry, maple, plum, apple, orange, lemon, lime, citrus, etc. from your garden, they may be deterred since there’s nothing to eat.

Unless you care about these plants, remove them. If they just sit there serving no purpose, they host a lot of food for puss caterpillars to consume. No food, no bugs.

Set up an integrated pest management plan

An IPM can help you deal with caterpillars and other similar bugs in general like woolly bears.

Setting up a garden that’s unfavorable to them, strategically placing repellents, and getting rid of existing caterpillars can all contribute to a pest-free garden.

Take steps to discourage moths from settling in your garden. If you keep these guys out then you have no issues with caterpillars.

Physical removal, bringing in natural predators, and using natural repellents is a good combos.

Use natural pesticides as a last resort to kill them and bring their numbers down.

Commercial remedies

If none of the above natural remedies work out for you, consider using pesticides to kill them with synthetics.

If you have a lot of puss caterpillars gobbling up all your foliage, you may want to use a spray to do the job

But if you have edibles, pets, or people that frequent the yard, consider opting for organic insecticides only.

Look for sprays that contain the following compounds that work well for caterpillars:

• Lambda-cyhalothrin
• Cypermethrin
• Permethrin
• Bifenthrin

Note that this may harm beneficial pollinators or insects, so only use it as a last resort. Follow the directions on the packaging.

Further reading

You may find these additional references useful:

• Puss Caterpillar (Larva) – UFL
• Puss Caterpillar or “asp” – Field Guide to Common Texas Insects
• “Most Venomous Caterpillar” Spotted in Florida – Wildlife Florida

Get rid of those puss caterpillars

Asp caterpillars are usually harmless and a pleasure to have in the garden since they bring those pretty asp months later on.

Getting rid of them is a risky endeavor because of their venom. Always start with basic techniques first before you move on to the synthetics, but consult with professionals if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Use protective equipment (sleeves, goggles, pants, rubber gloves, broad hat, etc.). Look before you reach into the leaves. They can be hiding just waiting to give you a scare.

Never touch foliage without checking first or using an extended device. Using these natural solutions is preferable for smaller infestations.

Remember that most puss caterpillars are harmless, so you can ignore them if you can. But if not, then try these greener methods before bringing out the sprays.

The post How to Get Rid of Puss Caterpillars Naturally (Ultimate Guide) appeared first on BugWiz.

(And they’re not.)

But the thing is while the moths don’t do any damage, the larvae do. If you’ve seen how they eat, you’d know.

Keeping the adult moths away will help keep the caterpillars away too. So this is why you may want to do this.

In this guide, you’ll learn about:

• Why you hummingbird moths are in your garden
• Whether they’re dangerous or not
• Identifying hummingbird moths
• Getting rid of their larvae
• How to keep them away naturally
• And more

If you have questions, please let make now.

OK, let’s dive in and learn how to keep these moths out of your yard.

What’s a hummingbird moth?

Hummingbird moths are a unique species of moth for two reasons: they have special markings on their back that give them their nickname “white-lined sphinx moth.”

They also feed from plant flowers like hummingbirds. So they’re basically like mini hummingbirds, but just not as graceful.

They can be found fluttering from Texas, Florida, Colorado, Alaska, Maine, Arizona, and more.

They belong to the Sphingidae family and the Hemaris genus. They’re found in the US, Canada, Europe, and Asia.

These moths aren’t usually dangerous to your garden plant varieties, but once they mate and then lay their eggs, their offspring larvae are harmful.

The larvae are small caterpillars that’ll consume your plants like crazy because their only task is to feed.

Getting rid of these moths can keep your plants safe from their larvae. You can either get rid of the moth or get rid of the caterpillar. Both are the same insect.

Ideally, the moth is much easier to control compared to the larvae because they can hide very well while they feast on your foliage.

Other names

Hummingbird moths have multiple aliases.

You may have heard them called the following names:

• White-lined sphinx moth
• Snowberry clearwing
• Hummingbird clearwing
• Sphinx moth
• Hawk moth
• Common clearwing
• Tersa Sphinx moth
• Titan sphinx

Identification

Hummingbird moths are easy to discern from other similar insects like miller moths, sod moths, or carpet moths.

Think of a cross between a small bird and a bee. They have furry wings with powerful muscles that allow them to hover in place just like a hummingbird.

There are other 17 identified species of these moths, each varying in looks and habitat. Because of their size, they can be mistaken for actual hummingbirds.

The wings can be yellow, white, black, orange, tan, black, or silver. They range from 1-2 inches in length, while hummingbirds are 3-4 inches.

They have large gray hairs with feathers and rust markings or patterns on their body. They’re distinctly smaller than birds, but only by a few inches.

Relative to other moths, the hummingbird moth is huge. Its wingspan can range up to 3 inches across. It has a brown with white speckled abdomen and brown forewings with orangish bodies.

This month is very easy to identify when feeding because it’ll hover around just like hummingbirds, bees, or even birds.
The proboscis can be up to 5 inches long.

Lifecycle

Hummingbird moths will emerge from eggs in the spring then feed for a few weeks as a caterpillar. Then when they’re large enough, they pupate into moths.

The adult comes out of the chrysalis and then drinks nectar from flowers. It’s a very straightforward lifecycle just like most caterpillar/moths have.

If you’ve done the whole science kit thing in school, you know how it works.

What do they eat?

Hummingbird moths love to suck the sap from a variety of plants. Some are preferred over others.

If you have any of these plants in your garden, you may see them feeding:

• Dogbane
• Honeysuckle
• Cherries
• Plums
• Hawthorn
• Bee balm
• Lilac
• Liatris
• Lantana
• Plant phlox
• Butterfly bush
• Butterfly weed
• Coneflower
• Joe Pye weed
• Jasmine
• Morning glories
• Trumpet plants
• Moonflower
• Echinacea
• Petunia
• Verbena
• Zinnia
• Viola
• Buddleia
• Nicotiana
• Jasminum
• Centranthus (valarian)
• Primula

Other native wild plants are trumpet-shaped or have nectar that’s easy to access for their proboscis.

Where are they found?

The habitat of these moths is commonly where flowering plants are present. You’ll find them near sources of water with plenty of colorful flowers to feed on.

You’ll find them in areas that are quiet with minimal disturbances. You often won’t see them in the daytime unless you actively go hunting for them.

They avoid the light, so if there’s an overcast day, you may see them actively feeding. Some states are more populous with these pests, such as Colorado.

There are over 12 species of the 17 found just in CO. They love to hove around the state because of the many miles of heavenly forested areas.

They also can migrate to nearby states such as Texas or Florida. Hummingbird moths skype themselves, which is good for most gardeners.

People usually aren’t even aware of them because of their nighttime feeding habits.

They also don’t like areas that are populated because they prefer quieter environments with solitude.

Because of this, they won’t really invade your garden. Even if they do, they don’t pose a threat to your plants unless there are a lot of them because they’ll lay hundreds of eggs for their young.

This will lead to many caterpillars which will eat up your plants.

While moths aren’t an issue, the larvae will cause vast amounts of damage to your foliage, especially seedlings which can be killed by the feeding.

Note that there are some hummingbird moths that are active during the day.

Where do they come from?

Hummingbird moths are migratory creatures so they likely came from somewhere that had a very cold winter.

They migrate to a warmer region when necessary. You may only see them seasonally if you’re in a state that has winters with temperatures above 65F.

Any host plant that they can sap nectar from will do. These moths won’t stay in zones that are cold. They’ll leave in search of warmer ones.

Where do they hide?

Hummingbird moths don’t hide. They just hover around gracefully as they feed on the pollen from flowers.

They can be found in the garden, near shrubs, or other flowering foliage that is colorful. They can be found around their preferred host plants in midair.

But they usually come out at night as they’re active during this time (nocturnal). These moths are usually harmless as they help pollinate your veggies and fruits.

But if you want to stop them from laying eggs that breed caterpillars, you’ll have to do something about them to keep them out of the garden.

They feed with their proboscis (the tube) that they curl when not in use. They can help pollinate plants.

But while the moths aren’t a problem, the caterpillars are. Hummingbird moths lay eggs in clusters of 200-300.

The larvae will consume your plants until they pupate into moths during the winter and emerge later in the springtime.

The larvae are specifically called tobacco hornworms or tomato caterpillars.

Perhaps you’ve heard of them?

What do they turn into?

They turn into caterpillars. Specifically, tobacco or tomato hornworms.

These moths will pupate during the winter and then emerge in the spring as their women counterparts which does all the damage. While the moth is harmless, the worm isn’t.

The tomato caterpillars are voracious eaters and will damage plants in a short time. Tomato hornworms are very similar to their cousin’s tobacco hornworms.

These caterpillars will destroy your edibles. These guys eat everything. Tomato, eggplant, and even potato or pepper.

The larvae are green which makes them hard to see while they feed.

Are they poisonous?

No, these moths aren’t poisonous and won’t bite. They’re also harmless to pets.

The only thing to note is that if you smack them, they’ll leave some powdery material behind which can stain clothing.

The most dangerous thing about hummingbird moths is their offspring larvae.

Hummingbird moth damage

Hummingbird moths don’t cause any damage from regular feeding.

They’re considered to be a beneficial pollinators for your plants because they help get the pollen between male and female flowers.

Even if you have a ton of them swarming at night, they likely won’t cause any serious damage to your flowers.

The larvae are what do the damage!

Signs of infestation

There are a few obvious signs that hummingbird moths are present.

Look for the following clues to see if you have these moths in your garden:

• Visible hummingbird moths feeding on foliage
• Fluttering moths or “hummingbirds” in the night
• Visible caterpillars or hornworm damage to the leaves
• Larvae hiding under the leaves, behind stalks, or in the foliage
• Visible cocoons when tilling the soil
• Damaged leaves with torn edges and holes in the foliage
• Visible caterpillars anywhere on the plant
• Egg clusters on the bottom of leaves

If you see hummingbird moths feeding on a host plant, chances are that they’ll deposit eggs there too.

How to get rid of hummingbird moths naturally

Hummingbird moths aren’t a real threat for most gardeners, but if you want to discourage them from feeding and then later laying eggs in your yard, you’ll want to formulate a plan to get rid of them.

The following techniques are natural or organic ways to keep them out of your garden.

You’ll probably plant fruits or veggies, which means you want to avoid introducing synthetic poisons to your plants.

Besides, it’s not a problem to get rid of these guys because they’re rarely an issue in the first place. So let’s dive in.

Use moth repelling plants

There are some plants that can help repel hummingbird moths.

Consider introducing these to your garden for a completely natural way to keep moths out.

Plants that emit strong odors or aromas are especially useful to repel hummingbird moths.

Depending on your hardiness zone, see which one of these power plants can be planted with ease:

• Lavender
• Basil
• Mint
• Lemongrass
• Pontius
• Onions
• Garlic
• Thyme
• Eucalyptus
• Marigolds
• Rosemary
• Nasturtiums
• Lemon thyme
• Chrysanthemums

As you can see, there are plenty of options to choose from. If you’re planting herbs or edibles, these may pair well with what you’ve got going on already.

Again, be sure to check your hardiness zone against the plants you’re considering growing.

Don’t make it hard on yourself by planting something way out of your zone.

Sticky traps

Use sticky traps to help catch the caterpillars. Wrap your foliage or stems to help keep the larvae from crawling up the stems. While it doesn’t do anything for the moths, it can passively get rid of the larvae.

Remove eggs

Prune off foliage that has visible eggs. This can get rid of larvae in huge numbers, as each egg cluster can have upwards of 300 eggs.

They’re visible to the naked eye, so just remove the leaves and dispose of them (soapy water) to kill the caterpillars.

Plant netting

You can set up row covers or plant netting to help keep moths out.

These are those plant covers that are made to keep birds and bugs out. They still let your plants receive sunlight and water but prevent larger pests from getting through.

Check the grid size so you can ensure the hummingbird moths can’t get in.

Of course, if there are caterpillars present, they can sneak through or dig under the soil line to get to the goods.

Here’s an example of how they work.

You can find them in all sorts of materials and sizes. Everything from plastic to thread is available.

Or you can cut them to size as needed. This is one of the easiest and cheapest natural remedies.

The drawback? It’s often hard for beginners to set it up correctly.

Bugs still get through the gaps because it wasn’t drawn to the soi line or the size is wrong. It also prevents pollinators from getting through like birds and bees.

You have to remove the netting in the daytime so beneficial pollinators can pollinate your plants. But then put it back on at night so the hummingbird moths can’t get inside.

Otherwise, it’s a cheap, easy, and quick way to do it. Try this before you use commercial sprays or chemicals on your plants. It’s often not necessary!

Nylon stockings

If you don’t want to spend on plant netting, consider nylon stockings.

These can be stretched out over your smaller plants like herbs or seedlings. It still lets them generate energy (photosynthesis) while keeping bugs out.

Zapper lights

Bug zapper lights (those blue lights) can help deter moths. Just like how they say “moths to a flame,” the same rings true for these pest control lights.

Given that hummingbird moths are actively foraging at night, the zapper lights work well.

Of course, this is a passive solution that will leave behind a ton of dead moths, so if that’s not what you’re going for, try another remedy.

Predators

Consider utilizing natural predators that eat hummingbird moths to help control them.

If you have any of these species in your garden, do some reading to find out how to lure in more of them:

• Birds
• Spiders
• Bats
• Mantids
• Owls
• Rodents

They can help either eat the moth (avian species) or the moths while the crawling species can rid the caterpillars.

This is one of the most natural ways you can prevent hummingbird moths.

By using the feeding habits of other predators that eat them, you can effectively limit the population.

Get rid of the larvae

The hummingbird moth larvae (tobacco hornworms) are what do the bulk of the damage to your plants.

If you get rid of them, you stop the lifecycle from continually breeding more moths.

These larvae require their own special methodologies to eliminate them. You can follow these guides:

• Get rid of bugs on oleanders (cover caterpillars)
  Get rid of tomato hornworms

You’ll find that the strategies for caterpillar management are largely the same.

If you already notice that larvae are present in your plants, then controlling both the hummingbird adult moths while removing the larvae can be a very good technique to get rid of the pest entirely.

Introduce parasitic wasps to your garden

Parasitic wasps can help eliminate larvae. These wasps won’t damage your crops, but may not be available in your area.

There are multiple types of wasps, and you can even order them online. Use as directed. The wasps will consume the larvae so they will never be able to pupate.

Use bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a naturally occurring bacteria that are considered organic.

It’s widely used for pest control and can be safe for edible plants. Bt can be used to kill the caterpillars so they don’t spawn in and destroy the plants.

It doesn’t harm other insects but does have a few drawbacks. Make sure you read the instructions and use them as directed if you choose to go this route.

There are many products on the market, so do your research. Get something for residential use and safe for edibles.

More info about these moths

Here are some commonly asked questions about these mysterious moths.

Should you get rid of hummingbird moths?

That’s up to you.

If you’re here reading this article and you’re sure the caterpillars are from hummingbird moths in your garden, then it may be worthwhile to take steps to discourage them from feeding.

However, for most people, hummingbird moths are a welcome addition because they help pollinate fruits and veggies, and other decorative plants.

But if they start depositing eggs in your garden, that’s where the issue lies.

Over time, it’s only a given that you’re going to have little caterpillars cropping up on your…crops.

What attracts hummingbird moths?

They’re attracted to plants that have colorful flowers with easy-to-access nectar.

This is why they have some preferred host plants like bee balm or plant phlox.

Hummingbird moths are kind of rare to see because they congregate in areas with minimal disturbance and they usually are active nocturnally. But if you have these favorite plants in your garden, you may see a few of them buzzing about.

They love flowers and plants which they can stick their long proboscis to sip nectar from.

So if you have plants that attract these moths, you may see them around! It’s a good thing to have the moths, but not the caterpillars.

What time do hummingbird moths come out?

These graceful creatures come out during the night and day but are more commonly seen at night as they feed in private.

Sphinx moths may be seen fluttering about and drinking sap anytime.

But if you want to see them in numbers, nighttime is your best bet. They can be found in meadows, forest edges, or your own yard.

Are hummingbird moths a pest?

This is subjective.

It depends on your situation. If you’re not growing any prized plants, then perhaps a few moth larvae here and there won’t cause too much damage in your garden.

But if you’re growing edibles or something that you’re putting in the work for, then you may consider them a nuisance pest.

While a few hummingbird moths won’t do much harm, the larvae that they lay will. The moths themselves are fine, but the caterpillars aren’t.

If you could eliminate the larvae without harming the moths, that would be ideal for a wildlife garden.

Do hummingbird moths go to hummingbird feeders?

Hummingbird moths have been spotted visiting nectar feeders overnight!

These moths fall for the fake flower feeders and will try to drink out of them.

While they won’t do any harm to the feeder, they may fool you. That’s no bird. That’s a moth, friend. You may even see those fluttering wings just like the real bird.

They can sip nectar through the feeder too.

Here’s a video of one doing the deed:

Where do hummingbird moths lay their eggs?

These moths will lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves.

The eggs are usually found on plant leaves such as cherries, viburnums, hawthorns, honeysuckles, snowberries, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, petunias, and more.

They can lay upwards of 300 eggs! How’s that? Vines, shrubs, and other leaves are my favorites.

The eggs are well camouflaged. They’re usually white or black with a perfect sphere shape.

Each egg will hatch in 6-8 days on average, and then the larvae will begin feeding for about 21 days. The caterpillars are yellow or green with large bodies.

What happens to hummingbird moths in the winter?

In the winter, these moths will migrate to places that are warmer. They usually seep the nectars from plants that’ll sustain them during this time.

They will hibernate by spinning into the resting pupa so they can hide in the soil to keep warm from the elements.

These moths usually won’t be able to withstand the cold unless they go somewhere else that’s warmer so they can sustain themselves.

Otherwise, the cold will kill the moths in the end. But if they lay eggs, that’ll spawn a new generation of these guys.

Further reading

Here are some handy references you may find useful:

• Don’t be fooled by hummingbird moths – Farm and Dairy
• Hummingbird Moth – used a 1/4000th SS @ ISO 4000
• Hummingbird Moth, Hemaris thysbe – Wisconsin Horticulture

Hummingbird moths – Pest or pet?

Sphinx moths are often a pleasure to have in the garden as they hover from plant to plant sapping up that precious nectar.

They can be gorgeous native wildlife to your yard.

If the caterpillars are an issue though, then you’ll want to take steps to manage these guys. It really depends on what you’re growing and how much you care for those plants.

Going for the wild native look? Then leave them be. Growing important plants?

Then get rid of the buggers! Use the DIY solutions outlined in this guide to get rid of those moths naturally without those darn synthetic poisons.

If you have questions, please leave a comment below and I’ll get back to you.

The post How to Get Rid of Hummingbird Moths Naturally (Ultimate Guide) appeared first on BugWiz.

These guys can make a mess of your plant leaves as they suck the sap out of them like a straw into a cup of watermelon juice!

Squash bugs can kill younger plants that aren’t completely established yet.

So if your squash is just beginning to flower, you don’t want your harvest to be taken away by pests.

Thankfully, there are plenty of things you can do to get rid of squash bugs organically using basic materials you probably already have lying around your garden.

In this guide, we’ll cover these topics:

• How to identify squash bugs
• Signs of their damage
• How to get rid of them naturally
• Ways to keep them out of your squash
• Why your plants are infested with pests
• Various ways to repel pests from your cucurbits (squash, melons, zuchinnis, pumpkin, etc.)
• And more

If you have questions, post them using the comments form. Feel free to bookmark this page for easy reference since it’s quite detailed.

Let’s dive in and get rid of those squash bugs and squash ‘them up.

What’s a squash bug?

Squash bugs are named after their prominence in squash plants. They don’t only feed on squash plants. Once they get into your vegetable garden, you’ll find them infesting everything from squash to zucchini.

Zucchini, cucumber, cantaloupe, watermelon, and even pumpkin are tasty to them. Any plants in the cucurbit family are fair game for these critters.

In this article, we’ll go over some ways to get rid of squash bugs naturally using only organic DIY remedies.

While they’re not that hard to fully eliminate, they can quickly devour your vegetables (and fruits). So you need to get a plan of action immediately.

Other names

Squash bugs look very similar to other pests, so gardeners easily get confused over other bugs that have a similar appearance.

Squash bugs may also be referred to as:

• Squash borers
• Squash vine borer (mistakenly)
• Anasa tristis
• Squash beetles
• Stink bugs (mistakenly)

They’re similar to kissing bugs or blister beetles because they both have patterned fringes. But people who don’t know what to look for won’t have any idea, so that’s why it’s necessary to ID it if you wanna get rid of it.

Lifecycle

Squash bugs are most vulnerable when they’re still within the egg or as a nymph. When they become adults, their long legs allow them to quickly run away from being caught.

They also get a pair of wings so they can easily migrate from plant to plant in your backyard. The ideal time to get rid of them for good is through the egg.

Females lay eggs in the spring after mating and emerging from the winter. They’ll seek out favorable host plants and will look for suitable foliage to deposit their eggs.

The eggs are laid in clusters on the bottom of the leaves where the corner of the vein thickens. The eggs are brown, tiny, and small.

Eggs will take up to 14 days to hatch, depending on the ambient temperature. Warmer temperatures mean quicker hatching time. Nymphs will emerge and then begin feeding.

Adults will do the most damage as they have larger mouths and burn more calories for basic metabolism. But the nymphs are easier to catch.

Over the course of 3-4 months, the nymphs will slowly become adults. When they do, they’ll have a full set of wings.

They’ll continue to eat until the winter comes to and they’ll hide under shelter until the spring. When spring rolls around, they’ll mate.

The eggs are the most vulnerable because they’re not protected.

You can easily prune off leaves that are infested with eggs to remove squash bugs by the hundreds.

Identification – What do they look like?

Squash bugs will look different depending on their age. Let’s start with the overall adult appearance so you can identify whether or not it’s indeed a squash bug.

Adult A. tristis is gray or brown in color. They have ovular bodies when viewed from the dorsal perspective (looking down), just like blister beetles or baby cockroaches.

The body is primarily flat, which allows them to seep into small cracks or crevices such as your garden fencing. Some squash bugs have a diamond shape on their back that often comes paired with small white dots on the edges.

They can also have the letter “U” across their back or random dots with no pattern.

Adult squash bugs are about 0.5” in length. They have wings and can fly, but rarely will do so. They use their legs to crawl around on your pumpkin or squash and just feed.

They can also appear to be black, blue, or brown. Depending on how the light hits. You’ll often see them scattered on the skin of your squash running in random directions when they get disturbed by you or other predators.

Baby nymphs are about 1/10 of an inch in length. The babies are the same as the adults, but miniature versions.

They start out with green bodies but will get their grayish color when they grow. They look like small spiders and will hide on the bottom of the leaves. 

Squash bugs have dark legs and are capable of moving quickly.

This lets them dodge predators like humans so they can remain safe. But when you see them feeding on your squash, you’ll see them in large groups eating together.

What do squash bugs eat?

Squash bugs can cause major damage before you even notice them.

These guys eat plants primarily from the cucurbitae genus, which encompasses a variety of cucurbits such as pumpkins, squash, cucumbers, zucchini, various melons, winter melon, gourds, summer squash, etc.

They eat the leaves by sucking the sap out of them which will destroy the plant over time. The leaves will be eaten first as they drain the sap from the foliage, then they’ll feed on the vines, then the fruit of the vegetable.

Where do they come from?

These pests are fully equipped with wings for flight. They can quickly migrate from one cucurbit to another as they please.

Whether it’s changing seasons, competition, or breeding, squash bugs can fly quite a distance in terms of size.

This allows them to infest new plants with ease and why you may see them suddenly show up seemingly overnight. If there’s a food source, you can expect it to be infested with squash bugs if it’s not protected to keep them off.

They mainly feed on cucurbits as their primary host plant but will settle for others if necessary. If you’re growing cucumbers, pumpkins, or squash in your garden, it’s fair game.

It just takes a single mated female to deposit her eggs. They can also travel from one plant to the other with their wings or just by crawling with super fast speed.

They’re good at finding plants using their wings.

Where do they hide?

Squash bugs generally hide in the crown of the plant. Both the adult and nymphs will congregate in this area because it protects them from predators right at the soil line.

You can easily spot them if you check the crown of your infested plant. The eggs look like oval-shaped, brown eggs that are deposited in clusters on the undersides of leaves or near the crown of the plant.

Are they dangerous? Do they bite?

Squash bugs pose more of a threat to your plants than you. They don’t bite, transmit diseases, or contain poisons or venoms.

So they’re harmless to humans. But they can transmit the circuit yellow vine disease because they’re a vector. This can’t hurt you, but it will hurt your plants.

If you’re thinking about picking them off with your fingers, wear protective gloves. Although they don’t have toxins, you want to avoid getting their bug guts on your fingers.

It can stain clothing or fabrics. Their saliva is also not harmful to humans. They only use it to help digest the sap they suck out of the squash leaves.

Do squash bugs overwinter?

Squash bugs will overwinter (hibernate) in the soil or any other location that shields them from the cold.

They can be found winterizing in vehicles, plants, rocks, garbage bins, compost bins, leaf litter, mulch, or other clutter.

When temperatures pick up in the following spring, they’ll come out to breed then the females will deposit eggs on the leaves.

Signs of damage

Squash bug damage is noticeable if you know what to look for:

• Wilting leaves
• Yellowing or browning foliage
• Dropped leaves
• Vine damage
• Holes in fruit
• Warped fruit
• Dry leaves with torn edges
• Skeletonized leaves
• Plant drooping
• Poor yield
• Black vines
• Holes in the leaves

It depends on the type of plant you’re growing and how old it is. Older plants that are established can handle quite the infestation compared to younger ones.

Squash bugs will kill your plant if you don’t get rid of them. Squash plants that are larger and virile will fare just fine with smaller infestations.

But younger smaller squash plants can’t. They’re vulnerable to squash bugs so you need to do something.

How to get rid of squash bugs organically

Here we cover some natural techniques to get rid of these pests without poisons or sprays.

Start with the easiest using whatever you have handy. Then move onto the more invasive techniques if necessary. Only use commercial products when none of these DIY remedies work for your case.

Remove them by hand

While it’s possible to remove them manually, you need to be quick. These guys are extremely fast despite their size.

But if you act quickly, you can get rid of them with just a pair of gloves. You need to be persistent and find out what works for you.

To hand-pick, put on a pair of gloves. Get a bucket of soapy water and place it near your squash. Get ready to pick!

Move the plant so you can see under the leaves and into the crown. Once you see them, they’re going to run.

Quickly scoop them up and then toss them into the bucket. They’ll likely stick to your gloves so you can dip it into the soap which should kill them instantly.

They don’t bite, so don’t worry. But they will release this nasty goop if you crush them. Repeat this daily until the bugs are gone for good. Check under leaves or just snip it off entirely. Dump the bugs into the compost.

This is the most basic way to get rid of squash bugs. It’s kind of primitive, but it really does work. Plus you don’t need anything to get started.

Remove the eggs

Getting rid of the eggs should be your main focus.

When there are dozens of eggs on a single leaf, you can effectively wipe out them in huge numbers rather than trying to catch the nymphs or adults one by one.

Check your leaves, vines, and crowns for those tiny brown eggs. Remove them by scraping them off or just pinch the entire leaf off. Even spraying it with some dish soap will damage the outer layer. Kill the eggs to prevent squash bugs in the first place.

Look for the eggs where the leaves have veins. The eggs are small, brown and oval-shaped. Remove them by hand or pull the leaf.

You don’t need any special equipment to see the eggs. You can also scrape them off using a paint peeler. This is one of the most effective ways to keep the bugs off your squash. Check the foliage for new eggs weekly.

Plant bug resistant varieties of squash

Some squash varieties are much more insect-hardy than others. If bugs are a common issue in your yard, consider changing the type of squash you’re growing.

Here are some more resilient cultivars:

• Crookneck squash (summer squash)
• Butternut squash (large squash for soups/stews)
• Green Hubbard squash (winter squash similar to sweet potatoes)
• Dickson pumpkins
• Cheese pumpkins (sweet long island)
• Zucheeta tromboncito (similar to zuchhnia)
• Royal Acorn (flavorful squash)
• Spaghetti squash
• Striped Cushaw squash
• Pink Banana squash
• Sweet Cheese squash

The key is to grow what thrives in your hardiness zone. Even though they’re all just squash, some won’t do well in your zone. So check it first. The same goes for pumpkins, cucumbers, zucchini, etc.

Baking soda

Baking soda by itself won’t kill squash bugs. It’s used in combination with onion and a few drops of neem oil. This makes a nasty repellent that can make the bugs go crazy.

It works more like an organic insecticide rather than a repellent. You may need to adjust the neem oil level in order to get the bugs out. Do not use it near pets or people.

Spot test in a small spot first. The mixture can cause reactions, so use PPE.

DIY insecticidal soap for squash bugs

You can make your own homemade solution right in your kitchen so you don’t need to spend money on those toxic sprays or liquids from the hardware store. All you need is some liquid soap. Mix 1 tsp of it with 1-2 liters of water, depending on how concentrated you want it.

If you notice that your plant burns (always test on a single spot first), then add more water. If you notice that the bugs aren’t being eliminated by it, then use more soap.

If you use organic soap, it’s technically an organic remedy, right?

You can make this for pennies at home compared to the markup you’ll pay at the store.

Pour it into a bottle and spray it on the pests directly. It won’t kill all of them, but it will make them slower so you can remove them by hand. The soap should be washed off the plant after you spray. Repeat daily until the bugs are gone.

You can use Dawn dish soap to kill squash bugs, but most soapy solutions will work. Just adjust the measurements as necessary.

Always test it on a single leaf first to see how your veggie reacts to it first. If it burns, change the concentration of the soap. Spot test first. Always.

Don’t spray the whole plant because you do some serious damage on contact. Let it sit for 48 hours then check the spot test.

Duct tape

You can use regular tape to quickly grab running squash bugs. Pull a thick strip and then use it to stick the bugs on it just like you would when removing Fido’s dog hair from your shirt.

This tape will quickly get rid of tons of them at once. You can be creative with it. Roll it on your fingers. Then run it on the bottom of leaves, vines, or even the crown.

The nymphs and adults will stick to it. Unwrap then toss it when you’re done. This is a quick way to gather a lot of squash bugs with minimal effort.

No poisons, toxins, or sprays are necessary! Is it organic? I think you can guess the answer to that!

Grow nasturtium

Check your local hardiness zone and see what grows well in your zone. You can plant them in rows alongside your squash, or in a perimeter.

This will act as a physical barrier to keep pests out of your veggie garden. Nasturtium has been favored in the gardening community because it’s very good at keeping squash bugs away.

Essential oils

Some oils release a powerful scent that can be used to organically keep bugs away. These can be utilized in multiple ways.

Use a cotton bud and soak it in a solution of oil, then place it next to your plants. Make multiple so that the scent is evenly distributed.

Don’t spray it directly onto the plant as it may harm it.

Some good choices to try are the following:

• Cedar oil
• Lavender oil
• Eucalyptus oil
• Peppermint oil

Use organic oils only. Read the label. Use as instructed.

Build a squash bug trap

Using a trap is a cheap and easy solution to catch them by the dozens. These bugs like to hide under shelter overnight and come out during the day to feed. If you make a fake shelter, they’ll hide in it or under it for the night.

You can use newspapers, magazines, or cardboard. Place a piece of it near the soil line of your squash. Then wait overnight. The next day, remove it and you’ll see a ton of them congregating within it.

Remove them or spray them down with dish soap before they scatter. You can repeat this daily until you get rid of the population.

Raise chickens

If you raise fowl, chickens are excellent natural predators that’ll gladly eat up those squash bugs. They’ll forage on their own between the leaves and crown during the day. Not to mention they’ll do it for free!

Companion plant

Similar to using plants that repel pests, consider planting your squash with decoy plants. You can space the squash by row and then put decoy plants between them.

These plants should be something you’re willing to give up as they’ll be eaten by the bugs, but the point is that they eat these plants instead of your prized squash.

For example, if you’re growing winter squash, you can put pumpkins between the squash (not the plant, just the fruit). The bugs may go for the pumpkin instead of the squash.

There are also several herbs and florals that can naturally repel squash bugs:

• Onion
• Chives
• Radishes
• Mint
• Dill
• Bee balm
• Marigolds
• Nasturtiums
• Tansy
• Garlic
• Pepper

Consider pairing your squash with these insect-repelling plants.

Diatomaceous earth

Diatomaceous earth is a natural supplement that many use in their diet. But did you know it can also be used as a natural pest control product?

It’s basically a fine white crystal that can scratch the hard exoskeleton of bugs. Once they come into contact with DE, it pierces them like a throwing knife.

It’s also safe for humans (we consume it), so it’s much safer than spraying everything with synthetic pesticides.

Make sure you buy organic diatomaceous earth that’s used as a supplement, not the pool-grade one. It must be pure, food-grade DE.

Sprinkle it around your squash in a ring on the soil. This forces bugs to crawl over it in order to get to the plant.

You can also sprinkle it around potters (the rim) or in the soil. You can even put some on the leaves, vines, and crown. The point is to get as much powder onto the bugs as you can! If you see a bunch of them together, dump the powder all over them.

Over time, it’ll pierce their hard shell and then they’ll slowly leak out precious fluids. DE works well from roaches to millipedes to crickets.

Keep people and pets out of the area so they don’t mess up the powder. Reapply after rain, watering, or high winds.

Row covers

Use row covers (the floating type) to safeguard your veggies from bugs. Squash bugs are too large when fully grown to squeeze through the netting in the cover, so you can prevent adults from getting in.

Nymphs may be able to sneak through if the net diameter isn’t tight, so make sure you get one that’s sized appropriately. Row covers allow regular watering, sunlight, and photosynthesis to take place while keeping larger bugs out.

You can get row covers for cheap from your local hardware store or garden center. Just make sure you install it right and snug again the soil line. There are also DIY solutions that you can use to replace them in place of row covers.

Some ideas include fabrics, fish nets, or leggings. The drawback is physical barriers for pests doubly keep beneficial pollinators out like birds and bees, which may be needed for your squash, pumpkin, or other cucurbits.

You need to manually allow pollinators access to your plants in the summertime, then cover it when you’re done. Do it when the plants bloom.

Use trellises for your squash

Trellises can help keep your plants elevated, which can prevent some crawling insects from getting onto your cucumber or pumpkin.

This can help reduce the chance of infestation. It also helps keep mold or fungus from growing because they’re not sitting in the soil where water can be pooling.

Overplant your squash

Planting more squash (or whatever circuit you’re growing) will help ensure a harvest.

You should expect some number of your plants to get infested by squash bugs, but they can serve as decoys while your “real” plants are thriving.

This can also backfire if they don’t stay in one place and infest the nearby plants as well. Their population will only be limited by the supply of food.

Mulch less

By putting a layer of mulch, you can protect your foliage from swings in the temperatures. But simultaneously, it gives them a place to hide as well.

Bugs can use the mulch as a shelter too. You can avoid this by removing the mulch when the cold front has passed.

Only use it on the cold nights you expect it to be too much for your plant to tolerate. Older plants can handle wider temp ranges than seedlings.

Also, don’t let the mulch touch the base or crown of your plant. This just makes it easier for the bugs to hide in it. It also introduces fungus or mold if water gets stuck there.

Predators

There are some predators that eat squash bugs.

Predatory insects like spiders, birds, and ladybugs will feed on the eggs or nymphs. If you have them native to your zone, do some reading on how to bring in more of them to eat up the squash bugs!

Tachinid flies are also excellent predators of squash bugs.

They’ve even been used in industrial control in California, which shows how they can be an integral part of a natural solution. You can plant insect-attracting plants like dill to bring in more flies.

Neem oil

Neem oil does kill squash bugs. You can spray it on them or your plant leaves. It will burn your plants if you apply it during peak hours when it’s hot.

Only use it at night. Then wash off the excess residue. It has a residual effect so it lasts quite some time.

Keep pets and people away from neem as it can have adverse effects if ingested or contacted. Use only organic neem oil. Read the label and use it as directed.

Neem oil is an organic way to get rid of squash bugs, but it also prevents pollinators from pollinating because it’s harmful to them too.

You should avoid using neem on veggies, fruits, or other edible plants that flower because it can hurt beneficial insects.

Practice crop rotation

Rotate your crops often to help reduce the risk of infestation. You should never plant crops in the same plot in multiple seasons.

This means next year, plant something else in the place of the squash that’s a completely different genus. Move the squash elsewhere.

This helps reduce the possibility of infestation from the same insects. It also prevents soil depletion of nutrients. 

Keep garden clean

Never let your garden go to waste. Keep it clean, neat, and tidy. Just doing this (what we should be doing) will help deter pests from infesting it by nature.

This means doing regular work such as maintaining, pruning, mowing the lawn, and harvesting on time. You should never let dried or wilted foliage sit as it brings in pests that consume it.

Prune plants that are growing like the wild. Remove unwanted foliage. And till your soil! Regular tilling of the soil can expose eggs or other insects hiding in the soil for the winter.

Tilling in the fall before winterizing can help get rid of hibernating bugs. If you have water features like a pond or pool, make sure that you keep them clean and maintained.

Clean up leaf litter immediately, including those grass blades from cutting the lawn. Don’t store junk in your garden either as it can squash bugs edu

Lastly, ensure that your water drains well. Pooling water increases the ambient humidity which just brings in more squash bugs and co. The water should never sit.

Delay planting until the summer

This can be done with varieties of squash that bloom quickly.

If you wait until later in the season to plant, you can prevent infestation because they won’t have anything to lay eggs on early in the spring.

Of course, you need a variety of squash that is ready to harvest quickly before the wintertime. This varies depending on your hardiness zone.

Check your squash!

Perhaps the most overlooked way to naturally get rid of squash bugs and keep them away is by checking your plants regularly.

Look for their signature brown egg clusters or feeding near the plant crown. If you see active bugs, quickly start a plan to get rid of them.

Comb your leaves and check for eggs. Remove adult bugs by hand or by spraying them with a natural insecticide. This will kill them on the spot so they can’t breed.

Every time you go out to tend to your plants, check for squash bugs when you prune, water, or harvest your fruit.

Vinegar

Vinegar acts more like a repellent than an insecticide. If you want to kill squash bugs naturally, use your fingers to pick them off!

You can also use neem oil or rubbing alcohol, but use it with caution as it can burn your plant. For vinegar, you spray it right onto the bugs as they feed.

The acidity of it can kill the nymphs, but the adults generally run away.

Coffee grounds

While we as humans love the smell of coffee (most of us), squash bugs hate it.

You can sprinkle used coffee grounds into the soil around your cubit plants.

The scent will organically repel squash bugs and repel them due to the nature of coffee. it’s also good for the soil by providing fertilizer and adjusting the NPK.

Commercial remedies

Are organic methods not working for you? It may be time to resort to commercial solutions.

Whatever you do, make sure you opt for organic or natural sprays that are safe for edible plants. You do NOT want to use synthetic insecticides that are not safe for veggies!

Look for organic products that contain Spinosad, which naturally kills squash bugs.

Here are some popular products to get you started (links to Amazon):

• Bonide – Çaptan Jack’s Dead Bug Brew
• Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap

Whatever you decide to buy, be sure to read the label. Make sure squash bugs (Anasa tristis) is listed as an insect it works on.

Commonly asked questions about squash bug control

Here are some questions that readers often ask about squash bugs that you may benefit from. If you still have questions of your own, please post them.

How to get rid of squash bugs overwintering in the soil

Squash bugs will winterize in the soil to protect themselves during the cold season (think to hibernate).

So basically they’re hiding in the soil and waiting until spring when the temps pick up again so they can come out and then mate. Then lay eggs. Then eat your fruit.

Squash bugs are vulnerable when they overwinter because they’re sleeping.

Till your soil to remove sleeping bugs by hand. Drown them in soapy water to kill them.

This is why it’s important that you rotate your corps. If you don’t do it, you can see how they’ll just infest your plant again when they emerge from hibernation. Right?

What do squash bugs hate?

Squash bugs hate specific plants, herbs, and oils. Essential oils like neem oil can help repel them naturally so they keep off your squash.

Other plants like nasturtium have a bug-repelling scent to keep bugs away too. You can try vinegar, baking soda, or diatomaceous earth, which all have mixed degrees of effectiveness in the gardening community.

Do squash bugs come back every year?

Squash bugs will reinfect host plants in the same garden if possible. They tend to stay in the same area they get out of overwintering.

Even though they have wings, they rarely use them to migrate unless they need to. So by crawling, they don’t move much from the original host plants.

This is why you see them show up every spring but disappear in the fall. You can try tilling the soil to expose them or remove the eggs.

Does squishing squash bugs attract more?

You may have read that killing squash bugs bring in more.

This is true for some insects like stink bugs in the house, but for squash bugs, they’re not cannibals so the scent of their own kind getting squished doesn’t bring in more.

However, squishing them can leave a nasty stain on your fingers, so you should only do it with gloves.

How do farmers kill squash bugs?

Farmers utilize industrial-grade pesticides that aren’t practical for the public.

They’re generally purchased in large bulk quantities and are very expensive since they need to cover many acres of farmland.

This isn’t something that the everyday person would do in order to spray a small garden. Farmers can control squash bugs with these sprays because they have the means to purchase, apply, and have the right licensing to use them.

Further reading

You may find these additional references useful:

• Squash bugs in home gardens – UMN
• Squash Bugs Guidelines – UC IPM
• Squash Bugs on Vegetables – UME

Squash bug control without insecticides!

Congrats. You’re now armed with the knowledge of natural remedies for squash bugs.

Now go apply it to save the precious harvest that you worked so hard for. Squash bugs are a PITA because they’re so darn quick and show up in the dozens.

But with a combination of these techniques, you should be able to greatly reduce their numbers. For instance, combine manual picking with natural predators with row covers to make a three-pronged technique.

If you have any questions about your specific squash bug problem, please post a comment and let me know.

The post How to Get Rid of Squash Bugs Naturally (Organic DIY Remedies) appeared first on BugWiz.

Not only are they appealing to humans, but they’re also vulnerable to pests.

I guess the colorful petals draw in bugs just as much as it draws in humans.

In this guide, you’ll learn about the following:

• List of common oleander pests
• How to get rid of aphids, caterpillars, etc.
• Ways to prevent pests from eating your oleander
• And more

If you have questions about your oleander infestation, feel free to post them using the form at the very end of this DIY pest control guide. I’ll try to help you out however I can!

Let’s get rid of those oleander pests. Naturally.

Common oleander pests

Oleander attracts a variety of bugs, but some are much more prominent than others.

So what kind of bugs eat oleander?

The most pests you’ll encounter are:

• Aphids
• Milkweed bugs
• Caterpillars (oleander caterpillars, spotted oleander caterpillar, polka dot)
• Scale
• Spider mites
• Mealybugs
• Oleander hawk-moths
• Ants (co-habitant of aphid soot)

(Feel free to click on any of the guides above for detailed steps for DIY home remedies.)

Depending on your local climate, the pests you’ll find vary. But this is common sense.

The temperature, competition, food availability, humidity, and the micro ecosystem in your garden will determine the bugs that you find.

This guide goes over the most common insects you’ll find eating your oleander leaves.

Aphids

Aphids are the primary pest of oleander (or just about any other garden plant in existence).

Oleander aphids can be yellow, black, green, lime, orange, or white.

They show up out of nowhere and suck the precious sap out of the oleander using their piercing mouthparts.

The good thing about aphid infestations is that they only do aesthetic damage for the most part.

Established oleander plants will rarely suffer permanent damage, but younger ones can be vulnerable. Aphid infestations aren’t as scary as they look.

While you may see your oleander swarming with them, the damage is limited to the surface level. If you live in Florida, seeing aphids on your oleander is a regular occurrence.

Regardless, let’s learn about how you can get rid of them.

The true oleander aphid can reproduce without fertilization. This allows them to increase their number of progeny with minimal disturbance.

Also known as the milkweed aphid or sweet pepper (Nerium) aphid, it’s commonly found in warmer temperate zones worldwide.

Identification – What do oleander aphids look like?

Oleander aphids are no different from any other aphid other than how they reproduce (females don’t need males to produce offspring nor do they deposit eggs).

They have bright yellow bodies with black legs, but can also be brown or black.

They originate from the Mediterranean, which is also where the oleander shrub was born.

They’re yellow and can be found in warm regions all over the globe, but their color varies depending on the aphid species. They cast their skins as they molt so you may find visible translucent shedding on the plant.

Infested plants are often disfigured with sticky tar-like soot. Wanted adults migrate to new areas, so you may see new colonies moving in each season.

Oleander aphids are remarkable because there is no male or eggs (if it’s a true oleander aphid).

Females only produce nymphs that molt 5 times which only results in females. North Carolina is common with this pest.

Oleander aphid populations are commonly found in the southern or eastern parts of NC. They prefer warmer zones that are similar to their native origins in the Mediterranean.

If you find eggs or males on your oleander, they’re not real oleander aphids but some other species.

Do oleander aphids damage plants?

These aphids will inject their piercing mouthparts into the oleander shrub.

They suck up the sap from their host plant.

Over time, your oleander will start to wilt, droop, or produce fewer flowers. Aphids are like tiny vampires that suck the nutrients out of the leaves.

A small bunch of them won’t do much damage because they’re so tiny.

But when you don’t take action to kill them, they can quickly wilt your plant.

Your oleander may show the following signs of damage:

• Black sooty mold
• Honeydew deposits
• Visible ants
• Visible aphids
• Inflorescence of leaves
• Damaged or veiny leaves
• Stunted growth
• Reduced flowers
• Eggs on the leaves
• Dark fungi
• Sticky, sweet liquids on the leaves

While the damage is mostly on the surface level, they can also transmit viruses such as:

• Potyvirus
• Papaya ringspot potyvirus
• Sugarcane mosaic virus

Basically, you don’t want aphids on your oleander.

Signs of oleander aphid damage

The obvious sign of damage is the sticky honeydew substance they deposit.

As aphids feast, they leave behind a sticky, sugary residue that brings in other pests like ants.

Thus, you’ll find aphids feeding on your oleander while ants eat the honeydew. The sooty substance will turn black or brown over time, which can hinder photosynthesis.

This can stunt oleander growth.

Visible aphids on your oleander. They don’t hide. You can see them on the leaves, stalks, or stems. Sometimes on the backside to hide from the sun.

How to get rid of oleander aphids

To get if of oleander aphids, there are multiple paths you can take.

Check out the following techniques and see what works for your situation.

Manual removal

If you have a lot of visible aphids that are easy to access, then grab a bucket!

Fill it with a few spoonfuls of dish soap and a gallon of water. Use a brush or sponge to brush the aphids into the bucket.

Hold it right below the bugs or set it on the soil if you need both hands.

The aphids will be killed after drowning in the DIY solution. This is a quick and easy way to remove a ton of aphids with little effort.

Spray with a hose

A common recommendation you’ll see thrown around is to use a high pressure hose to blast the bugs off your oleander bush. It’s because it works.

Yes, the aphids will climb back onto the stem. Or they may temporarily go into hiding. But if you’re consistent in disturbing their environment, they’ll leave.

Every time you go out to water your oleander, use a hose with an adjustable nozzle to spray them off.

This removes them by the hundreds in just a few minutes. It also helps get rid of the honeydew that may have been set on your oleander leaves.

The thing you need to watch out for is to not damage the petals of your oleander. They’re fragile and will break if you spray them with them.

Watch out for fungal issues too from excess water on the leaves.

You’re supposed to water from the base up, so this may be something to be cautious about before you consider spraying them off.

Horticultural oils

Ornamental plants are sensitive to most pesticides, so using something like horticultural oil may help reduce aphids.

Water plants thoroughly before spraying and use them in the early morning or late evening so the residue dries up before being exposed to sunlight. Use as directed.

Particular oils can be very effective for aphids when used correctly.

Insecticidal soaps (DIY or commercial)

Use an organic insecticidal soap to help eliminate pests on oleander. Use as directed.

These soaps are often available in pet-safe sprays, so if you have pets or people rummaging around the garden, this alternative may be safer than oils or synthetic sprays.

Some popular insecticidal soap brands you can look for are GardenSafe, Bonide, or SaferBrand.

You can find these products on Amazon. Make sure that the listed insect is on the label or else it may be a waste of money to buy.

Use as directed. Read all warnings before use.

Insecticidal soaps are also generally less damaging to the plant compared to other compounds that are more concentrated.

It’s a good area to start if you’re looking for commercial solutions.

You can also mix your insecticidal soap at home because a lot of basic ingredients can be very good for aphid control.

Here’s a reference video to get your mind jogging:

Neem oil

Neem oil is a concentrated extract from the neem plant.

The oil forms a protective residue that sticks to plant surfaces and prevents aphids from sucking up the sap. It has pros and cons.

On the pro side, it’s a natural DIY remedy for aphids on oleander. It’s cheap and you can even find organic neem. It works well when applied correctly.

On the con side, it can overheat your plant. Since it blocks the leaves from releasing heat, the oleander may suffer from excess heat.

This is why you should only use it at night. It gives the neem time to dry, plus there’s no light. Wash off excess neem with a hose after you apply.

Use a small part of your shrub first before applying it to the entire plant.

While neem is naturally extracted from neem leaves, it still comes with its own warnings if you choose to use it for pest control. Neem is awesome, but must be used in moderation- never overdone.

A little goes a long way with neem oil.

Neem oil is dangerous to some pets, like cats. People may have sensitivities to it as well. Read all warnings. Use as directed.

Neem oil is good for moderate infestations plus has a residual effect so you don’t need to constantly apply it.

Remove infested leaves

Oleander that’s been infested with pest activity should be removed.

Prune larvae infested foliage because it’ll remove aphids, eggs, larvae, honeydew, and ants simultaneously.

There’s no need to keep the foliage as oleander is tough. To instantly kill the aphids hiding in the leaf litter, dip it into soapy water.

Leaves that are wilted, torn, or otherwise damaged should be pruned cleanly from the shrub.

You’d be surprised at how much of the bug population you can instantly vaporize by doing regular pruning.

Besides, it’s good for your oleander. It keeps it clean, tidy, and nice to look at!

Row covers

Floating row covers can be placed over younger oleander shrubs.

These covers prevent larger insects from getting into the plant but allow it to photosynthesize, be watered, and be exposed to the elements.

Row covers are excellent for larger bugs like caterpillars or aphids if the netting is small enough. If you’re not growing multiple brushes, use regular plant netting to keep bugs out.

Note that if a stray insect gets into the net, it can deposit eggs which render the whole setup useless.

Natural predators

If you’re wondering “What will eat oleander aphids?” you’re on the right path. These buggers can be found on everything from basil to geraniums.

These guys make a tasty snack for many predators out there. Aphids have many natural predators, so it’s a viable method to utilize them to your benefit.

These predators include lady beetles (ladybug), midges, damsel bugs, soldier beetles, blister beetles, lacewings (green or brown), big-eyed bugs, hover flies, parasitoid wasps, rove beetles, syrphid flies, and ladybirds.

These can be purchased online if you don’t have them in your area. Or you can find out which species are native and then research how to bring in more of them.

Natural predators won’t fully get rid of aphids for the most part but can help reduce their population.

Milkweed bugs

Milkweed is a host plant that larvae of the monarch butterfly feed on.

Because of this, sometimes the nomenclature “milkweed bugs” encompasses other pests which leads to confusion.

Milkweed plants have several insects like whiteflies, scales, spider mites, snails, thrips, leaf miners, slugs, aphids, etc.

Many bugs eat milkweed, but the actual milkweed bugs (large and small) are true bugs that feed on milkweed seeds.

So if someone is saying they have milkweed bugs on their oleander, it can be the actual true bug, or it can be any of the insects that eat milkweed. Just wanted to clear up the confusion.

Occasionally, milkweed bugs may be found on oleander plants if their preferred host plant isn’t available.

To get rid of them, you can use the following techniques:

Removing by hand

Use protective garden gear to manually remove the milkweed bugs by hand. Pick them off and then dunk them into soap water.

This is the most basic and straightforward way you can get rid of them naturally.

While it does take some time, it can be effective for smaller milkweed infestations on younger oleander plants.

Soapy water spray

Milkweed bugs can be controlled by manually removing them. Mix a bucket of soapy water, then pour the solution into a spray bottle.

Spray the milkweed bugs directly to kill them. Since these bugs are relatively large and easy to spot, removing them by hand is possible.

The milkweed bugs will fall off the oleander. Get something to catch them in (such as the original bucket of soapy water). Repeat daily until the milkweed bugs are gone.

Use commercial insecticides

There are commercial insecticides you can use to quickly eliminate milkweed bugs.

Opt for something organic or “green” rather than synthetic. Use as directed. This should only be used if the other methods don’t work.

Essential oils

Some essential oils may help repel milkweed bugs. Buy a bottle of pure, organic essential oil extract and then dilute it with water.

Depending on the concentration, the amount of water you need varies. Read the bottle for directions.

Spray on your oleander in a test spot first, then wait 2 days to see if your plant reacts to it. If not, then apply liberally to the entire shrub.

Essential oils are a quick and natural way to deter pests without using dangerous synthetic compounds.

Some excellent oils you can try are:

• Eucalyptus
• Peppermint
• Lavender
• Citronella
• Citrus

Some plants or people can be sensitive to essential oils, so read the labels/warnings before use.

Pruning

Removing infested leaves with visible milkweed bugs is a good idea.

This foliage is likely smeared with eggs or nymphs feeding on it, so prune them off. You can quickly remove large numbers of bugs from your oleander by doing this.

Ugly foliage that’s been even remotely damaged by bugs should be cut from your oleander. Don’t risk it. There can be eggs or nymphs hiding within the foliage hidden from view.

When dealing with pests, it’s always ideal to take the safe root and prune it back.

Check out this guide for milkweed bug control.

Oleander caterpillars

The oleander caterpillar is a bright orange caterpillar with numerous black hairs on its body. In Florida, Georgia, and other coastal regions, the oleander caterpillar is extremely common.

Scientifically known as Syntomeida epilais Walker, this bug is hungry for leaves and leaves behind damaged foliage.

Oleander only has one caterpillar that’s a major concern, and this is it.

There’s a very similar caterpillar to the oleander caterpillar called the spotted oleander caterpillar (E. pugione). Its distribution is limited to the Keys or Southern FL.

Oleander caterpillars are poisonous to humans!

The oleander caterpillar is poisonous to humans. It can cause adverse reactions like itchy skin or rashes.

If you notice that its body is completely orange with those piercing black spikes, it’s a sign that you shouldn’t touch it!

You should never handle it directly without proper protective gear. If you don’t think you can confidently handle them, consider hiring professionals.

What does the oleander caterpillar turn into?

The oleander caterpillar will become a dark blue wasp moth. It has white polka dots on its wings and body with a long antenna.

These moths have distinctive blue shades with a red rear end. The head is dark blue with black antennae that are yellow.

It’s native to the Caribbean, but it’s found all over the world in coastal regions.

Oleander caterpillar damage

Oleander caterpillars leave behind some easy-to-identify damage.

You really can’t go wrong with the telltale signs of their infestation, so here’s what to look for.

Infestation by the oleander caterpillar is very easy to recognize.

The young larvae will chew on the oleander shoots. They’ll turn yellow or brown over time. Leaves will become veiny because they eat everything but the leaf veins.

The major/minor veins aren’t favorable to them.

Look under the leaves. You may see them feeding on the bottom in a small cluster. Oleander caterpillars feed in groups, so it makes it easy to wipe out many of them at once.

Since they feed in small groups rather than individually, you can remove the leaf that they’re hiding on and then dunk it into soapy water.

A few leaves equal a few dozen caterpillars.

Defoliation of the oleander leaves is the major sign of caterpillar larvae. Your oleander leaves will become skeletonized, bare, yellow, and chewed with holes or jagged edges.

Oleander is resilient when established. Complete defoliation won’t kill your shrub. But repeated infestation will.

Neem oil

Neem oil can be applied to help prevent caterpillar damage.

Use organic or pure neem oil and use it only when the sun isn’t out. Read all labels and use as directed.

Test on a small portion of your oleander first. Neem oil must be diluted and applied evenly on the foliage. Excess oil must be washed off.

Neem can be dangerous for pets and sensitive individuals, so use with caution. See the section above for more info on neem.

Use natural predators

Birds are excellent predators of caterpillars in general.

They can spot them and pick them off your shrub with pinpoint accuracy.

The problem is that oleander caterpillars feed on poisonous oleander leaves. Birds therefore can’t eat them. The same goes for other small mammals.

While oleander caterpillars are abundant, most species will completely ignore them because of their poisonous diet.

Therefore, we need to look to other species to help us eliminate these pests.

Some natural predators that CAN eat oleander caterpillars include the following:

• Stink bugs
• Fire ants
• Tachinid flies
• Tachinid wasps

You’ll need to do some reading to find out which of these predators are in your area natively (as in they’re already found in your garden, not introduced).

Then find out how to bring in more of them. Stink bugs will eat the larvae. Tachinid flies will wipe out larvae as well.

Most of these predators will only feed on the larvae of oleander caterpillars, so they don’t work on large caterpillars.

Not everyone will have access to these insects, so it may not be an option for you.

Prune infested foliage

Removing the larvae in large numbers is the easiest way to bring down the extent of their damage quickly. Remember to use protective equipment because oleander and caterpillars are both poisonous!

It’s cost-effective, environmentally friendly, and doesn’t take any synthetic pesticides introduced to your yard. This is important if you’re growing veggies or fruits or just have people/pets.

Get a bucket and fill it with soapy water. Use a few tablespoons of dish detergent in a few gallons of water. The ratio doesn’t matter. It just needs to form suds when you stir it.

Put on some gardening gloves and wear protective gear. Remember that oleander caterpillars are poisonous, and so is the plant itself.

You do NOT want to come into direct or indirect contact with the plant.

Place the bucket under the foliage. Then go caterpillar hunting!

Use a pair of pruners to snip off foliage where you find them hiding on the underside. Snip it off cleanly on the joint. Then toss the entire leaf into the water. This will kill the caterpillars.

Repeat for the entire plant, once per week.

The dead caterpillars should be treated as hazardous. Dispose of it properly.

Keep people/pets away from it. Wash your hands immediately when handling anything oleander related.

Consider Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)

Bt can be used as a last resort for caterpillars.

This is a biological microbial that’s used as an organic insecticide. It kills lepidopteran larvae when used properly without harming beneficial insects.

It’s sold under many trade names and you can pick up a vial of it online or at your local nursery. Use as directed.

Bt will kill the larvae, but not the adults. It works by disrupting the caterpillar’s normal birthing cycle.

By killing the larvae, there will be no adults to mate with and lay more eggs. Bt wipes out future generations, so you can’t expect instant results.

While Bt is powerful for caterpillars, you shouldn’t use it if it’s not necessary. There are easier means that don’t require you to introduce foreign nematodes into your soil.

But if you’ve tried everything to get rid of these darn caterpillars and nothing works, then Bt is worth trying before you call in the pros.

Further reading

• Key Plant, Key Pests: Oleander (Nerium oleander) – UFL
• Oleander Leaf Scorch Management Guidelines – UC IPM
• Managing Pests in Gardens: Trees and Shrubs: Oleander – UC IPM

Is your oleander now pest free?

Oleander is a resilient shrub that’s hardy to heat, pests, and even salinity in the soil. The only thing it’s really afraid of is the cold.

Thankfully, most pest problems are solved with some patience and persistence.

Oleander can take a beating before it suffers from pest damage, so you get plenty of room for trial and error to figure out how to get rid of them.

If you have specific questions about your oleander bug problem, please use the form below to post a comment.

Or if you’ve got tips to share with other readers, do likewise! Please let me know your feedback on this guide too.

The post How to Get Rid of Oleander Pests Naturally (Aphids, Caterpillars, & More) appeared first on BugWiz.

These crickets aren’t like your ordinary house cricket. They dig holes in the soil and then uproot your plants.

Some munch on the foliage roots itself, while others scavenge for OTHER bugs to each (but still uproots your grass).

Cricket moles also are out of sight and only active at night. The winter also doesn’t kill them as they burrow into the soil for the time being.

So they can be quite the nuisance!

In this guide, you’ll learn about:

• Basic info about these pests
• Identifying mole crickets and the type of species you have
• Signs of their damage
• Whether mole crickets are harmful or not
• Why you have mole crickets in your garden, lawn, or house
• How to naturally get rid of them
• Ways to prevent mole crickets
• And more

If you have any questions, please post a comment at the end of this page.

Please note that there will be A LOT of repeating themes. This guide is meant for you to easily jump to the section you need help with.

But some pointers are exaggerated and mentioned throughout the guide because of their importance.

Sound good? Let’s get rid of those mole crickets and send them somewhere where the sun don’t shine.

What’s a mole cricket?

Mole crickets are large crickets that average about 1-2 inches.

They get their name because they behave like moles (and they look like moles).

They’re a common pest found throughout most of the United States but are especially nuisances in the southeast US in states like Florida.

If you’re in this area, your garden (and house) is vulnerable to mole crickets.

They can dig through your lawn and tear up your roots, which will then dislodge the plants.

The first reason why they’re called “mole” crickets is that they look like them!

Compared to the common house cricket, these guys have large black eyes with powerful legs used for unearthing the soil.

The second reason why they’re like moles is that these crickets bore right into the soil line and stay hidden for most of their lives.

This makes them hard to spot, but you can see the damage from the plants. Mole crickets will feed on the roots and stems of plants like turfgrasses, vegetables, soil based organism, shoots, tubers, and roots of foliage.

One thing that makes them different from regular crickets is that they’re bad jumpers. They can jump, but not high. One species, the pygmy mole cricket, can jump up to 1.4 meters, which is over 250 times its own body length- compared to regular crickets than can jump up to 3 feet!

Other names

Mole crickets have quite a few aliases because they’re found all over the US.

So you can expect that various names have been coined.

Mole crickets are also known as:

• Two clawed mole crickets
• Scudder crickets
• Gryllotalpidae
• Perty crickets
• Scapterisucs boreillia
• Giglio-Tos crickets
• Neocurtilla hexadactyla
• Southern mole crickets
• European mole crickets
• Tawny mole crickets
• Four clawed crickets
• Australian mole cricket
• Grasshopper cricket (mistakenly)
• Cricket moles

Identification – What do mole crickets look like?

Mole crickets are weird.

They look like a cross between a miniature mole and a cricket, hence the name. They can do some serious damage despite their tiny stature.

They have powerful front claws that they use to dig extensive tunnels up to 20 feet in length. Mole crickets have a shovel-like shape and can be brown, tan, black, or hybrid colors.

They’re elongated, cylindrical with jumping hind legs. The front is shorter than the hind ones.

They have broad spades with jagged edges on both sides of the head. The wings lay on the back flatly. Some species can even be golden in color. Introduced pests are gray while chestnut brown crickets are usually native species.

Regardless, they’re equally destructive to your plants!

So once you’ve identified the type of model cricket you have, it’s time to go to the next step.

If you’re still having trouble identifying the bug… check out these tips:

• Mole crickets have tiny hairs. They’re also velvety with 3 notable, segmented body parts. They have 6 legs total with two antennae. They can grow up to 2 inches but usually max out at 1 inch. The nymphs are the same, but smaller in every way.
• From the top view, they may look like they have 8 legs. The pair of antennae at the front of the head is very long, often longer than the legs themselves.
• The two spades coming out of the head on both sides are also very apparent from the dorsal perspective.
• So they can look scary. But the only thing you should be scared of is the roots of your herbaceous foliage.
• Mole crickets can jump but aren’t good at it. They also chirp at night just like the common cricket you’re used to. These crickets can fly though, which is another way how they get into your household if you have entry points.
• Nymph mole crickets look just like their adult counterparts. But they’re smaller in size and have no wings. Nymphs will stay closer to the surface while adults are deeper. The majority of damage is done by adults simply because they can eat more plant foliage.

Lifecycle

The lifecycle of Gryllotalpidae is basic. It consists of the egg, nymph/larval, and adult segments.

They can overwinter as a nymph or adults from October to march. When the heat picks up, they’ll begin tunneling or mound building.

In March, adults will begin to fly and mate.

The male mole crickets will seek females for mating. The females lay eggs, usually around the spot every year, which is why they’re often found confronting the same spot on the lawn every season.

Males will mate and then dig a small tunnel that leads up to the soil line.

There will be a small pile of soil around the hole on the surface. This is the mating chamber. It’s shaped like a funnel which amplifies the male’s call for mating during this time.

They elicit a small low cricket chirpy for 60 minutes after dusk.

You may hear the mating call during warmer temperatures from March to April. The female will then enter the chamber and mate. The mated female digs a few inches into the soil and lays eggs.

They average about 35 eggs per cluster. Females build 3-5 chambers and lay up to 150 eggs in total.

The eggs hatch about 3 weeks after and the soil temperature will affect how quickly they hatch. Warmer temperatures hatch eggs quickly while cooler temperatures can delay it.

The nymph emerges and is about 0.25”. It looks exactly like an adult. It sheds and molts up to 8 times, growing larger each time. Wing pads will grow out. They’ll feed throughout this time and produce little damage to plant roots.

Since they’re small, they don’t do much damage. But when they grow up, they can wreck your lawn.

Warm season turfgrasses are active during this time and offset the damage from their feeding. In October, they bring the pain to your lawn.

Their tunneling and feeding habits will ruin the lawn by uprooting plants. The temperature of the soil and the moisture influence their behavior. A warmer, wet climate will provoke them to be more active.

In October, they’ll begin to look for somewhere to winterize.

They hibernate and go to sleep until the temperatures pick up again. The cycle repeats. The lifecycle of a mole cricket is nothing remarkable.

Types of mole crickets

There are 3 primary species of mole crickets in the US.

It’s important to identify the type of pest that’s invading your lawn so you can take the right steps to eliminate it.

Here are the ones you’ll likely encounter:

• Tawny mole cricket (tawny mole crickets are found in Northern Carolina, Louisiana, Florida, Georgia, Alabama, Arkansas, and South Carolina, tan and larger than the other species, 2” in length).
• Southern mole cricket (this cricket can be found from Florida to Arizona. It has a much larger span than tawny mole crickets, which are focused on the southeastern US, dark brown, 1.5 inches in length)
• Short-winged mole cricket (found in FL and GA. It has shorter wings compared to tawny or southern crickets)

Out of the 3, the tawny mole cricket is the most destructive one since it feeds on the roots of grass shoots.

There are also European and Northern mole crickets, but they’re not common in the US.

Where do mole crickets come from?

Mole crickets are native to the southeastern US but can be found all over the states.

They’re usually found in coastal regions and can be identified by random grass burrows.

They prefer warmer weather compared to cooler conditions.

But they can still winterize in the dirt even during cold snaps, so don’t assume just because it’s cold means your lawn is safe!

Where do they hide?

They like lawns that are messy, unkept or have a lot of thatch.

Thatch is that spongy grass material that has a lot of runners clumped together with clippings on the surface of the soil.

Lawns that are poorly maintained (not mowed on a schedule). Dry lawns. Lawns that are overwatered or over-fertilized. These are all conditions that bring mole crickets in.

They find this kind of environment favorable and will dig out tunnels that span 10-20 feet and then hide in them for the winter.

These pests will hide in their self-dug burrows. They start out as nymphs close to the surface but will dig deeper as they age. They spend most of their lifecycle hidden from view in these burrows.

They also are only active at night, so it makes it even harder to find them. But you can look for the telltale signs of mole crickets.

They feed on grass at night during the summertime when it’s warmer- usually on the top 2cm of soil during the night. But they won’t come out to the surface unless you force them to.

Overwintered mole crickets come out in the early spring to feed.

What do they eat?

Mole crickets eat a variety of plants. There are preferred host plants for each type of species.

So sometimes, you can get away with replanting using an unpreferred grass to discourage them from infesting your lawn or garden.

The tawny mole crickets feed on herbaceous plants, turf, pasture, and other grasses. It’s even been seen eating tobacco, vegetables, bedding plants, and fruits.

Some of the most common plants that mole crickets eat are the following:

• St. Augustine grass
• Bermudagrass
• Bahia grass
• Centipede grass
• Zoysiagrass
• Other warm weather turfgrasses
• Vegetable plants
• Shoots
• Roots
• Tubers

If you have trouble identifying the type of mole cricket infesting your lawn, you’ll be able to tell from the food source it consumes.

For instance, tawny mole crickets will feed on bermudagrass or Bahai lawns. The short-winged cricket prefers Bermuda grass or St. Augustine grass.

The Southern mole cricket feeds on insects or animals instead of grass. But will resort to grass if no other host plant is available.

Centipede grasses are a good replacement for other grasses because it’s resilient to these pests. The same goes for zoysiagrass.

They’re both good for zones with a high number of these bugs because they can take a good beating from mole crickets before they show damage.

So these are excellent grasses that are somewhat hardier than their counterparts. The southern cricket is even a predator of other species but will cause mechanical damage to young plants from the tunneling while hunting for worms, grubs, or other small prey.

Do mole crickets jump?

Mole crickets can jump, but not to the extent of other crickets.

Mole crickets are equipped with powerful legs that allow them to do so.

The pygmy mole cricket can jump very well- even on water.

However, the mole crickets you’re dealing with within your lawn don’t have the jumping capabilities as normal crickets do.

Can they fly?

Yes, mole crickets can fly. Even with a full pair of wings, they rarely do so. They don’t fly far from their nest.

Adult mole crickets are capable of flight, but only select species.

For example, the short-winged mole cricket has short wings. This makes them too small to fly.

Other species, fly as part of mating. The male mole cricket will fly to seek females to mate with.

They’ve been recorded to fly over 5 miles!

Why do I have mole crickets?

Mole crickets are common in warm, humid environments. If you have a lawn, it’s fair game for them to infest it.

However, some turfs are preferable to these bugs such as unkempt lawns, thatchy grass (clumped), or overwatered lawns.

If you don’t keep your grass well-trimmed to the correct height, then it’s a potential infestation site.

Signs of mole crickets

The mole cricket damage you’ll spot is more apparent in August when they’re fully grown, which is when most homeowners notice the pests.

Because they’re hiding from view, it can be hard to spot and identify these crickets.

But there are some telltale signs of mole cricket damage that make it easier to check for mole crickets in your lawn or garden.

Here’s what to look for:

• Small dirt piles on the surface of the soil (these are from the mole crickets digging up the soil. It disrupts the soil surface just like pickleworms, bean beetles, or wood borers).
• As they dig, you’ll see these piles of dirt built up randomly by plants.
• The lawn becomes wet, moist, or spongy over time as the grass comes off the soil. If you notice more grass sticking to your shoes or feet, it could be these crickets removing their root systems which then uproots the entire blade of grass.
• They’re more likely to eat Bermuda and Bahia grass. Irregular tunnels, uprooted seedlings, damaged grassroots, ruined soil, or patches of soil are all telltale signs.
• Mole crickets will push up the soil as they burrow. They also leave runways just like moles. Tawny mole crickets feed on grass shoots, but southern mole crickets eat the organisms in the soil rather than the grass itself.
• But just their behavior from rummaging through the dirt causes the upheaval of your grass. The turf will detach from the soil, which results in spongy grass.
• They do the most damage between august to October when the warm season grasses slow down from growing. The grass doesn’t actively grow anymore, so their constant eating will result in a larger population with diminishing food sources. This is when the damage is most noticeable. Moisture levels, temperature, humidity, and overall vitality of the grass determine their feeding and digging behaviors.
• Browning, yellowing, or patchy grass lawns. The grass turns color and then wilts when the crickets eat the roots up.
• Visible tunnel systems. In areas with high mole cricket activity, the tunnels can be seen right below the soil surface. These pests will dig out random straits.
• Visible mole crickets when tilling or digging up the soil.
• In the winter, the mole crickets will overwinter (winterize). Damage will instantly stop during this period as they burrow to insulate themselves from the cold until the next season. Don’t assume they left. They’re sleeping.

Mole crickets are a nuisance in the southeast. They’re hard to see since they spend the majority of their time under the soil line while they feed on plants.

Their tunneling habit destroys the roots of plant systems underneath the soil, so plants will wither on the surface.

For lawns, this can be especially dangerous because of the extensive damage to grass plants. Mole crickets will dig their tunnels within the top 2 inches of soil. This behavior uproots grass plants which then dry out.

They also loosen the soil which can dislodge plants that require a substrate that’s firm around the primary stems. Younger seedlings may be killed by mole cricket tunnel boring.

How to check for mole crickets on the lawn (the “lawn test”)

There’s an easy DIY remedy to quickly check for the presence of mole crickets. All you need is some dish detergent and water.

Here’s how:

1. Prepare a bucket full of water (1 gallon)
2. Mix in 1-2 tablespoons of dish soap- the brand doesn’t matter
3. Gently stir until it suds
4. Wait until the evening when the sun sets
5. Pour the mixture slowly over a 2 x 2 feet space
6. If the mole crickets are hiding under the soil, they’ll quickly come out of the dirt and scatter on the surface
7. The soapy water is extremely unfavorable to them so they run away. It may take up to 5 minutes for them to surface.

Tips:

• Use less concentrated soap water if you’re scared of harming your lawn. You can dilute it with double the water volume or half the soap dose.
• Note that if you see a few mole crickets running away, it’s not necessarily an infestation. If you see more than 3 per square foot, then it’s an infestation. If you only see 1-2 in a 2 x 2 area, it may just be a passageway for them and isn’t the site of their infestation.
• Regardless, you should assume that there’s a “nest” nearby and find it. Your lawn is at risk if you have more than 0.
• Rinse the soap out of the lawn when you’re done. This will dilute the detergent and prevent damage to your grass.

Are mole crickets harmful?

Mole crickets aren’t poisonous and don’t bite unless disturbed.

They possess the ability to bite through and probably can if you provoke them enough.

However, they’ll scurry away when disturbed for the most part. Mole crickets are not harmful to humans and don’t carry disease, venom, or poison. They’re only harmful to your turf.

Regardless, you should not provoke them on purpose as they can bite. The same goes for pets like dogs.

If your turf has a mole cricket infestation, keep pets out until it’s taken care of.

Should you leave them alone?

No, you should get rid of them.

If you leave them on your lawn, they’ll quickly overwhelm it and uproot all your grass. Mole crickets have a tendency to reinfest the same patch of grass every season if not handled.

How to kill mole crickets in the lawn naturally

These guys can be hard to eradicate because they’re hiding beneath the soil surface. Mole crickets are only active at night (in other words, they’re nocturnal).

Unless you’re outside on the lawn at dusk with a flashlight, you probably won’t see them so easily. Just for that reason alone, it makes it extremely difficult to deal with these buggers.

Whether you’re using commercial sprays or DIY home remedies, be patient because you’ll need them.

One thing you can use to your benefit is that mole crickets are extremely vulnerable when they’re still young.

When they’re still nymphs, they stay closer to the soil surface.

This makes them easier to remove from the earth. Once they start feeding on the plant material, they get bigger.

They’ll learn to dig further down which makes them even harder to eliminate.

Introduce beneficial nematodes

The proven natural remedy for mole crickets is to use beneficial nematodes. They consume the cricket from the inside.

These are naturally occurring parasites that kill the mole crickets with bacteria. The bacteria eat the crickets. There are many nematode products available on the market.

Look for these nematodes:

• Steinernema scapterisci
• Acheta domesticus
• Steinernema neocurtillis

Ensure that your local ordinances allow for the use of these nematodes.

Note that you should only use nematodes for the adult mole crickets. It’s not very effective for nymphs. Apply in spring or fall.

Use as directed. You can buy these nematodes online or at nurseries. Some may not work in your soil conditions, so it’s important to do research first.

For effective control, it depends on:

• Whether the mole crickets are nymphs are adults
• The current climate
• The availability of food sources

So before you go all out dropping nematodes and spraying insecticides, be sure you’re targeting the right opportunity.

If you’re using nematodes, then you should apply in early spring for the adults. If you’re using sprays that are made for babies, then you should apply them in the summertime.

When the nymphs hatch during summer, you’ll see damage from them in late July.

If you didn’t notice it before, it’s too late to kill the nymphs. Target the adults for next season.

See how you need to think before you spray so you can kill those darn bugs effectively?

Here’s the summary:

In the early spring, treat adults using parasitic nematodes which can help attack the female adults.

This will stop them from laying eggs. It can help reduce the tunneling behavior too.

In the summer, you can treat nymphs because they’re vulnerable. This is the ideal time.

Pick one or the other. Not both.

Use mole cricket repelling plants

Some plants are known to naturally repel cricket pests that can be utilized throughout your garden.

Mole crickets are omnivores, so they eat both plant and animal matter. But there are some plants that naturally repel these buggers.

Check your hardiness to see what grows well in your area.

Some plants that can be used as natural mole cricket repellents:

• Marigolds
• Calendula
• Chrysanthemums
• Lavender
• Partridge peas
• False buttonweed

Place them around your plants that are being eaten by mole crickets. They can also work around the perimeter of your garden as a deterrent to stop multiple types of bugs from coming in.

Introduce natural predators

Mole crickets have a few predators that will gladly gobble them up.

But the problem is getting them to come out and make themselves a target for said predators to prey on them.

These predators will work for you 24/7. You just need to make your lawn favorable to them so they come in and hunt for prey to eat.

What animals eat mole crickets?

Some predatory insects include the crabronid wasp, tachinid flies, nematodes, toads, snakes raccoons, foxes, owls, egrets, chickens, cranes, armadillos, beetles, assassin bugs, ants, lizards, wolf spiders, mice, shrews, rats, skunks, livestock, reptiles, amphibians, and other bird species.

You’re sure to find one or two of these predators in your backyard. Do some reading to see how you can bring in more of them.

Then when you water your lawn, the mole crickets surface so the predators can eat them. Easier than it sounds, but possible.

Forcing them to the surface

Using plain water from the hose, spray down the infested areas in your garden. This will make them come closer to the surface.

When they come up to the soil line, spray them down with dish soap to drown them. Mole crickets will burrow deep into dry soil but will come out if the soil is dry enough.

This is why when you water your turfgrass, you may see visible crickets. Using dish soap will also force them out.

When you’ve found where they’re hiding, you should contain that area and get rid of them because they have a habit of infesting the same grass area over and over every season.

This will let you find out where they’re hiding in the sol and you can go from there. Simply by flushing them out, you can map out the extent of the damage/infestation.

Put some markers on your lawn to mark where they’re concentrated. This will make it a lot easier for you later on so you know where to target.

Take care of your soil

Keeping your soil maintained so that it’s balanced is important. These bugs love thatch-like grass that’s just clumpy and ugly.

If your lawn is in tip-top shape with well-balanced soil nutrients, it makes the environment much more unfavorable to them.

Test your soil so you know its metrics of it regularly. If the NPK ratio for your grass is off, use soil amendments to fix it.

This will help keep your grass going while deterring insects from infesting it. Who wouldn’t want that?

Don’t overwater

Water only as much as your lawn needs.

Overwatering will not only make it easier to penetrate mole crickets plus keep them nice and moist for them to burrow through, but it also introduces other pests to your garden.

You should irrigate according to the grass type, soil type, temperature, season, and grass height.

Stop fertilizing

Overfertilizing your grass will lead to nutrient buildup in the soil column, which is prime real estate for mole crickets.

Avoid fertilizing during periods of infestation until you get their numbers down. Maintain proper soil nutrients by regularly testing it, but only fertilize if necessary.

But don’t mindlessly fertilize it for no reason.

Keep the lawn mown

Mowing your lawn at the right height for the grass species will help keep grass-eating insects (like grasshoppers or glassy winged sharpshooters).

Don’t mow it too short to where it’s no longer grass, but at the same time, you should be mowing it when it gets overgrown.

Find out what the correct height is for your grass type and then mow and you need to keep it tidy and clean. Doing this regularly will help benefit your grass plus keep bugs out.

When should I use insecticides?

As with all soil-dwelling insects, getting rid of these pests is difficult.

When insecticides are used in June when the eggs hatch, it’s most effective

The poisons are pretty much useless against their eggs, but once they hatch, the insecticides can begin taking effect. You want to capture this moment in time as they’re most vulnerable.

Vegetable plants can be protected for later seasons when insecticide is applied at the right time. If used too late or early, it can be pretty ineffective against mole crickets.

As with any commercial product, use it as directed. Read the label. Exercise caution and common sense.

Successful mole cricket management isn’t easy. It’ll test your patience. You’ll also have to monitor the progress too.

It’s not as easy as spraying insecticide. Mole cricket killed. Done.

Successfully taking care of the issue will take time plus good cultural practices.

What insecticides are good for mole crickets?

Some common insecticides used against mole crickets include the following.

Pyrethroids

• Ortho Bug-B-Gon Insect Killer for Lawns
• Bayer BioAdvanced 24 Hour Lawn Insect Killer RTS
• Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer For Lawns Granules
• Bonide Eight Insect Control, Home & Garden RTS
• Martin’s Bifen I/T Concentrate

Nenoictonioids

• Bonide Annual Grub Beater Insect Control with Systemaxx
• Gordon’s Grub No More Granules

Organophosphates

• Bayer BioAdvanced 24 Hour Grub Killer Plus
• Pyrethroid & Neonicotinoid Insecticide Combinations
• Bayer BioAdvanced Complete Insect Killer for Soil & Turf Granules 2 Way Formula

Mole Cricket Baits

• Southern Ag Mole Cricket Bait
• Advion Insect Granules

If the neonicotinoid you’re using contains imidacloprid, they’re usually applied in July to kill the small bugs. Irrigate before applying. Moist soil helps the poison penetrate the soil and gets them to eat at the surface.

Use when average temperatures at night are above 60F for best results. But check the label first and use it as directed.

Other synthetic pyrethroids include lambda or gamma cyhalothrin, bifenthrin, beta-cyfluthrin, zeta cypermethrin, or permethrin.

Organophosphates such as trichlorfon are effective as well.

Winter insecticides are not effective because they’re sleeping during this time. If there’s a noticeable jump in insect numbers, you can apply during the summertime.

The larger insects are hibernating during the winter, which most insecticides are useless against anyway. So don’t waste your money or time on them.

When you’ve got the locations of all infestation sites, continue checking it throughout the season for pests.

Pesticides should be used in warmer conditions with moist substrate because if it’s dry, the crickets will dig deep even digger to reach the wetter soil.

This means that your pesticides need to penetrate even deeper into the earth which can be difficult to do.

June is when the eggs hatch and the nymphs are still vulnerable to poisons. Apply additional control as needed later in the summertime.

Even if you go all out with commercial products, getting rid of mole crickets permanently is hard because they just need wet soil and warm temperatures, which is pretty much the entire southern border.

You may need to go to the next step and consult with a professional.

Do not use products early in the spring or winter.

There are no nymphs and using pesticides on adults is pointless because the adults will perish after laying eggs.

It’s the babies you need to worry about. Summer applications are very effective on nymphs. Springtime sprays are good for adults.

You can target either, but not both because it’s extra effort and more cost.

Does Sevin kill mole crickets?

Sevin insecticides have no mixed reviews for mole crickets. You should use only products that list mole crickets as an insect it actually kills.

Killing mole crickets with poisons is the choice that gardeners fall back on because they can’t get rid of them using conventional techniques.

There are two options that you can use for mole crickets- baits or insecticides. Sevin is popular because of its low price and broad spectrum effectiveness.

Mole cricket insecticides

Insecticides can be sprays, granules, liquids, powders, or other applications that are administered to repel and kill mole crickets.

They can be further broken down into pyrethroids, neonicotinoids (clothianidin), or organophosphates.

Commercial pest control products are synthetic and can be dangerous if you’re growing edible plants, have people or pets come into contact with it, and are bad for the environment.

You want to read the label carefully and make sure that you know how to use it. Read the warnings and use as directed.

Do NOT use it if it doesn’t specifically say it works on mole crickets.

Some insecticides are organic or natural. These are preferred over pure synthetics. Most sprays will be used in the summer to kill the nymphs as are they more susceptible to insecticides.

Note that mole crickets can develop resistance to repeated use of these products. If they don’t work or are used to working, it can very well be the case.

If this is the case, you should use a different class of insecticide. A combo of products contains two classes of insecticides to help prevent mole cricket resistance.

For example, you can use a neonicotinoid in the early summer egg hatch. Then you use a pyrethroid for the nymphs in the second-gen. Most baits contain carbaryl or indoxacarb, which can be used to reduce resistance.

In summary, you keep rotating your class of pesticides so the mole crickets can’t resist because they constantly change.

Mole cricket baits

Cricket baits can be purchased online or at your local home improvement store.

These should be your first line of defense before you start using sprays or insecticides. That’s because they’re easier to apply and stay confined to an area.

This makes it easier to prevent pets or people from coming into contact with the bait.

When should I treat my lawn for mole crickets?

When applying a lawn insecticide, be sure to read the label so you use it at the right time.

Believe it or not, timing is extremely important. The method of application also matters.

Water the lawn well before you apply baits or granular or liquid pesticides. The majority will need to be watered into the lawn for them to work well, so this is why your water first.

But after you apply the baits, avoid watering for 3 days because it’ll dissolve the baits. Feed and seed stores, garden centers, landscape apply stores, and online stores carry baits.

Generally, they contain toxins that will kill mole crickets upon ingestion. They’re coated with a powerful bait that brings them in.

Once they ingest the bait, they’ll be killed over time. These products do not work instantly. They kill adults in the spring.

Note that mole crickets eat at night and are not diurnal. Therefore, place the baits in the midday before they come out.

Watch out for rain, wind, or plant watering as these can render them ineffective or wash them away. You should refrain from watering your areas where the bait is applied.

Again, use the baits as directed. Applying the baits or any other insecticide can be dangerous.

So you need to wear protection or leave it to a pro to handle it for you. You may need equipment that’s not easy to obtain such as filter masks, acid-resistant gloves, and protective face shields.

You may need even more to administer it safely.

Hire a professional pest control company

While they’re easy to flush out, they’re not easy to completely eliminate just like any other borer.

You’ll likely need a professional with industrial pesticides to get rid of them- they can also help set up prevention of infestations in the future too.

Mole crickets get more destructive the older they get, so having a professional by your side is imperative if you can’t do it yourself.

Shop around and get multiple quotes from local pest control companies.

See which ones offer a service guarantee. Additionally, look for ‘green’ or natural/organic insecticides, especially if you’re growing edible plants like fruits or veggies.

How to get rid of mole crickets in the house

Sometimes, mole crickets will find their way into your household. This is unpleasant, as they’re quite big and comparable to a cockroach in terms of surprise.

If you find these pests inside your house, try not to freak out. Mole crickets indoors don’t damage your furniture, fabrics, clothing, etc.

They also won’t infest the house, unless you have indoor plants for indoor plant systems inside.

Simply sweet them up using a broom and dustpan and then dispose of them outdoors. They’re easy to catch if you put the dustpan on one side and then “scare” them towards it.

Remember that they’re not poisonous and don’t carry pathogens, but they can bite if you disturb them enough. Avoid touching them directly. Keep pets away from loose mole crickets in the household.

Flying species can easily get in through the windows or doors. If you have damaged window screens, patio screens, or other cracks in these areas then they have no issue coming inside.

This is why it’s important to keep windows in good condition and fix weather-stripping that’s damaged.

Since these crickets are so small, they can get into the house just like normal household crickets.

You can get rid of them in the same way as any other cricket by blocking entry points, rendering the environment unfavorable, and removing possible infestation sites. Setting up repellents and traps works well.

First, make sure your home is well sealed so they can’t get in.

Remove infestation sites

If you notice that indoor plants are infested, remove them and get rid of them. Check for other areas that contain soil.

Be sure to check under patio boards or other parts of your house that has soil.

Set up passive repellents and build traps

Sprinkle diatomaceous earth around the per miters of your home.

Use organic, food-grade powder. This sharp crystalline powder will pierce and then dehydrate the crickets. Use as directed.

You can even put some in the soil of your houseplants. Be sure to keep pets and people out of the area until the mole crickets are gone.

Use sticky traps or liquid baits to catch them passively. Check to see if they’re getting caught. Use these setups as instruments to measure how well your DIY pest control is doing.

Continue to monitor for mole crickets

If you still see them coming in, the house may be harboring an infestation site from indoor soil or there could be a foundational crack you’re missing.

There can be entry points that are hidden behind walls or other objects that mole crickets are using to get inside.

Consider hiring either an exterior or handyman to fix the issue.

Will mole crickets eat veggies?

Mole crickets can damage vegetable plants if they feed on their roots of it.

Their activity can also uproot seedlings plants, which is obviously dangerous to them.

If you have mole crickets in your vegetable garden, take the same steps outlined prior in this guide to manage them.

Further reading

You may find these references helpful:

• Mole Crickets in Turf | UGA Cooperative Extension – UGA
• Mole Cricket | Horticulture and Home Pest News – IA
• Mole Crickets | Oklahoma State University
• Mole Cricket – Field Guide to Common Texas Insects – TAMU
• Mole Crickets – UF/IFAS Extension – University of Florida

Did you get rid of the mole crickets?

Whether you have these bugs in your yard, lawn, garden, or inside the house, they’re a real nuisance once they start burrowing.

But there are some ways to naturally get rid of them using the techniques outlined in this guide.

It’s hard to fully manage and eliminate mole crickets (you probably know by now).

You’ll likely need to hire the help of a professional exterminator if you want to completely eliminate them.

But in the meantime, you can exercise some basic DIY solutions like spraying them down with soapy water, using repellents, or using baits or insecticides.

Do you have questions about your specific mole cricket problem? Post them in the comments section below or message me!

If you handled these pests before and have some tips or suggestions, please post them for other readers.

The post How to Get Rid of Mole Crickets Naturally (DIY Guide) appeared first on BugWiz.

Who can bear to watch those gorgeous purple, orange, white, blue, pink, or red blooms getting munched by pests?

These precious flowers have established themselves to be a favorite staple of gardeners.

Easy to grow, smell amazing, and have many colors for both indoor and outdoor environments. Plant beds. Hanging baskets. Or a container planted. Geraniums fit the bill.

Being so popular, they’ve also harbored a large number of pests. Budworms, caterpillars, scale, mites, thrips, aphids, snails, and…rodents?

In this guide, you’ll learn about:

• The common bugs you’ll find eating geraniums
• How to get rid of them naturally
• Ways to prevent geranium bugs (keep them off)

If you have questions, post them using the comments section at the end of this guide. Feel free to bookmark it for easy reference later on.

Sounds good? Let’s get your geraniums back to business.

Last updated: 8/13/22.

Common geranium bugs

Here’s a list of bugs you’ll find on geraniums. It’s important to identify what’s eating your plant first. You may find that info below.

Budworms

If you see small worms or caterpillars that curl up on the leaves of your germanium, don’t freak out!

These are budworms. Also known as geranium budworms because they’re so commonly found on these plants. The official name is “tobacco budworm”.

They’re extremely common on geranium leaves, especially in the late summertime. Some people even call them the “geranium budworm” because of how common they are- but they’re NOT exclusive to geraniums.

Helicoverpa virescens may be small, but they can do extensive damage to your plants. Geraniums are one of their favorite plants to eat because of the soft tender foliage and how easy it is to climb.

Since budworms are so common, they deserve a dedicated section with extensive detail. If you still have questions, please leave a comment.

Identification

Budworms are tiny. They’re the larvae form of moths, which means that they’ll morph into adult moths later in life.

Sadly, they do most of their damage when they’re in the worm phase. Their only job is to eat. The budworm is about 1.5 inches in size when fully grown.

They can be green, brown, yellow, or any combo. Worms are segmented with hairy bodies and a white stripe going down their back.

Damage

Damage from budworms are holes in leaves, damaged geranium flower buds, jagged edges, wilting flowers, failed blooms, and dropped foliage.

These budworms can eat entire flower buds off your plants, or chomp into the bud center. The buds will then fail to bloom. Holes in the leaves are also common as they’re not picky over what they eat.

Budworms are found in the buds of geraniums, hence the name budworm. If you see your flower buds being eaten with a skeleton left behind, these are telltale signs of budworms.

Even if the bud blooms, the petals will be damaged and have holes. Or more commonly, the bud won’t open during bloom season because of the damage from the budworms

Control

Budworms can be managed by using multiple natural home remedies.

The most effective and cheapest one? Use your fingers!

Put on your favorite pair of gardening gloves and get a bucket. Fill it with soapy water (1 squirt of dish detergent to 1 liter of water). Then start picking them off and putting them into the bucket.

The soapy water will kill the worms.

Do this every time you water your geraniums. Check on the buds regularly to see if what you are doing is working. Budworms can be found on the buds, flowers, or leaves.

Larvae will come out at dusk when they’re most active. In the daytime, they’re usually hiding at the base of the plant.

Picking by hand is kinda gross, but don’t worry about irritation. Budworms don’t bite or transmit dangerous vectors for the most part, so it’s safe to handle them.

But you should wear gardening gloves or some other protection just in case they crawled over some virus or bacteria. This way you don’t transfer them to other plants or yourself.

Other than handpicking, you can use the same DIY directly on them. Homemade bug spray for geraniums is easy to make and cheap.

Just mix a few parts of liquid dish soap with hot water. Put in some cayenne pepper. Stir until it bubbles. Then put it into a spray bottle. Spray down your geranium where budworms are present.

The soapy water will kill them slowly. You should remove any budworms you see manually and then toss them. This will prevent the budworm bodies from bringing in even MORE bugs. Yikes!

Budworms will hang out in the soil during the winter. They overwinter there to hide out from extreme dips in temperature. Therefore, they winterize right under your plants.

This is where the baby budworms (nymphs or larvae) will hide until the spring.

If you till or sterilize the soil during the winter, you can either manually remove the larvae or even kill them. Baking soil can help eliminate pests that are hiding in it.

Here’s a guide that covers how to sterilize your soil. It’s not written for budworms specifically, but it’s OK. The process is the same. Changing the soil completely will eliminate the next cycle of budworms.

If baking soil in the oven doesn’t sound too appetizing for you, try replacing the soil instead. This will remove the overwintering larvae in the soil of your geranium.

Use fresh, newly quarantined soil. This will reseed the soil with fresh nutrients too.

Spinosad is commonly suggested for budworms because it works well. Spinosad can be considered organic if you’re growing other organic crops in your garden. It depends on the mixture you buy. So be sure to check the label if that matters to you.

Spinosad will kill budworms effectively, but it also kills beneficial pollinators like bees. This is why I discourage using it even if it’s “natural” for getting rid of budworms on geraniums.

Bees won’t come out after dusk, so if you must use spinosad, use it then. It should be completely dry before morning so the bees won’t be killed by it.

Bacillus thuringiensis works against other caterpillars, but not budworms. Bt doesn’t work on geranium budworms because the worms don’t consume the Bt for it to be effective.

Malathion is synthetic and will kill budworms as well. But it also kills beneficial pollinators. You should avoid using it unless you have exhausted all your other options. Use as the label says.

Insecticides

If the budworms are just too much, consider using commercial insecticides.

This should be your last resort. Use natural or organic sprays when possible. Read the label. Make sure it works for budworms. Use as directed.

Pesticides that work well against budworms include compounds that include permethrin, esfenvalerate, cyfluthrin, or bifenthrin are ingredients that are effective against most geranium pests.

Here are some listings of what these insecticide products look like (links to Amazon):

• Permethrin
• Esfenvalerate
• Cyfluthrin
• Bifenthrin

Before buying, make sure that it’s suitable for geraniums and the pest you’re dealing with is listed on the label. Always use as directed. Read all warnings. Keep pets and people out of the area. Some insectaries are NOT safe for beneficial insects.

Not all products will be suitable for your specific insect! It must be listed on the label.

Insecticidal soap is effective against smaller bugs that have soft bodies. You can use it for budworms, cutworms, aphids, etc.

But it’s not as useful against larger insects or hard-shelled ones like caterpillars, mollusks (snails), or four lined plant bugs.

With these tips, you should be able to handle most of the budworm population.

Aphids

Aphids are everywhere. On everything. Geraniums are no exception. These guys are the size of a small winged pinhead. They feed on the sap of your leaves by piercing them with their mouthparts.

They’re usually found on the bottom of the leaf surfaces. You may even see so many of them climbing up the stem of your geranium like ants.

In higher numbers, they can wreak havoc on the plant and then suck out all the precious plant sap which can be dangerous for younger plants.

Aphids are simple to identify. If you’ve ever done any gardening, you probably already know how to spot them. See this guide to identifying aphids.

Aphids will leave behind sticky residue that turns sooty and brown. Ants will come in to feed on this mold which then really makes your geraniums ugly. The moldy substance gathers dirt which will then make your geranium leaves turn color.

Handling aphids is a multi-pronged approach. You’ll need to use a combination of different techniques in order to fully eliminate them.

Start with spraying them off with a powerful hose to blast them off. While this may seem weird, it’s wildly effective. When you water your plants, spray them at the same time.

It’ll dislodge them from the leaves and if repeated enough, they’ll leave. Be sure to check the undersides of the foliage and the other side of the stems.

You can also “wipe” your plant with a sponge. Use a mixture of soapy water to clean it. If you have sensitive plants in your garden, use plant-based soaps instead.

This will kill them instantly. If the soap you’re using doesn’t kill them, you can use a commercial insecticidal soap. The soap coats their body and then suffocates them on the spot.

Neem oil can also be handy against aphids.

Prune off parts of your plant that are infested with aphids. There’s no need to save the foliage that they’ve eaten. It’s just plant fodder for them. Cut it off so that your geraniums don’t waste energy trying to conserve it.

Also, bringing in natural predators. Ladybugs will help feed on them. If your geranium is still small, you can put it into a mini greenhouse filled with ladybugs to help eliminate the pests.

Four-lined plant bugs

The nymphs are small with developing wings. They’re red with black wing pads. Then they turn orange with larger wing pads that have a light-colored stripe.

When fully grown, the adults are greenish or yellow with visible black stripes going down the wings (hence the name). The head is orange with green legs. Four lined plant bugs max out at ⅓ inches in length.

Four-lined plant bugs can be safely ignored if you haven’t seen visible damage from them. They’re usually harmless- only slightly affecting the appearance of geraniums. They suck the sap from plants.

Eggs hatch in late spring on the geranium leaves and the nymphs will feed on the topside of the leaves for one month. Then they molt into adults.

You may notice dark, round, or sunken spots on the leaves. The spots may become transparent with small holes. Severe feeding can brown the leaves or wilt them. The damage from four-lined plant bugs looks very similar to leaf spot.

To get rid of them, check for insets in June. These pests will drop to the soil level when disturbed. Smaller infestations are OK and can usually be ignored.

Removed plants that are damaged by gently pruning. Host plants that have eggs inserted must be removed.

Insecticidal soap can kill the nymphs, especially if they contain pyrethrin. The spray must be sprayed directly onto the pest to kill it.

Other insecticides to consider are bifenthrin, permethrin, or cyfluthrin. Use as directed by the label. Avoid using synthetic insecticides if possible. They may be dangerous to humans, pets, or other plants. Do NOT use it if you’re growing edibles in the garden.

It must be safe for geraniums and must have four lined plant bugs on the label. Some pesticides may harm beneficial insects.

Spider mites

Spider mites are those near microscopic mites that feed on the sap of your leaves. They’re extremely hard to see unless you look closely.

These bugs are so small that they can float in the wind. They pierce the leaves and will suck out precious nutrients. Over time, it can hinder your geranium’s ability to retain water. Younger plants are more vulnerable to spider mite damage.

Similar to other mites, spider mites can be controlled by using horticultural oils. Neem oil in particular is commonly suggested in the community. Use it to fully coat your geraniums. The neem will prevent spider mites from being able to suck up the precious plant juice.

Set up sticky adhesives to help catch the mites that are crawling around. These can catch mites that crawl across it passively. It also serves as a way to see if the spider mite population is decreasing over time.

Diatomaceous earth can be sprinkled on the soil surface to help dehydrate mites. Sprinkle it around the soil bed, perimeter of the container, and a ring of it on the plant stem. Use food-grade, organic diatomaceous earth –check Amazon.

See this guide for more info on spider mite control.

Tip: Since spider mites are so tiny, it’s hard to spot them. But once you see your geranium wilting, dropping leaves, or turning yellow/brown, it’s time to take a closer look. You can shake the leaves on a contrasting colored paper (white paper for red mites), then use your phone’s camera function and zoom in to see.

Thrips

If you prefer using commercial sprays, thrips can be controlled by using horticultural oils, neem oil, or insecticidal soap. Use as directed.

Whatever you choose to use, make sure it’s actually effective against thrips by doing your research. There’s no need to introduce some compounds into your garden, especially if you’re growing edibles, for nothing.

Sprinkling diatomaceous earth around the primary stems of your plants can also help deter some hard-shelled bugs. Use sticky adhesives. Or lure in natural predators that eat thrips.

Thrips usually won’t do enough damage to kill your geraniums, so they’re not too bad of a threat. Thrips can be found everywhere- from inside to house to your photo frames.

They’re found in USDA hardiness zones 3-11, so that spans a wide range across the US.

Cotton cushion scale

Cotton cushion scales generally infect woody ornamentals and crops such as citrus, nandina, or pittosporum. It produces a white cotton substrate that makes it easy to ID on your plants.

Check for scale on the leaf veins of your geranium. They leave behind white honeydew which is obvious.

Scale is orange-brown with elongated white egg sacs. This is the case for females.

The egg sac contains up to 800 eggs, which can be up to 0.5 inches in length. The eggs will hatch into crawlers. They seek out leaf veins and produce white cotton.

Scale nymphs are red with black legs and visible antennae. When they deposit their honeydew, it usually will bring ants in. keep ants out by using ant baits or Tanglefoot.

Check the sticky substrate every week to stop it from turning moldy. When it becomes moldy, ants will cross it. Keeping ants off will let other predators eat the scale. Wrap the stems of the geranium using a collar of duct tape or fabric wrap. If the sticky honeydew gathers debris, it provides “highways” for other insects to cross.

Double-sided tape can be used to catch scale nymphs. Wrap several stems near active feeding sites with clear double-sided tape. Change it once per week. Use it to catch them from crossing the parts of your geraniums.

Damage from cottony cushion scale leaves geraniums defoliate. They can lose blossoms, turn sooty black, or have decreased vitality. They suck up sap from the leaves.

Predators can help eat up some of the scale population. Natural enemies of scale include Vidalia beetles, parasitic wasps, or parasitic flies. The Vidalia beetle is a ladybug that’s excellent for cottony cushion scale control. Parasitic flies are also good predators. Both of them can be utilized to kill the cushion scale.

Mealybugs

Encourage parasitic wasps to your garden to help keep mealybugs off your geraniums.

Some predators that eat mealybugs include the mealybug destroyer, ladybugs, lacewings, spiders, pirate bugs, etc. Depending on where you’re located, the availability of predators will vary.

Find out what bugs are in your zone and research how to attract more of them.

For example, ladybugs can be brought in by providing a water source, shelter, and decoy plants. Lady bugs will eat up the larvae of mealybugs without damaging your plants.

Neem oil is highly effective against mealybugs and can be purchased for cheap. Use pure, natural neem oil extract. Apply during non-peak hours when the temperatures are cool by spraying it onto your geraniums. Wash off the excess neem.

It’ll leave behind a residual layer on the surfaces of your plants which will help keep mealybugs off. Read the warnings and use them as directed. Some people or pets may be sensitive to neem, such as cats.

Insecticidal soap can be used to help kill the mealybugs. Use an organic or natural one if possible. Use it systemically and only as a last resort.

See this guide for more info on mealybug control.

Weevils

Weevils love to eat tender plants. Evil weevils don’t usually show in geraniums, but if they do, the leaves will seer the roots or remove the outer layer.

This results in the geranium having stunted or poor growth with wilting leaves and failed blooms.

Vine weevils generally don’t eat geraniums unless they have no other host plants to infest. If weevils are spotted, they can be removed by hand. Setting up physical barriers works well for larger insects, such as weevils or caterpillars.

Diatomaceous earth can be scattered in the plant bed to help keep them out. Use hose water to blast them off during watering.

Pyrethrin-based sprays will kill weevils but must be used safely because they’ll also kill beneficial insects. Use as directed. Make sure the spray you use works for weevils.

Check out this guide for more info on weevils.

Snails and slugs

Place small bowls of alcohol or stale beer around your geraniums.

The snails can’t resist the alcohol and will slug themselves into the liquid, which will kill them. The bowl should be shallow enough so that they can crawl into it easily.

You may want to bury it a few inches so the edge of the bowl is aligned with the soil surface. This is a cheap and effective way to get them off your geraniums.

Snails will only eat geraniums at night. They leave behind skeletonized leaves or holes in leaves depending on the size of the snail.

Diatomaceous earth is excellent for slow moving insects like slugs. The DE must be food-grade- organic if possible.

Just sprinkle it around your geranium’s stems so that the slugs need to touch it in order to climb up. You can also add it to the soil or on the perimeter of potted geraniums.

Diatomaceous earth is coarse so it pierces the slugs underside. Use a thick ring of it around the primary root to keep them out. Replenish in rain or heavy winds.

Do NOT use salt to kill them. It will contaminate the soil and make it extra salty, which raises soil salinity to dangerous levels for geranium.

Although slugs and snails will destroy smaller plants overnight, they rarely will do major damage to established ones.

They prefer organic matter that’s fallen into the soil and already easy to reach. If your geranium’s leaves are in good shape, they’ll look to other plant matter unless there’s nothing to eat.

Slugs will eat from the outside in, so leaves that are jagged, irregular, or chewed may be due to snails or slugs.

Get rid of places snails/slugs can hide. Remove stones, debris, or other things that they can hide under. If you have garden decor near your geraniums, relocate them.

Set up melons outside near active sites. Melon rinds can help bring them to one single area. Then you pick up the rind and catch the snails under it.

Crushed eggshells can help deter them because they don’t want to crawl on rough surfaces. The eggshells can be crushed finely and then used in the soil. Sawdust, sand, or diatomaceous earth are also good for repelling them naturally. These are safe to use for geraniums.

Physical barriers can help keep snails out. Use copper barriers or copper foil around your geranium stems. Or build a perimeter of copper surrounding your plant bed so that snails are forced to come into contact with it.

The copper will give them a small electrical shock which will force them to turn around. Copper requires no electricity and will continue to work until the copper tarnishes.

Similar to caterpillars, snails can be removed manually and then dunked into a container of soapy water.

Limit mulch or compost as this attracts slugs to your garden.

Caterpillars, worms, and grubs

Caterpillars may show up on geraniums. Most of the time, they’re actually mistaken for budworms.

Other common germanium caterpillars include cabbage loopers (cabbage moths), leafrollers, leaf eaters, plume moths, and cutworms.

Caterpillar populations will vary depending on where you’re situated.

Severe infestations can be handled by simply using a powerful hose and then spraying them off. Doing this over and over will disturb them to the point where they’ll leave in search of other plants to eat.

Caterpillars are also large compared to other geranium pests, so they can be removed by hand.

Because there are so many different types of caterpillars, it’s going to be difficult to list each species’ profile individually. Regardless of which one is eating your geraniums, the techniques to get rid of them are the same. What works on one caterpillar should work for others.

Start with manual removal. Removing them by hand using gardening gloves will work over time. Caterpillars will feed at night (nocturnal), so you’ll need to come out at night to hunt them down.

If removing them by hand isn’t enough, try using bacillus thuringiensis. It’s a microbe that can be used for organic caterpillar control.

Bt will only kill foliage-eating caterpillars and will leave beneficial insects intact. Read the label and use it directly. Bt will take time to work.

It causes the caterpillars to swell up but will take a few days. The larger the insect, the longer it’ll take to kill it. Smaller caterpillars may be killed overnight. Bt is most effective when used early.

Some gardeners will use it even when bugs aren’t present early in the season or when pests are small. Bt will need to be reapplied when it rains or after washing off your plants.

It’s effective against tobacco budworms, geranium budworms, cabbage loopers, fall cankerworms, etc. It can kill beneficial caterpillars like butterfly caterpillars, so be wary of that.

Greenflies

Greenflies are a variety of aphid. Don’t assume they’re only green- they can be white, yellow, blue, pink, or brown- some are even wingless.

They do extensive damage to the plant leaves and will cause them to grow in weird, distorted shapes. If your geranium leaves are misshapen, it may be due to these pests.

Greenflies can be controlled by system sprays. These sprays are put into the plant’s leaves which then ingest the liquid. When the greenflies eat the leaves, they ingest the spray as well.

This will kill greenflies over time. If you choose to go this route, be sure the spray you use is applied under the leaves where greenflies tend to hang out. Read the label and use it as directed.

Damage can cause leaves to become distorted or blooms can fall off.

Utilize sticky traps to catch them. Set them up so that the flies come into contact with them on active feeding sites. Over time, you should see fewer files on it if whatever you’re doing is working. If not, it’s time to change plans.

Greenflies can also be eliminated by bringing in predators like birds or reptiles.

Similar to aphids, they show up in clusters. Use insecticidal soaps, neem oil, or biological insecticides. Prune off infested parts of your plants. Spray them with a hose regularly. Get rid of greenflies using the same remedies as aphids.

Cutworms

Cutworms are easy to keep away from your geraniums. Get a toilet paper tube and then cut it across so it unfolds into a flat sheet. Wrap the base of your geranium with the cardboard, then tape it back up.

Push one end into the dirt so cutworms can’t dig their way through. This should be enough as a physical barrier to keep cutworms off.

You can also use the traditional means of worm control- such as permethrin-based insectaries, sticky adhesive, or using natural predators like birds or chickens. Removing them manually by hand and disposing of them into a container of water with dish detergent is also effective for smaller infestations.

For passive control, consider neem oil or cutworm insecticides.

See this guide for more tips on getting rid of cutworms.

Cankerworms

The fall cankerworm is a caterpillar-like bug that loves to feed on young, tender geranium leaves. They leave behind small holes in the leaves.

The leaves become skeletonized with just the leaf veins remaining. These worms generally show up because of other host plants but may migrate over to your geraniums.

If you have oak, ash, blackcherry, basswood, maple, or other large trees in your garden, it’s likely the source of the worms. Check there first to eliminate them. Insecticides, manual removal, pruning, and regular adhesives can get rid of them.

Sciarid flies

Sciarid flies are small, tiny black flies that almost look like fungus gnats.

You can find them on the compost level of the plant where their larvae will eat the roots. They love peat-based compost, so if you’re using one for your geraniums, it’s a big target.

Even though sciarid flies are scary looking, they rarely do enough damage to kill geraniums. They’re only active for about 1-2 months during the growing season, so they don’t have enough time to do major damage to established geraniums.

Younger plants can use some help by reducing watering, regular pruning, or using some diluted Jeyes fluid.

Geranium sawflies

Sawflies are just as common as budworms IMO. These sawflies start out as caterpillars. They’ll eat your geranium leaves as they feed. Later on, they spin a cocoon to change into their adult form.

The caterpillar offspring will do the majority of the damage.

Sawfly larvae are dark green with darker heads. They’re found on the leaves of geraniums (but don’t feed on them exclusively).

Sawfly larvae will damage the plant foliage, stems, and sometimes flowers. Holes in geranium leaves are the common telltale sign that sawflies are present.

The thing to note about sawflies is that they’re excellent at escaping. As soon as you go near the plant and start looking for them, they’ll drop from the leaves into the soil.

So this can make manual removal extremely difficult. Sure, you can catch them by placing a bucket under the plant. But it’s a hassle to do so.

Younger plants are especially at risk compared to established geraniums. Sawflies can kill seedlings if extensive damage is done.

They eat the leaves, which means less energy for photosynthesis. The plant loses vigor over time. Sawfly larvae have big appetites as their only goal is to eat until they’re ready to evolve.

To get rid of sawflies from your geraniums, you should start with handpicking. Yes, it’s frustrating to do, but using a large surface area container down below will make it easier.

You can also lay out some tarp around the base of your geranium then shake or poke the larvae off. They’ll fall down and you can clean up. Removing them manually is perfect for small infestations.

Neem oil works well against sawflies. It’s a good start if you don’t want to use synthetic compounds in your garden. Use pure neem oil extract once per week. Use when the sun is down and wash off the excess. It should form a residual barrier on the leaf surfaces.

People or pets may be sensitive to it, so use it as directed. Neem oil is an effective natural horticultural oil when used properly. Note that it will kill beneficial pollinators.

Neem should never be used during sunny times of the day because it overheats the plant. Coat all surfaces such as leaves, stems, etc. with it. Use it in the early morning or dusk.

Getting more birds into your garden will also help. Birds are natural predators of sawfly larvae. Set up bird feeders near your geraniums to encourage birds to show up.

Once they realize there’s a source of food in your garden, they’ll return on their own. So it’s just the initial setup. Birds are beneficial because they can help reduce insect numbers.

You may be considering using Bt, but it’s not that effective against sawflies because they’re not actually caterpillars. Don’t waste your time or money. It is good against budworms, but less effective against sawflies.

Spinosad will work against sawfly larvae. If you choose to use this, do it before your geraniums go into the season. Use as directed. Again, only use commercial-based synthetics if absolutely necessary.

Pyrethrin is another ingredient that’s highly effective against sawflies. If spinosad isn’t available in your area, pyrethrin-based sprays can be another consideration.

Whiteflies

Whiteflies are usually found in warmer zones because they can’t survive the cold outdoors. This generally limits them to indoor environments or greenhouses.

If your geranium is in either of these setups, whiteflies can show up. Greenflies are much more common on geranium plants IMO, but in warmer regions, whiteflies can overpopulate. They show up in mid to late summer for most zones.

They leave behind a sticky residue known as honeydew, which can cause fungal issues. Similar to aphids, they use piercing mouthparts to suck plant juice.

With heavy feeding, plants will become weak and unable to generate energy. The leaves of your geranium will turn pale or yellow or it may be students.

Dropped leaves are a telltale sign of whiteflies paired with sooty mold on the foliage. They tend to hide under the leaves, especially around the veins. Whiteflies are white. They swarm when disturbed, so they’re quite easy to ID. These tiny white bugs on geraniums don’t go unnoticed.

To get rid of them, there are a few things you can do. First, if you’re growing geraniums indoors or in a greenhouse, move them outside in the winter. This will instantly get rid of them.

Of course, you’ll want to harden them off first so they don’t get plant shock.

Prune off infested foliage and dip it into soapy water. This will kill the nymphs/adults/eggs on the leaf. Whiteflies tend to feed on the underside of leaves, so check there.

Using an insecticidal soap can be handy for eliminating them. Use as directed. Spray in the evening so midday heat doesn’t burn the foliage. It also helps prevent killing pollinators.

Spray them off with a powerful hose. This will get them to scatter and get rid of their eggs. It’s more effective than you think. Doing it repeatedly will disturb them to the point where they’ll leave in search of other host plants.

A tablespoon of dish soap in a gallon of water can be used as a DIY insecticidal soap. Spray it in cooler temperatures, such as during sunset. The soapy water can be used to spray on active feeding sites to kill whiteflies.

You can help stop whiteflies from ever infesting your geraniums by doing some basic practices:

Mulch early in the season with aluminum mulch. This will deter them from infesting your plants. Reflective aluminum mulch makes it harder for whiteflies to infest host plants.

Keeping natural predators in your garden is always good. Ladybugs, lacewings, spiders, hummingbirds, damselflies, lizards, and dragonflies are excellent for whitefly predators.

Inspect new plants for pests before implementing them in your garden. Quarantine for at least 2 weeks. This will give you time to see if they’re nested.

Use cayenne pepper. Cayenne spray can be made simply by mixing water, dish soap, and some cayenne pepper. This is effective against most pests because they can’t stand the heat from the pepper.

Spray directly onto caterpillars, budworms, aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, scale, snails, slugs, or mites. Never spray into the flower buds as it can burn your geranium.

You can adjust the pepper level to add more if the bugs aren’t being wiped out. If your plant is noticeably changing color from the pepper, use more water to dilute it.

See this guide for more information on whitefly control.

Deer

Deer have been known to be a common wildlife nuisance for geraniums.

Although deer generally will opt for other flowers instead, they’ll consume the buds if there’s nothing else preferable to eat. Most geraniums will regrow damage caused by deer.

This hardy plant can withstand heavy pruning, whether by pruners or the teeth of a deer.

The strong fragrance and slightly hairy texture aren’t palatable by deer, so it’s unlikely that they’ll stay around and continue to eat your geraniums.

However, you can do some things to keep the deer out:

• Build a fence to physically keep them out of the geranium plant bed
• Switch to hanging geraniums
• Use deer repelling plants to keep them out
• Use commercial deer repellents

Geranium itself is considered to be deer repellent. So you probably won’t have any issues with extensive feeding from deer. The geranium “Rozanne” is excellent for keeping them out of your garden.

Preventing geranium pests

There’s no single way to keep bugs off geraniums.

It’s always a combination of best practices to reduce the chance of pest problems overall. To keep your geraniums free of pests, here are some things you can do:

Plant geraniums in full sun. This will help dry out the soil between watering sessions so that the water doesn’t pool. As you know, water that doesn’t quickly drain will cause fungal issues and bring in pests. Planting in full sun will help evaporate the water.

Water with the right frequency. Geraniums only need a few inches of water per week. Water deeply at the base of the plant. Adjust for rain or drought. Overwatering is just as bad as underwatering.

Prune regularly. You should be cutting the spent flowers off and removing excess foliage once a month. This will help stop bugs from coming to eat the spent blooms.

Pruning damaged foliage may help remove eggs or nymphs. It also helps water evaporation so it doesn’t mold or grow fungus. Besides, cutting back spent flowers (deadheading) will encourage a second bloom!

Check often for pests. Whenever you work with your geraniums, do a check for bugs.

Quarantine new plants, soils, etc. Buying new merchandise from the nursery is fun, but dealing with hitchhiking bugs is not. So don’t forget to quarantine new plants or materials from the garden center. If you see pest activity, return it.

Bring in natural predators

There are plenty of predators that’ll gladly eat the bugs off geraniums.

Depending on your hardiness zone, you can look up what natively lives there and find out how to get more of them into your garden.

Some of the most effective natural predators include the following:

• Predatory mites
• Parasitic wasps
• Parasite flies
• Predatory gall wasps
• Minute pirate bugs
• Flower flies
• Lacewings
• Birds
• Lizards
• Frogs
• Toads
• Ants
• Big eyed bugs
• Ladybugs
• Chickens (ideal for eating bugs)
• Ducks
• Guinea fowl
• Geese
• Ground beetles
• Turtles
• Snakes
• And pretty much whatever eats small bugs

If you put in the effort to bring in more of these natural bug hunters, it can help eliminate a lot of different pests from ever establishing a population in your garden- not just on your geraniums.

Local garden nurseries may have info on what natural predators you can introduce to your garden.

See what lives in your area and set up favorable environments to bring them into your yard. Some of these can even be ordered online (such as these ladybugs on Amazon).

If your geranium is container grown, you can get a mini greenhouse for it. Put it inside, then release the beneficial bugs inside. They’ll feed on the geraniums bugs inside until they’re gone. Then you can release the bugs.

Utilize pest-repelling plants

Some plants are excellent at repelling pests and keeping your geranium safe.

Planting these nearby vulnerable plants can be more effective than you think- especially with plants that emit strong aromas.

Think oregano, basil, garlic, onion, marigold, neem, lemongrass, petunias, lavender, mint, chrysanthemums, catnip, and floss flowers. See what grows well in your USDA hardiness zone and then plant it as a defensive plant.

Don’t overwater

Overwatering your geraniums is never good. It pools the water and this brings in more bugs that seek moisture. Only water when necessary.

Get on a scheduled watering regimen that changes depending on the weather outside. If you notice fungus or bugs, reducing watering should be the first thing you do. It helps limit the number of bugs your geranium can support. So never overdo it.

Don’t overfeed

Don’t over-fertilize. Just like overwatering, overfeeding your geraniums will build up nutrients in the soil, which will bring in bugs.

Use a water solution to plant food. Start with half dosages to see how your plants react. If it’s OK, then use max dosages as directed.

Similar to limiting watering, you should avoid plant food if possible. Only fertilize your geranium if absolutely necessary.

Otherwise, don’t use it. If your soil doesn’t drain well, the nutrients from the fertilizer get stuck and then build. This is what bugs love.

Use well-draining soil

Use well draining soil. This is obvious. The soil you choose to use should be well draining so that water doesn’t pool. It can help prevent root focused pests.

Your soil should drain well and never pool water. If it does, it’s time to replace it. Geraniums are easygoing, gorgeous flower that requires soil that drains well.

This will help prevent fungal issues, pests, and viruses, and help your plant thrive. Never use soil that’s clumpy or hard. Only use rich, fertile soils with moisture retaining properties.

If your soil is depleted, dry, hard, or doesn’t drain immediately, you need to replace it. Thankfully, geraniums can easily be swapped into newly replenished soil.

If grown in containers, just swap the container with new soil. If garden sown, the plant needs to be uprooted first. Dig from the outside in, being careful of the roots. Then uproot it, swap the soil, then replant it.

Use decoy plants

Some plants can be sacrificed so that pests will leave your geraniums alone.

Think of hardy, leafy plants that can be easily grown or purchased cheaply:

• Catnip
• Chives
• Alliums
• Marigolds
• Impatiens
• Celosia
• Ivy
• Verbena
• Canna
• Spider plants
• Ferns

The idea is to plant them near your geraniums or around the perimeter of your garden. This way, bugs that come in will gravitate towards these scarecrow decoy plants instead of your prized ones.

Consult a professional

When you don’t have the time or the energy to deal with geranium pests on your own, consider getting some help from a professional pest control company near you.

Yes, it’ll cost you money should you decide to sign up for their services. But at the same time, time is money. If they can take care of the issue on the first go, it saves you time that could be spent doing other productive things.

Consult with local pest control companies. Read reviews. Get quotes. You know the drill.

See if they offer guarantees or organic/natural pest control. This should be your last resort if you just can’t get rid of the geranium bugs. They can get rid of them using compounds not available to the general public. The experience is what you pay for.

Some people will be reluctant, but if you just can’t shoo those geranium bugs, then it’s worth thinking about.

Further reading

The following references may be helpful if you need more info:

• Geranium Care – Horticulture and Home Pest News
• Geranium pests, diseases and other problems – ThompsonMorgan
• Managing Pests in Gardens: Floriculture: Geranium—UC IPM
• What’s wrong with these geraniums? – Houzz
• What’s this pest on my geranium leaves? I sprayed it with … – Reddit

Did you get rid of the bugs on your precious geraniums?

You now know how to eliminate the most common pests you may come across on geraniums. Armed with this knowledge, go forth and see what you can do!

Smaller nations should be pretty manageable using these basic DIY home remedies. Larger infestations may require you to break out the commercial sprays or even hire someone to get rid of them.

Do you have questions regarding a specific bug problem on your geranium plants? Post your comment using the section below and I’ll try to get back to you ASAP.

What do you think of this guide? How can I improve it? Did you get any useful info? Please let me know your thoughts as well.

The post How to Get Rid of Pests on Geraniums Naturally (Fast and Easy) appeared first on BugWiz.

They’re big. They’re scary. And they’re destructive.

These bugs are considered to be a leafhopper.

But they’re 5 times the average size of a random one you’d see in your yard (spanning up to 0.5 inches!).

The scariest part about them?

They’re carriers of pathogens (plant-wise). These pathogens can kill entire fields of crops.

But if you’re just a regular ol’ gardener, you don’t want these guys regardless.

They can eat your blooms, destroy your foliage, and mess up your plants in more than one way.

In this guide, you’ll read about:

• Why glassy winged sharpshooters are in your garden
• Where they’re coming from
• What they’re eating
• How to get rid of glassy winged sharpshooters
• How to keep them out of your garden

Bookmark this page so you can easily find it again on your journey to control, repel, and manage these pests.

While it’s not possible to write a guide for every single sharpshooter infestation, this one serves as GENERAL tips/suggestions for insect control. Your individual needs WILL vary.

If you have any questions even after getting through this guide, please leave a comment at the end of the page. I’ll try to get back to you ASAP (as usual!).

Sound good? It’s time to send those glassy sharpshooter flying (out of your garden). 

What’s a glassy-winged sharpshooter?

While it may have a cool name, the glassy-winged sharpshooter is known as Homalodisca vitripennis.

It was formerly called H. coagulata before the nomenclature changed.

This bug looks like a small grasshopper or leafhopper to the untrained eye. It was first introduced into California in the 1980s from plant foliage.

Later on, the sharpshooters migrated through the southeast US. Now it can be found in the southeastern US (Florida, Texas, Mississippi, Georgia, Alabama, Tennessee, Louisiana, North Carolina, South Carolina, California, Arizona, Nevada, and New Mexico) where it natively feeds on plant material.

The glassy-winged sharpshooter is officially a leafhopper. They’re much bigger than “regular” ones.

They’re big, quick, and pretty gnarly looking. But there are some things you can do to get rid of them naturally. These guys may look scary, but they’re generally not interested in humans.

They’d rather flee with their powerful wings and legs rather than cause trouble. That doesn’t mean you can just let them feast on your plants though.

They’re destructive and vectors of plant pathogens that can be harmful to your garden.

Other names

Other common names refer to the glassy-winged sharpshooter.

Here are some other aliases:

• GWSS
• GWS
• H. vitripennis
• H. coagulata
• Grasshopper (mistakenly)
• Leafhopper
• Brown leafhopper
• Big leafhopper

Depending on where you’re at, the locals will have various names for these pests.

In the southeastern regions, you’ll find them natively hanging out in huge numbers

In California, you’ll find them throughout the San Joaquin valley where they inhabit their preferred host plants.

What does a sharpshooter insect look like? – Insect identification

pest 

The GWS is a relatively large pest compared to other leafhoppers, which are usually just about 1/10 of an inch in length (3mm). When fully grown, the adults can be up to 0.5” in length. That’s 5 times the average size of a leafhopper you’ll find in your garden!

The hard exoskeleton is usually black or brown paired with wings. They can also be yellow, green, gray, or any hybridized colors. Even albino white.

They have fully developed wings that are transparent (clear) with venation that disappears over time. Since the wings are seen through, they look brown or black because you see their body color beneath the wings.

There is a segregated head that’s the same color as the body. One easy way to identify the glassy-winged sharpshooter is to look for white or yellow spots on the head of the bug.

This is one way to distinguish the GWS from other relatives. Numerous spots on the head make it easy to tell.

As for the nymphs, they’re very similar to the adult, albeit smaller, don’t have wings yet, and are olive in color. They also have huge, bulging black eyes that fade when they grow up.

Adults don’t have this phenotype. The glassy-winged sharpshooter is easy to identify once you know what to look for.

Lifecycle

The female adult deposits a white, chalky residue that she holds in her upper wings. It creates white spots, signaling that she’s about to lay eggs.

Upon laying the egg batch, the chalky material is used to protect the batch of eggs. She’ll cover the entire egg batch with this residue.

So if you ever see white spots on the wings, it’s a female sharpshooter bug for sure.

Each female will lay up to a dozen eggs in a single batch, neatly placed. The eggs are laid in rows, side by side. They’re hidden beneath leaves, under the epidermis of young foliage.

The eggs first look like small green blisters on the leaf epidermis. Then they turn brown when they hatch.

You can use this to tell if glassy-winged sharpshooters have been in your plants because the leaf turns permanently brown on the underside.

You can also use this knowledge to prune off leaves you know have eggs stuck on the bottom of them.

Eggs hatch in 10-14 days on average, depending on the temperature.

Nymphs will come out and feed on leaf petioles. They prefer younger succulent stems because they’re easy to digest. Adults will show up in June or July.

They mate in the summer, then repeat the process from mid-June to October. Then they deposit their second batch.

The GWS only produces 1-2 progeny per year. When the cold comes, the adults will feed on citrus or other non-deciduous foliage until the spring comes.

Then they’ll eat on leafless twigs or other deciduous plant sap in the daytime, then back to non-deciduous plants during the night.

Overwintering adults will lay eggs from February to April. The first generation of eggs is on non-deciduous plants only.

Where is the glassy-winged sharpshooter native to?

They’re found natively in the wild in a variety of habitats, including:

• Native woodlands
• Riparian plants
• Urban zones
• Industrial zones
• Agricultural zones
• Gardens
• Commercial farms

As for actual locations, the GWS is found across the US. Some areas of southern California (Kern County, San Luis Obispo, Fresno, Solano, Butte, Sacramento, Santa Clara, Contra, Tulare, and the San Joaquin Valley).

Where do they hide? Where are they found?

Glassy sharpshooters will hide in a variety of habits.

Even though they have a large size (up to half an inch for adults), they can camouflage themselves well in dense foliage. These buggers are found in their host plants, where they hide, mate, and feed.

When disturbed, they’ll go into hiding by rapidly jumping or flying. The GWS has over 100 plant hosts in over 35 plant families. You may have come across them when you prune, harvest, or walk by your plants.

The nymphs may be found on plants with greenish-gray coloring with bulging red or blackeyes. The eggs can be found on the bottom of the leaves. The eggs have a waxy coating. Don’t try to catch one.

What do they eat?

The GWS feeds on the plant fluids in the xylem, which are the main water “tubes” of the plant. They have piercing mouthparts that can suck the sap out of the xylem.

While feeding rarely will cause permanent damage to the leaves, it can be deadly to younger plants or if there are lots of sharpshooter pests.

The insects will excrete liquid, which can make your plant’s leaves look whitish. This is not damaging to the plant but looks ugly.

The white stain can be a nuisance when plants are heavy with infestation. Their liquid excrement damages nearby surface too, such as vehicles, buildings, or patio furniture. If you’ve seen white spots all over your plants, it’s likely the work of glassy-winged sharpshooter bugs.

During the summertime, GWS can cause plant wilt, especially if there are a lot of them feeding on the same host plant.

Glassy-winged sharpshooter host plant list

The GWS has a bunch of host plants that it’ll eat. Numerous woody plants, as well as perennial herbaceous or annuals, are all common infestation sites.

Some of the most common lists of host plants include:

• Acacia
• Avocado
• Eucalyptus
• Citrus
• Crepe myrtle
• Heavenly bamboo
• Grape
• Photinia
• Pittosporum
• Hibiscus
• Periwinkle
• Xylosma
• Some roses
• Peppers
• Bougainvillea
• Sunflower
• Blueberries
• Asparagus

The preference for a host plant will change depending on the time of year, species, and location. The first or second progeny also has varying diet preferences.

The nutrition value of host plants, competition, and availability influence what they eat. Some plants are used for eating. Others are used for depositing eggs.

Is the glassy-winged sharpshooter an invasive species? 

Yes, it’s considered to be invasive in many parts of the US. This guy will tear up plant material like nothing. They’re a threat for commercial growers.

States like California, Hawaii, and other southeastern states have labeled it invasive due to the pathogen it carries which can lead to Pierce’s disease in plants.

Are glassy-winged sharpshooters harmful?

It depends on what you’re growing.

If you’re growing crops, they can be a serious threat.

Some host plants, such as grapes or citrus, can infect them with Xylella fastidiosa, which can kill the fruit. It also can cause leaf scorch.

For the average gardener, the GWSS can do some damage, but rarely enough to be extensive.

In the urban garden, there are rarely enough glassy sharpshooters to do any damage. Plus, Xylella is rarely seen in these environments.

Do they bite? Are they poisonous?

The GWSS is not poisonous and doesn’t bite humans, pets, or other animals. It feeds exclusively on plant sap.

But even then, you should avoid directly touching the bug because it can transmit dangerous plant vectors that can infest your garden.

Sharpshooter bugs aren’t good for anything. They have no positive impact on gardens other than being a nuisance.

Glassy-winged sharpshooter damage

These bugs do extensive damage to their host plants, especially younger plants that aren’t well established yet. The GWS will do more damage to some plants than others.

For example, avocado isn’t considered to be vulnerable. But some crops, such as those on commercial farms, can be a serious liability to the GWSS.

Why?

Because they’re carriers of Xylella fastidiosa. This bacteria is highly lethal to some plants and can cause leaf scorch. The bacteria are more dangerous than the damage from their feeding itself.

It can wipe out entire harvests for crop growers.

When the infestation reaches more than 10 leafhoppers per leaf, they can defoliate plants. This means no production, which means destroyed crop harvests for the season.

Why is the glassy-winged sharpshooter a threat?

They’re more of a threat to farmers who have large plots of land for commercial growing. They can destroy large areas of land quickly.

Especially when their numbers peak in the summertime. This makes them a serious threat to those with large plots of land. Destroyed crops are lost profits.

In addition to that, the GWSS also is a vector for Xylella, which is often fatal to plants.

Both of these reasons make the GWSS an incredibly dangerous species. In crops like grapes or another citrus, they’re more than a nuisance. They can defoliate plants entirely.

How to get rid of sharpshooter bugs naturally

Getting rid of the glassy-winged sharpshooter is no easy task, but with some patience, you can eliminate them using the following remedies.

While you won’t get rid of them completely, you can still bring their population numbers down to a level where damage to your plants is minimal so you can still enjoy your garden.

If you have questions, post them in the comments form at the end of this page.

Use sticky adhesives

Sticky traps can be used to catch them passively.

They serve dual purposes in that they help eliminate some of the population, but more importantly, they let you know how your pest control plan is working.

Over time, expect to see fewer GWS getting caught. If you see more, it could mean that you need to change your plan or it could be peak bug activity.

These sticky traps can be purchased at your local home improvement store.

Put them out in the summer until the fall. Use them to see how frequent the GWS are coming to your garden.

Plant decoy plants

The glassy sharpshooter has preferences for plants.

You can plant cheaper, foliage-dense plants on the perimeter of your garden to help bait the pests to infest those instead of your prized vegetation.

These should be plants with dense foliage that’ll draw the bugs towards them.

Get cheap plants like sunflowers, nasturtiums, zinnias, or okra. These can be checked for GSW nymphs regularly so you know if they’re peaking in activity.

While decoy plants may not eliminate the pests, they help reduce the damage to your main plants.

However, it can backfire. If they come in for the decoy plants, there’s plenty of foliage for them to eat, so you could be helping their population thrive.

The infected leaves should be pruned, then dipped in soapy water to kill the eggs/nymphs.

Monitor for damage

It’s important to keep tabs on the GWS in your garden. Every time you go out to prune, harvest, or do other yard work, be sure to check on the damage they’re doing.

This will let you know some key info:

• Where the GWS are feeding
• Host plants that they’re eating
• Whether or not they’re moving in
• Where they’re hiding
• If the insect control plan you’re doing is working

Even though the glassy sharpshooter is large, it’s hard to see in the wild. It blends in well with its surroundings using its brown, darkened colors.

The bug is not obvious unless disturbed. It commonly hides in twigs, leaves, or branches where it detects movement.

When looking for glassy-winged sharpshooters, look for the tips of new shoots. They’re hiding within 1 foot from the new leaf shoots. They feed on this area.

You may also find small droplets of mist or powdery coating on the canopy of your plants. Constant droplets signify that sharpshooter pests are present.

Inspect/quarantine new plants

Newly purchased plants should be quarantined.

If buying plants from a nursery, they should have their inspection programs, especially if it’s an infested area.

Even then, you should do your own quarantine/inspection before adding them to your garden.

Use natural predators

While the glassy winged sharpshooter has a large size, there are still plenty of other pests that’ll gladly eat them.

Depending on where you live, you may be able to lure some of the insects into your garden to help control the GWS population passively.

Some natural predators that eat glassy winged sharpshooters include:

• Assassin bugs
• Praying mantis
• Lacewings
• Parasitic wasps (Cosmocomoidea)
• Spiders
• Birds

Do some reading on what lives in your area. Then find out what kind of environments they prefer to get more of them into your garden.

For example, you can bring in more birds by setting up birdhouses, birdbaths, or even birdfeeders. Birds will then come to your yard daily for feeding.

If they’re predatory, they’ll hunt down the GWS in the garden.

Neem oil

Neem oil isn’t useful for preventing or killing GWSS. Neem oil is naturally derived from neem leaves, which is often used as a DIY spray to keep sap-sucking pests off plants.

The oil is sprayed onto vulnerable foliage and then dried. It forms a layer of residue on the leaf that keeps pests from feeding on it.

While it may work for other bugs like persea mites or leaf footed bugs, it hasn’t been shown to do anything in repelling GWSS. Therefore, you should stick to proven techniques for glassy sharpshooters outlined prior.

Insecticides for glassy sharpshooters

Under a well-established plan of biological control, insecticides aren’t usually necessary.

Urban landscapes rarely have large numbers of glassy sharpshooters, so you can eliminate them with this kind of remedy.

There is also a low prevalence of the disease vectors in these neighborhoods.

Xylella is rare in the urban garden. But some zones have high sharpshooter populations because of plant selection. They love citrus plants especially.

So this can lead to higher numbers, which can become a nuisance pest. In this case, using an insecticide may be necessary.

For entire plant protection

If you choose to use insecticides to get rid of the glassy sharpshooters, note that it’s important to read the ingredients. Check the label.

Look for something called imidacloprid. It’s proven to be effective against glassy-winged sharpshooters.

There are a few products that are well known for their effectiveness to eradicate these bugs.

Here’s one of the touted ones (links to Amazon):

• Bayer BioAdvanced 12 Month Tree and Shrub and Bayer Advanced Fruit Citrus and Vegetable Insect Control

Be sure to read the label and use it as directed. Note that this may not work for your specific plants or pest situation. It’s your responsibly to ensure it works for you.

Applications will vary in dosage depending on the size of the shrub, dilution levels, and how it’s applied. Most insecurities aren’t sprays, but rather liquid. They’re poured around the base of the infested plant where it seeps into the soil.

The plant then soaks it up and moves it up the stem. Your plants will be protected within a few weeks because of the ingredient.

It also helps keep other pests off like scales, whiteflies, or even aphids in addition to the glassy winged sharpshooter.

For instant kill

If you can spot high concentrations of the pest, it may be possible to use insecticidal soaps to kill the nymphs.

This is usually in parts of the foliage where you see a lot of the white excrement being produced, which can damage nearby cars, surfaces, or other paint finishes.

Here’s a video of the “rain” effect of their excrement coming down:

Insecticidal soaps can help remedy this problem. Insecticidal soaps or oils can penetrate the nymphs and kill them upon contact.

They don’t work on adults with thicker exoskeletons, but the soft nymphs will be wiped out by it. Note that using insecticidal soaps or oils can be harmful to beneficial insects, such as pollinators or wasps. Use as directed.

Some popular products that work well against sharpshooters include (links to Amazon):

• Bio Advanced Insect, Disease and Mite Control
• Ortho Insect, Mite and Disease 3-in-1
• Sevin Insect Killer

Read the label. Use as directed. Note that these insecticides may NOT work for your plants or pest situation. It’s your duty to see if they’re right for your specific scenario.

When used properly, it can help control the glassy winged sharpshooters from damaging your plant further. By destroying the GWSS nymphs, they can’t evolve into adults. This stops their lifecycle on the spot.

Contact your local office

It’s important to report the presence of glassy winged sharpshooters to your local coop or extension office.

They’ll document the incident and also have suggestions for you.

Depending on your location, the GWSS can be considered a serious threat to the local landscape. The Dept. of Food and Agricultural (here’s the one for California) or your local agriculture office are good places to call.

Further reading

You may find these resources handy:

• Homalodisca vitripennis – IFAS
• Homalodisca vitripennis (glassy winged sharpshooter) – CABI
• Glassy-Winged Sharpshooter – IIG

Did you get rid of the sharpshooters in your garden?

Glassy winged sharpshooters do pose a threat to your yard, but most of the time they can be managed without too much issue.

If you’re in an urban or suburban zone, the damage from GWS shouldn’t be too extensive. They’re more of a threat to industrial farms or commercial properties.

With some basic measures (quarantine new plants, regular pruning, inspection), you can spot the sharpshooters before they can eat your host plants.

Follow up by deciding on an appropriate plan of action (insecticides or repellents) to help get rid of the GWSS. Then, use monitoring (sticky traps) to see how your plan is working.

Supplement with additional remedies (decoy planting, pruning, using predators of the GWS, removal of eggs) to help maximize the treatment plan.

Being patient, but persistent, is key to eliminating the pest.

Do you have any questions about glassy-winged sharpshooters? Post them in the form below.

If you found this guide helpful, please let me know as well. Consider telling your neighbors- it’s the most you can do!

The post How to Get Rid of Glassy Winged Sharpshooters (Naturally) appeared first on BugWiz.

They’re after your leaves, blossoms, crops, and everything else. When peak summer hits, you can expect an unmanaged yard to be swarming with them.

These little guys are relatively large compared to other beetle species (spanning up to 1″ at max height).

They’re also extremely destructive in large numbers, which allows them to destroy entire plants seemingly overnight.

To add to their reputation, they can even emit a toxin from their body when in danger.

If you crush one, it’ll release it all at once which can result in adverse reactions. It can even be lethal in high enough doses.

This is why it’s imperative you educate yourself on the behavior and management of blister beetles, but always consult a licensed professional before you try anything on your own.

In this guide, you’ll learn about:

• How to identify blister beetles and what they look like
• Why blister beetles are in your garden, home, or farmland
• Ways to naturally get rid of them without poisons
• How to keep blister beetles out of your property
• Techniques for controlling beetles in your home, garden, or plants (tomato)
• And more

If you have questions, please post them at the end of this page using the form. I’ll try to get back to you when I can.

This guide is written for quick reference, rather than being read in one sitting. So you may notice repeating themes.

Bookmark this page so you can refer back to it easier later on.

Let’s get rid of the blister beetles naturally and send them far far away from your plants.

Poison warning

Blister beetles should never be handled directly without proper protective gear.

Wear long sleeved clothing, closed toed shoes, protective gloves (NOT cloth), and use an object to “brush” or handle them indirectly.

If the shell is crushed, the beetle will release a toxin that will cause adverse reactions upon ingestion or contact.

NEVER attempt to handle one directly. Seek professional advice from a licensed pest control expert before attempting any insect control plan.

What’s a blister beetle?

Blister beetles, Meloidae, are small black beetles about 2.5cm in length at adult size.

There are over 250 types of blister beetles in the US and 2500 worldwide.

You’ve probably seen them scurrying about in your garden before. These guys are everywhere!

These beetles can be extremely colorful with striped lines running down the body.

They can be colored or solid. The adults have skinny legs that allow them to grasp onto plants to feed on organic matter or the larvae of other insects.

They eat both because they’re gregarious pests.

Blister beetles are a huge genus of over 2500 different types globally.

They have diversification because of their adaptations to their environments which results in thousands of unique markings, colors, shapes, sizes, and behaviors.

That can make them difficult to identify with the common person. But there is ONE thing that all of the blister beetles share- cantharidin.

That’s the poison they excrete when the beetle is killed. This tiny beetle can kill a horse if the toxin is consumed. The toxin remains dangerous even after the beetle is killed.

This is why they can be extremely dangerous to livestock for those that keep them in the garden or on the farmland.

Blister beetles found in hay or animal feed can be lethal to the animals that consume it:

• Cows (cattle)
• Sheep
• Goats
• Horses
• Rabbits
• Chinchillas
• Guinea pigs
• Chicken
• Ducks
• Pigs
• Degus
• Turtles
• Prairie Dogs
• Deer
• Elk

Sometimes pets like cats or dogs may eat the blister beetle residue after killing it. This is just as dangerous vs. crushed beetle juice in hay stacks.

If you have loose pets (or kids) running around in the garden where beetles are present, you need to get them under control.

Beetles may also make their way into your bedroom, kitchen, bathrooms, etc.

So be on your toes. Once you spot them inside, you know that the infestation has taken place outside. Seal your home and start eliminating them outside in the garden.

Other names

Blister beetles, being so diverse, have many aliases. Here are some of the most common names you’ll find on the web:

• Striped blister beetle
• False blister
• Two striped
• Oil beetle

Some are incorrect, but that’s expected when there are so many beetle types!

How do you identify blister beetles?

Blister beetles contain over 2500 species, so you can guess that they have a wide variety of patterns and colors.

Depending on where you live, your local beetle can have unique markings.

In general, blister beetles have a long body that’s sticklike. They can grow up to 1” in length. Their head is segmented with a neck that’s much thinner and tapers off quickly.

Their heads are big and bulky with long antennae that range up to ⅓ of their total body length. The antenna may be colored brightly from the rest of the head with the same color as the stripes on their back.

Their legs are visible with some hair on them. The legs are hairy, but the back wing covers are shiny.

Blister beetles have soft wings that allow them to fly in large swarms. The markings are bright and contrast from the dark, soft shell.

Blister beetles have unique markings that can vary a lot from one region to another. The dominant color is gray or black which is solid, but the markings are much lighter in color.

Some beetles may be blue or green with a luster. The markings are generally brown, gray, or yellow.

But again, this varies. They can even be cream-colored or some other crazy combo. The coloring is bright and variegated.

Patterns can be striped or flat. Striped beetles are usually gray or brown with yellow stripes running on the wing covers.

The most common blister beetles are the following:

• Solid gray (ash gray beetle)
• Black blister beetle is solid black
• Margined blister beetle is solid black with gray or vanilla bands on the edges of each wing cover

The trim on the margin of the wing covers is colored. Wings are flexible and soft.

During the summertime, you’ll see them everywhere as this is when they’re most active.

Overall, they’re not that special from other beetles, which can make it hard to identify them.

Proper identification is important so you know if the beetle you’re dealing with is toxic or not.

Some other beetles like the asparagus beetle are very similar in appearance, so it’s important to note the distinctions between them. Read the linked guide to spot the differences so you can properly identify blister beetles.

Lifecycle

Blister beetles deposit their eggs in batches on the soil or under stones. Some will lay on the host plants directly. Larvae undergo four distinct instars, successively getting bigger each time.

When born from egg, the larvae will feed heavily on plant materials or eggs of other insects. Larvae have been found eating grasshopper eggs or solitary bees commonly found in pastures or grasslands where they’re plentiful.

If you’re in a rural area, you may living by pastures or grasslands. So even if you have no host crops that they eat, they may still find their way into your property.

Eggs are tiny, mobile larvae which will find bees or grasshoppers to consume. The larvae look like worms or grubs in appearance before they pupate.

Note that people mistake the blister beetle grub form vs. adult forms even through they’re the same bug.

Blister beetles spend the winter in the larvae form until the spring season where they pupate.

The adult will emerge from the cocoon about 14 days later. The adults will feed, mate, and then deposit egg clusters into the soil.

Females will mate and oviposit multiple times, but only have one progeny per year for most species. They swarm together in large numbers.

What are blister bugs attracted to?

Blister beetles like plant material, which usually includes the blossoms of flowers. Broadleaf plants are common targets with the adults feeding on flowers and some leaves.

Upon heavy feeding, they can cause your plants to defoliate which means failed blossoms. They feed on the flowers first, then move onto other parts of the plant.

Their food is insect eggs or plant materials, especially alfalfa, hay, tomato, potatoes, or other similar species.

They prefer young, tender greens because they’re easy to digest and feed on.

Blister beetles also will feed on the eggs of other insects like grasshoppers because they are easy to digest. If you have plants or grasshoppers in your garden, you can expect blister beetles to be present.

They’re really not picky about what they eat. And this is why you have blister beetles.

The majority of beetles are diurnal or show no diel cycle, which means they have little preference for the time of day they’re out and feeding.

Some are nocturnal. All are gregarious and colored for camouflage from predators.

How common are blister beetles?

With over 2500 species worldwide, blister beetles are extremely common here in the US. They’re also found in South America up to Canada!

Since they’re widely adaptable to various environments, these beetles can be found globally.

Their family of bugs spans across the world, but only a small fraction is found in the US. They’re phytophagous. They feed on plants in the Amaranthaceae, Asteraceae, and Solanaceae groups.

The crop damage from these gregarious beetles is extensive. They feed on cultivated plants. They cause defloration from their behavior.

Their local attacks can be extensive in smaller gardens.

Are blister beetles poisonous to dogs or horses?

Blister beetles are dangerous to live animals. If ingested, they can be lethal. The toxin they produce is called cantharidin.

It’s their last line of defense against predators because this toxin isn’t released until the beetle is dead. It comes oozing out of the body after being eaten during a series of controlled dispersions called reflex bleeding.

It doesn’t do anything to stop the natural enemies of blister beetles from eating it, but it does harm them after they’ve been eaten.

If the beetle is caught in the mouth, such as that of a bird, it releases the toxin which forces the attacker to let go, thus letting the beetle escape.

Cantharidin is produced between the many joints of the beetle. In this manner, the toxin is released slowly as it ends.

But if the beetle is crushed, the toxin is released all at once. It’s stable at room temperature for a very long time.

So even if you were to come into contact with it months later, the cantharidin is still effective.

In the case of being crushed in a hay bale or being stepped on by horses, dogs, or cats, can be dangerous.

If the toxin is ingested from the blister beetle being crushed, it can kill the animal.

If consumed in large amounts proportional to the animal size, it can be lethal.

Some symptoms are blistering of the mouth, throat, or digestive issues.

Small dosages can be extremely irritating to horses, cows, pigs, or other animals. Large dosages from multiple beetles can be lethal.

Where do blister beetles hide?

Blister beetle adults feed on flourishing leaves of plants.

They’re commonly found hiding in flowers that are bright and colorful where they consume the foliage, flowers, blossoms, or other tender parts.

These beetles are commonly found in the summertime during peak season. They’re not picky about what they eat. Vegetables, fruits, and even ornamental plants are all fair game for their diet.

Blister beetles are found in croplands, wetlands, and tall grassy areas. Plains, regions with dense foliage, or in the garden! They love places with lots of covers so they can hide and feed safely.

If your garden has lots of plants or planting media, this gives them ample opportunity to feed in safety.

Overcrowded plants are excellent locations for them to hide. Unkempt, messy, or weedy gardens provide plenty of coverage for these pests.

They can even thrive in the desert where they feed on the larvae of insects or flowering cacti.

Barns, farms, and crop fields are also prime targets for them to invade. Because of their small size, they can remain hidden from view for extended periods.

The major concern is their ability to hide in densely packed foliage, such as hay or other feed crops.

Growers may suffer damage to their reputation from infested bales, while buyers may suffer damage to their stock from ingesting the beetle toxins.

Beetles will eat in clusters, so if one or two are discovered, the entire bale should be considered infested.

Where do blister beetles come from?

Blister beetles natively are found in the east, south, midwest, and along the Pacific. They even span up to Quebec in Canada.

They’re found in the grasslands where they can hide their eggs in the dense foliage and have plenty of food to eat.

If you’re in one of these zones, blister beetles are likely within walking distance of your household. They’re everywhere.

What states are blister beetles found in?

Blister beetles are found in the southern and eastern regions of the US. They’re basically present in 2/3 of the country!

The following states have a native blister beetle population:

• Oklahoma
• Texas
• North Carolina
• Pennsylvania
• Minnesota
• Arizona
• Florida
• Washington DC
• Georgia
• Massachusetts
• North Dakota
• Maine
• Vermont
• New Hampshire
• South Carolina
• North Carolina
• South Dakota
• Mississippi
• Kentucky
• Tennessee
• Kansas

Outside of the US, they span up to Canada and down to the South Americas.

What do they eat?

Blister beetles eat anything and everything. They’re a major threat to farmers who have crop fields.

They also damage the garden, commercial, leaf crops, alfalfa, hay crops, blossoms, and landscape plants. They’ll eat anything. Nearly any leaf in your garden is fair game.

Solanaceae vegetables, leafy greens, and everything in between. They’re most active in mid or late summer when they show up in large swarms.

Because of this, they can wipe out your foliage in a short period.

The majority of blister beetles only eat floral parts, but some will eat the foliage as well. Some will eat insects.

Since they’re so diverse, they’ve grown a large appetite for most plants and insects.

They can eat eggs, larvae, or even entire bugs.

Plant-wise, they can be found munching on legumes, beet, potato, grasses, alfalfa, hay, fruits, greens, vegetables, or even beans.

People in online gardening communities have reported blister beetle infestations in their peppers, eggplants, turnips, beans, peas, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, and other dark leafy greens.

Blister beetles eat leaves, flowers, or stems. Because they travel in large numbers, they can demolish plants quickly just like striped cucumber beetles and Colorado potato beetles.

Younger seedlings are especially vulnerable to their destruction. They like foliage that’s tender and easier to digest.

For the common person with a garden, blister beetles are a nuisance.

For farmers with croplands, they can do millions of dollars worth of damage.

Blister beetles are a real threat to crop fields that contain alfalfa, beet, tomato, potato, straw, or hay.

Because it provides them with plenty of food and they swarm in huge volumes, they can absolutely decimate fields.

This is why so many publications are written about blister beetle damage, especially in states like Florida. They’re not playing around, friend!

Do blister beetles fly?

Blister beetles can definitely fly. They have large, flexible wings that are actually functional.

Unlike some other insects where the wings are there but they don’t do anything, blister beetles are capable of flight in large swarms that buzz around large crop fields in the heat of summer.

If you’ve ever messed around in your garden and a bunch of beetles just flew out, it can definitely be blister beetles.

Are blister beetles beneficial?

Even as scary as they sound, there are some redeeming qualities to blister beetles.

They actually have some benefits that should be recognized:

• Blister beetles eat grasshopper larvae which can help reduce grasshopper populations
• Blisters eat wild bee larvae and destroy the hive (though bees are important pollinators)
• Blister beetles can help consume plant material
• Grasshopper control

For most people, these reasons aren’t good enough to keep the blister beetles around. If you own horses or other animals, blister beetles can pose a serious threat to them.

Or if you’re scared of accidentally coming into contact with the toxins, it can make your life that much more complicated.

Do a lot of gardening? Blister beetles should be managed, controlled, and eliminated from your garden.

The grasshopper is a major pest in the farming industry. It’s also a nuisance in the home garden.

Grasshoppers will consume plants with great force. Blister beetle larvae will seek out batches of grasshopper eggs to eat with their legs.

But this is only when they’re nymphs. Once blister beetles grow up to adult size, they start doing the real damage to your plants.

So in a sense, yes, they can be used to control grasshopper populations. But after they grow up, they’re a nuisance.

Are blister beetles dangerous?

Blister beetles are aptly named “blister” because of the toxin they release when crushed.

If you’ve ever smashed one on your skin, you’ll notice that the skin gets irritated from the beetle’s poison which causes a painful blister.

This is why you should never attempt to handle, kill, or otherwise make contact with a blister beetle without protection.

Cantharidin, their toxin, is actually used to help reduce warts. But if swallowed, it can be dangerous.

Even just 5 grams or less can be lethal depending on the type of beetle. If ingested by humans, severe damage to the urinary tract and gastrointestinal damage is to be expected.

While blister beetles don’t bite humans, the toxic residue they emit can be extremely irritating.

If a beetle lands on your skin, don’t crush it. Blow it off instead. If you crush it, you force it to release its goo which will get your skin some painful blisters.

If you’re situated in an area where blister beetles are abundant, avoid smacking something on your skin when you don’t know what it is.

Remember that blister beetles will be active during the day for most species.

They also exhibit phototaxis, which is an attraction to light.

So at night, they hover around porch or patio lights which can bring them on your skin. Avoid killing it on your skin.

Don’t ingest the beetle. It can be lethal if ingested orally or even through the skin. The chemical cantharidin will blister your skin and look terrible, but usually will go away on its own.

Consult a medical professional for advice. If it gets into your mouth, eye, nose, cuts, or otherwise inside you, get medical assistance immediately.

Wash all surfaces the bug has touched. Avoid touching your face or eyes upon contact. Don’t touch the parts of your skin it touched without washing it thoroughly first.

Wear long pants, long sleeves, and thick clothing. Blistering will occur on the skin where the beetle touches.

Thin skin is even more vulnerable. These beetles are big and scary, but you should just brush it off with something else.

Clothes, napkins, or something so you don’t need to touch them. Just don’t crush it. Remember it doesn’t bite, so don’t be in a hurry to remove it. Light brushing or washing it off is good enough.

Wash any clothes or surfaces it comes into contact with. If you brush it off too hard, it may release its toxin, so be gentle!

Some beetles are more poisonous than others.

Typically, blister beetles found in hay are the most serious threat to livestock that may consume it.

Horses, cows, pigs, chickens, or other animals that can ingest crushed beetles can end up eating the toxin.

When blister beetles are crushed, they release all of their poison at once.

What kinds of beetles are found in hay?

Hay bales tend to be a favorite place for beetles to congregate.

Within hay, these are the most commonly found species:

• Black blister beetle
• Three-striped blister beetle
• Spotted blister beetle

You should always purchase hay from a reputable seller who can offer a certificate of inspection for blister beetles.

Hay growers who check their bales for beetles regularly will charge a premium, but you have a lower risk of getting your livestock sick from eating the beetle juice.

Buy first cuttings if possible. This is less likely to be infected compared to second or third hay cuttings.

Avoid using hay crimpers because they’ll kill the beetles which resell the chemicals.

Let the hay sit for a few days on your farmland to release the bugs. Cut the hay and let it sit. This will encourage the beetles to leave the bale. Do a visual inspection to check for beetles.

If you see even one or two, it’s a good chance that the entire bale is infested.

How to get rid of blister beetles naturally

Blister beetles are difficult to completely get rid of because they swarm in such numbers.

You can do some basic, DIY remedies that can help bring their numbers down so you limit the damage done to your garden.

The goal of this isn’t to fully eradicate the beetles. Whoever promises you that is lying. It’s more of “damage control” so you can still enjoy your flowers or reduce damage to your crop yield.

Check these techniques out and gauge what works for your situation.

Manual removal of blister beetles

You can manually remove the beetles to help control the population, but you’ll need some protective gloves before you do so.

Make sure the gloves are thick and in good condition.

Prepare a bucket of soapy water by diluting soap into a mixture of 1:10 water. Stir it gently until it suds up.

Go out into your garden and it’s time to go beetle hunting!

This is the easiest way to get rid of a blister beetle infestation that’s completely natural and organic!

The ideal time to look for blister beetles is during the morning to afternoon.

They’re active during the daytime (diurnal) so you’ll find them munching on larvae or eggs or plant matter during the day.

Place the bucket under the plant and then gently knock them off into the bucket.

Do NOT crush them or touch them directly. Just grab the plant and then shake it so they fall into the soapy water.

When blister beetles are disturbed, they’ll stop moving in place.

For the beetles that miss the bucket and fall onto the soil, gently pick them up and put them into the bucket of soapy water.

They’ll be killed within a few minutes. Beetles that aren’t killed will climb back onto the plant and start eating again.

So don’t ignore the ones you miss! Dispose of the soapy water carefully because it’s a biohazard.

It contains large quantities of the cantharidin toxin so it needs to be properly disposed of. You can brush them off with a paintbrush into a small container.

Shaking it will often scatter the pests all over your garden where they’ll lie there and play possum. Gather them carefully during this opportunity.

Get rid of grasshoppers, eggs, and larvae in y0ur garden

There are some eggs that blister beetles will seek out more than others. Grasshoppers are one of their favorites.

If you’re located somewhere where grasshoppers are a native species, consider eliminating the grasshoppers from your garden first.

This will then provide less food available for the blister beetles, which means your yard becomes less attractive to blister beetle females looking for somewhere to deposit their eggs.

If you let the grasshoppers go crazy and deposit their eggs all over your tall weeds, then you’re just inviting the blister beetles in.

The eggs provide the beetle larvae with plenty of food to consume when they’re growing.

Some insecticides that contain the compound spinosad are efficient because it kills both grasshoppers and blister beetles simultaneously.

Note that spinosad doesn’t work immediately. It takes about 2-3 days for it to work in full force.

When used properly, spinosad isn’t known to be dangerous to wildlife or beneficial insects, birds, fish, or other animals. But it DOES kill bees, so keep that in mind.

Grasshoppers eggs are one of the prime staples in the blister beetle food chain.

If your garden is prone to grasshoppers, you’re basically providing them a buffet of eggs to eat to feed the larvae. Keep grasshoppers under control using DIY remedies.

The presence of grasshoppers in your garden shouldn’t be ignored as they’re destructive to crops themselves.

So it’s not just the beetles you’ll be dealing with- the grasshoppers will destroy your plants just like the blister beetles!

There’s no real benefit to keeping the hoppers in your garden, so get rid of them.

Don’t use poison or synthetic sprays if possible. These are highly unnecessary especially if you’re growing edible plants.

Grasshopper populations can be controlled using basic home remedies. No need to go out and buy a bottle of grasshopper spray with unknown substances.

Eliminating the grasshoppers will help eliminate the beetles. They’re paired.

Check your garden often

Whenever you’re out in your garden, do a quick inspection for blister beetles.

This means when watering your plants, pruning, cleaning, raking, harvesting, picking, or doing other yard work.

Check for blister beetles regularly then take action if you spot them. You’ll often find blister beetles early in the summertime or late spring. You just see a few of the early scouts during the early season.

Then you’ll find the big swarms later in the season.

The key is to find them early in the season so you can prepare for the swarms.

Check your easy target crops like lettuce, potatoes, tomatoes, kale, spinach, or other leafy greens.

Blister beetles often eat the low-hanging crop that’s easy to digest and widely exposed. Note that site.

Check it daily for most beetle activities. They’re not that smart and will continue to gravitate towards the same plant materials until they’re depleted.

Some people even plant decoy plants as early warning signals. You can do the same with plants you don’t care for.

Checking your home and garden of blister beetles can do a lot of good for controlling their damage.

When you see their numbers improve for the summer, being observant can tell you your next move in your plan of action for DIY pest control.

Blister beetles will show up in the largest numbers in July. If your yard is suddenly overwhelmed by these leaf-eaters, you can remove them in huge numbers before they hunker down in your yard.

If you wait, it’ll get extremely difficult to spot them once they burrow themselves into your garden.

When they’re still on the leaf margins of your potatoes or lettuce, it’s easy to get rid of them right then and there.

Beetle infestations will first show up at the edges of your garden. Keep your weeds, grass, or other plants carefully pruned and tidy.

Or just removed the margin bordering plants entirely.

If you spot beetles on the leaves or flowers, act quickly. Remove them manually with the protection of course.

Dunk them into soapy water to kill them. It’s rare to find just one or two beetles. You’ll find them in swarms.

Check daily until they’re completely gone. If they get into your plants, they can hide until you leave them.

Clean up your yard

If your garden hasn’t been tidy of late, you may want to take the chance to clean it up.

Blister beetles are attracted to dense foliage from plants or tall grasses. Weeds are also a thick plant cover that adult beetles will congregate into to deposit eggs.

Weeds not only bring in blister beetles but other insects which may lay their eggs in the foliage.

This provides the blister beetle larvae food to eat- the larvae of OTHER insects.

Basically, the more pests that thrive in your garden, the higher the chance of blister beetle infestation. They have plenty of eggs, nymphs, and plants to eat.

Keep your garden clean to keep blister beetles out:

• Mow your lawn
• Clean up grass clippings
• Remove weeds immediately
• Remove plants that you no longer want or care about
• Trim and prune foliage
• Keep plant leaves tidy and compact
• Don’t let plants grow too crazy
• Keep water features clean (birdfeeders, birdbaths, ponds, pools, etc.)
• Avoid overwatering
• Ensure that water drain ways are clear
• Don’t use plant food/fertilizer if unnecessary
• Clean up leaf litter immediately
• Don’t plant weeds or remove them entirely (pigweed, ironweed, ragweed)

Beetles often will feed on weeds or leafy greens first.

Then they’ll move on to your other plants or insect eggs/nymphs. They go for easy targets that are easy to digest.

Why? Because it expands less energy so they conserve their precious calories from mating, breeding, and feeding!

Doing these things will not only keep blister beetles away but will help keep other insects out of your garden as well.

If there are fewer insects, that means there are fewer eggs. If there are fewer eggs, then there’s less food overall for the blister beetles to eat.

This means your garden can’t sustain a huge population of them since the ecosystem is limited to just what it can provide.

Not enough food? Then there can’t be huge swarms of bugs!

While the beetles can still eat the plant materials there, they’ll have fewer insect eggs to eat (think grasshopper eggs).

So if you combine the total aggregate food availability from both the plant and the insects, there’s less food overall once you remove the insect component of it.

Therefore, you effectively eliminate a good piece of their overall food supply! This controls the maximum amount of blister beetles that can be sustained in your garden overall.

Just by keeping it clean, you can passively get rid of blister beetles naturally without even a single spray.

Install floating row covers

Row covers are a good, effective way to keep pests out of your plants.

They’re a physical barrier that can be purchased for cheap in bulk at your local home improvement store or nursery.

Row covers are only useful if they’re the right size and set up properly. Think of them like bird netting: if the hole isn’t the net is too big, then pests can just go right through it.

So it’s useless. But if you get a size that’s small enough to stop the beetles from getting through, but also allows you to water your plants, then that’s perfect.

The point of the row cover is that it lets you feed and water your crops without disturbing them at the same time while keeping bugs and birds out.

You can find all sorts of row covers online (check on Amazon)  in different sizes. Find a roll that fits your garden.

This is the hard part- you’ll need to do some measurements to find out how much you need, how thick, and how wide.

Once you’re done, it’s just a matter of properly installing it into your garden.

Row covers will prevent the blister beetles from coming into your crops, but don’t stop the small blister beetle larvae from emerging in the springtime.

So it’s best used when combined with some other DIY natural remedy.

Just using row covers only prevents the adults from coming in to feed on your crops or laying off eggs on the leaves.

But it doesn’t stop the tiny nymph beetles from getting in to feed.

Store your plants in greenhouses

For portable plants that are grown in containers, you can move them into a secure greenhouse during peak beetle season.

This will completely protect them from the beetles, as long as you don’t let any smuggle themselves into the greenhouse.

When you enter/exit, do so with caution to make sure that the beetles don’t get inside.

Greenhouses aren’t for everyone, but they make pest management so much simpler if you have one.

Don’t plant pigweed

Pigweed is surprisingly attractive to adult beetles. If your landscape with this weed in your garden, get rid of it.

No matter how much you like it. This weed is one of the blister beetle favorites, along with their cousin’s ragweed and ironweed.

This goes for neighbors as well. If any of you have these weeds growing in your garden, you’ll bring in blister beetles like crazy.

If you don’t know your weeds, here’s a good resource you can use to help identify them.

Use oyster shell lime

Oyster shells are delicious, but did you know they can double as a DIY physical barrier against beetles?

Oyster shells don’t kill the blister beetles, but help discourage them from coming to your garden.

You can use crushed oyster shells or whole shell lime. Place them in strategic sites in your garden.

It’s a completely natural way to help keep the blister beetles out. It’s used as a natural beetle repellent.

Plus, it helps establish the proper soil pH.

So it’s excellent for natural beetle repellent. You can find oyster shell lime online (see Amazon) for cheap or in your local store that carries it (check nurseries or home improvement stores).

Check your garden perimeters

Blister beetle infestations will show up at the field edges first.

If you check these areas often, you’ll be able to spot them before they make their way into your deep garden.

Keep an eye on your crops and eliminate the insects as they show up. Clear out sections with beetles.

For framers, avoid using equipment that can crush the beetles hiding in the hay. First cuttings of hay are generally safer.

Use diatomaceous earth

Diatomaceous earth is a natural fine white crystalline powder that can be used to dehydrate the bugs.

You can find organic food-grade DE online (see Amazon). Don’t get the pool-grade one- it’s not safe for consumption if you’re growing edible plants like tomatoes or potatoes.

Sprinkle the powder into powder and on the surfaces that the beetles are feeding on. Upon contact, they’ll dehydrate because the fine crystalline structure pierces their outer hard body.

It’s especially effective against beetle babies as they crawl over it multiple times foraging for food. The nymphs don’t have wings yet, so they have no choice but to touch the DE.

Use in conjunction with oyster lime or row covers. The covers can block the large adult beetles from getting into your plants to deposit eggs. The DE or oyster lime can kill the nymphs that sneak in through the gaps.

Do blister beetles have predators?

Blister beetles have a few natural predators that’ll feed on them, but they’re not easy to “get” into your garden. So that leaves us with birds.

You may consider using them to your benefit if you’ve got these predators in your area.

Birds

Birds will gladly gobble up blister beetles.

Encourage birds to come into your garden to help feed on the beetles by doing things that bring them in like setting up birdbaths, birdfeeders, etc.

Depending on the type of birds native to your zone, you’ll have to do some reading on how to lure them in.

But once you get them coming, they’ll return daily to feed on the beetles. Don’t use compounds that may repel or harm the birds. Respect them.

How to get rid of blister beetles in the house

Blister beetles may accidentally get into the house. But they don’t generally wander in for no reason.

There’s likely something they’re after if they get inside. You shouldn’t worry too much though, because if your indoor plants are under control, they don’t have anything to eat.

Thus, they’ve got nothing to infest. So beetle infestations generally clear up on their own. Unless you’ve got them outside your home. Then batches of them will show up inside until peak season is over.

There are multitudes of possibilities why blister beetles are in your house:

• The temperature outside is too hot or cold, so they’re seeking shelter from it
• They may have been carried in by wind currents
• They may have been smuggled inside from infested fruits or veggies from your garden
• Houseplants may be infested from the nursery
• Blister beetle entry from windows, doors, etc.
• Change in humidity
• Change in weather

Blister beetles have nothing to invest inside the household, so you should just carefully catch and kill the ones you find. Remember to NEVER touch it directly.

Use a broom and dustpan to sweep them up without crushing them or else they’ll release their toxin.

If you must pick it up by hand, use gloves that aren’t cloth. Use something to grab them so you don’t contact them directly, such as a small brush.

When you’ve manually cleaned up loose beetles, here are some things you can do to prevent them from getting inside your property:

• Repair damaged screens on windows
• Seal or caulk cracks in the exterior walls
• Check for foundational cracks
• Turn off inside lighting at night
• Use blinds or curtains to stop light bleeding to the garden
• Turn off patio lights, pathway lights, or other unnecessary lighting
• Check HVAC grates for damage
• Use doors quickly
• Don’t open windows
• Inspect then quarantine new plants, harvest, fruits, or veggies before taking them inside
• Get rid of indoor plants temporarily until you’ve taken care of the infestation
• Don’t buy new soil or plants in the meantime while you’re getting rid of the blister beetles

How to get rid of blister beetles on tomato plants

Blister beetles on your tomato plants can be controlled using the techniques found in this guide.

Use a combination of various home remedies like installing row covers, sprinkling diatomaceous earth, using oyster lime, keeping your garden tidy, encouraging bird activity, and using spinosad if necessary.

Start from the easiest treatment then move on to the stronger techniques. Tomato flowers will be eaten by the pests first, then they move on to the other parts of the plant.

Using row covers on the tomatoes to provide a physical barrier helps keep the adults out from laying eggs.

Putting some oyster lime on the inside makes a one-two combo for full protection.

While no tomato plants are completely safe from blister beetle damage, you can greatly reduce it.

How to get rid of blister beetles in hay

Blister beetles found in your hay bales are hard to eliminate. The easiest way is to use a reliable hay grower that you know and trust.

They should have a good reputation, but even then, you must carefully examine the hay flakes for signs of beetles.

• Look for visible beetles, beetle frass (beetle poop), or flying beetles that escape once you disturb the cutting.
• Note that beetles will play possum so you may not be able to see them running around so easily.
• After buying the bales, there are some other things you can do to help eliminate the possibility of infestation:

Place the bales in the sun in a quarantine area away from your hay stash, feed, crops, etc.

Let it sit there for a few days. This will encourage beetles hiding in it to leave the bale since there’s no food.

Check manually for beetle activity.

Buying hay feed from reputable growers, then doing some manual inspecting is what you can do to prevent blister beetles in the hay.

If you don’t trust the grower, then don’t buy. Ask them about beetle presence in their product before buying!

Commercial remedies

There are a lot of sprays out there for beetles, but only a few are organic or safe for edible plants.

Whether you’re growing something edible or not, consider going green because it’s safe for your, your pets, and the environment. Not to mention sensitive individuals who may visit your yard.

Regardless, make sure you read the label and use the pesticide as directed.

What insecticide kills blister beetles?

Spinosad is an effective insecticide that you can spray to help kill blister beetles.

This is considered to be an organic ingredient, so if you’re growing organic veggies or fruits, it may be worth considering as a last resort insect remedy. You should always read the warning label and use it as directed.

Some people spray their alfalfa hay that’s been infested with spinosad. This may be appropriate, but only if directed by the label. Consult the manufacture if you need assistance.

If you’re using it on edibles, be sure that it’s safe for them.

Spinosad can be found in a variety of bug sprays. Blister beetles should be clearly listed on the label as a target insect before you buy them or else it may be a waste of your money.

It’s an OMRI-listed pesticide, so it’s safe for organic gardening when the right type is used for the right application, so don’t just go buying anything with spinosad in it. That’s not how you do it.

Here’s a products from Amazon that may be worth considering:

• Monterey LG6135 Garden Insect Spray

Additionally, spinosad will break down into inert ingredients when used in the sun. Read the label. It’s more about using it at the right time.

Further reading

• Blister Beetles | Entomology – University of Kentucky
• Blister Beetles / Alfalfa / Agriculture – UC IPM
• Dealing with Blister Beetles – UNL Beef
• Blister Beetle in Alfalfa – CropWatch
• Blister Beetles – Department of Entomology

Did you get rid of the blister beetles?

These beetles are scary in huge numbers so you should act quickly to eliminate them if you wanna save your plants from being eaten.

Do your regular garden inspections for beetles in the early spring to spot them, then formulate a plan of action to get rid of them.

It’s not possible to completely eliminate the beetles entirely if you’re in a zone that they’re native to.

But reducing the damage can be done through the means of using natural repellents, and physical barriers, and then using organic sprays as needed.

Do you have questions about your specific blister beetle infestation? Post them below using the comments form and I’ll try to get back to you ASAP (as usual).

If you found this guide helpful, please let me know. Or if you have any feedback for improvements, please do the same!

Consider telling a neighbor or friend who may be going through a nightmare dealing with these bugs- it’s the most you could do for me!

The post How to Get Rid of Blister Beetles Naturally (Guide) appeared first on BugWiz.

These little bugs are the larval form of pickleworm moths. They’re extremely destructive in their caterpillar phase, where they’ll gladly munch on flowers, then fruits, then vines. In that order.

While they may look harmless (who hasn’t eaten pickleworms?), they can quickly eat up your harvest within a single season.

This is because of their “boring” nature.

In other words, they “bore” holes into fruit rinds. Once the rind is pierced, the fruit will rot. So then you have some caterpillar eating the inside.

Plus fruit that’s been cut and now exposed to the elements.

Let’s not forget to remind ourselves of the worm poop that leaks out of the tunnel they dig. Gross.

Thankfully, there are some things you can do to help reduce their numbers.

In this article, you’ll read about:

• How to identify pickleworms
• What pickleworms eat, where they hide, and where they come from so you can ID the source
• How to get rid of them naturally without poisons
• Ways to prevent pickleworms in the future
• And more

If you have a question about your pickleworm issue, post a comment using the form on the end of this page. I’ll try to help you out!

Please bookmark this page if you feel the need to do so. It’ll make it easier to refer to on your journey to rid these pests.

Let’s send those pickleworms out of your squash and into the garbage!

What’s a pickleworm?

Pickleworms are the larvae of the pickleworm moth.

They’re notorious for eating a variety of seasonal produce like squash, melons, cantaloupes, pumpkins, winter squash, watermelon, or cucumbers.

Pickleworms are commonly found in the southern states like Florida or Texas, but also range up north, even to Canada.

These worms are known for the tunnel-like holes they bore into your fruits or veggies which can ruin your harvest.

The holes they dig are telltale signs that your produce has been infested.

While pickleworms may be scary to find crawling in your fruit, they’re not too hard to get rid of. They can cause significant damage to many different plants.

Note that pickleworms are the most destructive as larvae.

This is when they’re munching down the fruits, leaves, stems, and organic matter of your plants.

They need food to molt and finally undergo pupation where they turn into a moth. Even as larvae, they can pose a serious threat in the garden. This is where they do the most damage.

Other names

Pickleworms have a few different aliases in the community.

Other than pickleworms, here’s what other nicknames they can be referred to:

• D. nitidalis
• Green caterpillar
• Melon worm
• Cucumber worm
• Squash worm
• Pickle caterpillar
• Pickleworm moth
• Cantaloupe worm
• Pumpkin worm
• Diaphania nitidalis
• Rindworm
• Squash bugs
• Stem borers

You can clearly see they have a bunch of different names.

Identification – What do pickleworms look like?

Pickleworms may be hard to distinguish from other similar bugs like caterpillars in the garden, but they do have some phenotypic characteristics that you can use to identify them in your yard.

Remember that they go through 5 different molts before they turn into an adult moth.

So it’s important to know their lifecycle. This way you can tell if it’s a pickleworm or not during any of the instars.

The following subsections tell you what to look for.

Caterpillars

Pickleworms are easy to identify because of their color. They’re light tan to brown and will change multiple times as they grow.

These caterpillars will change their size, shape, and color over time as they approach metamorphosis into an adult pickleworm moth.

Newly hatched pickleworm larvae are nearly colorless. They may have a slightly whitish or tan coloration to them but can be translucent.

Their head has a darker shade compared to the tail end. Older caterpillars turn yellowish-green. Larvae have dark spots and are found in flower buds.

Younger pickleworms can be identified by their row of raised tubercles. These look like tiny dark dots on their body.

Nymphs also have a line of seta that stick out from each raised tubercle.

Setae look like tiny caterpillar hairs that stick out from each set.

Pickleworms will turn a variety of colors as they eat away at your fruits. They’ll turn from light yellow to dark green.

Over time, the caterpillars will drop their tubercles. If you don’t see these raised dots or hairs coming out anymore, they’ve been in place for a while.

Flying moths

The adult moths emerge from the cocoon, depending on temperature, food, and resources.

People unfamiliar with bugs generally get confused. They assume that the adult pickleworm moth is not the same species as the larvae when they are.

Thus, it can make identification difficult. If they only see half the picture, they may not put the pieces together to know what insect they’re dealing with.

That’s why it’s important to get educated about how to identify, manage, and finally get rid of pickleworms!

Lifecycle

Pickleworms under multiple instars (3-4) until it pupates into a moth.

This can confuse people who don’t know what they’re looking for.

The entire lifecycle takes about 25-33 days to complete.

Eggs

Pickleworm eggs are about 0.5mm in width and about 0.8mm in length.

The eggs are tiny and hard to see without using a zoom function. Eggs are laid in small clusters, which consist of 2-7 eggs each.

They’re found on the buds, flowers, stems, and leaves of host plants. It’s been noted that a single female moth can lay up to 400 eggs!

The shape of the eggs varies. They can be spherical or flat. They’re white when first laid, but will slowly change to yellow over the first 24 hours.

The tiny black eggs can be seen on the leaves and the larvae can be found crumpled under the leaves or in the fruit.

Larvae

Larvae undergo 5 total instars. Each instar is about 3 days in length. Younger larvae are almost pale white with lots of dark spots on the body in pairs.

The dark spots will disappear on the final instar, which usually occurs on the 7th day upon feeding.

Larvae will be anything from yellow to green before they molt depending on what they eat.

When they’re ready to pupate, they turn into a dark brown shade that suggests feeding is done.

Pickleworms reach up to 2.5cm at max length before turning into moths at pupation. The numerous black spots on their body will fade as they molt through instars.

These worms can be off white, yellow, orange, or green.

When born, they’ll often be found eating flowers. But will eventually go into fruit by eating the inside and produce waste.

Younger fruits are preferable because they have soft rinds.

But pickleworms can still eat fruits with hardened rinds. Pickleworm will pupate on dead or dry leaf materials rather than being exposed.

The pupa will form on a leaf fold which can be curled or rolled.

They seek out these folds to protect them from predators during the pupation process because they go dormant. The larvae will use dry material to construct their pupa.

Cocoon isn’t the technical name, but it sure does look like one. You may see a few pieces of silk on the pupa, which measures about 13mm in length with a 3-4mm thickness.

Pupae are brown or black and then tapers at the top and bottom of it. About 10 days later, the moth will emerge in the nighttime hours, but won’t fly until midnight or so.

Moth

The adult moth will fly shortly after hatching and release a pheromone to bring in males.

Pickleworm moths are dark brown on the fringes of the wings and head, but have a lighter tan color in the center of their wings.

They have long antennae and large black eyes. They’re somewhat transparent with a yellowish color on the front wings.

Wings are about 3cm at max length with hairy brushy tips on the abdomen. Moths aren’t found out in the daytime and will hide in plant matter during hot days.

They come out at night to mate. The wings are shiny and will show purplish reflection. They have hairy rear ends.

The triangular wings are mostly brown with a splash of yellow. It’s about the same size as the melon worm moth, but a bit smaller.

The moth is nocturnal. If you disturb it, it’ll fly a short distance.

Are pickleworms dangerous to humans?

Pickleworms aren’t considered to be dangerous to humans. They’re just dangerous to your crops.

You wouldn’t believe how many people will eat pickleworm larvae without ever noticing it. It’s just the mental aspect of it- eating a caterpillar? Gross.

But you should still avoid eating fruits that have been infested with them. Rinse your fruits, inspect for pests, then eat carefully.

When in doubt, throw it out!

What do they eat?

Pickleworms eat a variety of fruits and veggies, including the stems, vines, flowers, and more. They can be extremely harmful to smaller harvests since they decimate the entire plot.

But they’re known for their favorite host plant- this summer squash.

You may also find pickleworms in the following crops:

• Cucumber
• Watermelon
• Cantaloupe
• Squash
• Honeydew
• Pumpkins
• Creeping cucumber
• Wild balsam apples
• Winter squash
• Gherkin

This list is not inclusive. Damage extent also depends on the fruit itself.

For winter squash or watermelon, pickleworms rarely will do enough damage to get to the actual fruit.

This is because of the tough rind on the outside that protects the internal flesh.

But these pests will still feed on the rind, which will leave behind some minor scarring.

The flesh of the fruit should remain intact unless it’s been compromised by plant pathogens or other pests.

These caterpillars may also eat the flowers, stems, buds, or foliage of plants, whether they’re fruit-bearing or not.

The majority of pickleworms will be found inside the fruit.

Where do they come from?

Pickleworms are native to southern states like Texas, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Sanford, Michigan, Connecticut, and even further up north. Pickleworms are excellent migratory insects.

Their capability of flight allows them to easily invade much of Florida when the winters are not too cold.

Warmer, humid conditions are perfect for pickleworms.

They generally show up in the summertime, as with most insects, and will migrate north throughout the regions. Warmer weather with high humidity helps pickleworms thrive in their native environment.

They’ve even been discovered in Canada, so don’t doubt their migratory ability.

Since they can fly as adults, they can infest many different regions just by flight. When temperatures rise in the summertime, pickleworm activity increases.

They slowly vanish when fall approaches and will completely disappear with winter.

So yes, pickleworms do go away on their own. But only because of the cold winter.

But if your zone is relatively warm all year round, pickleworms may be present even in fall and winter. Only in USDA zones with cold frost will the pickleworms vanish.

Otherwise, you need to do something about them if you wanna save your fruits.

Where do they hide?

Pickleworms spend most of their time inside the fruit. They eat through the outer, soft surface and then dig a signature hole right into the flesh.

If you cut the fruit, you may see the caterpillars on the inside of it which may freak you out!

These caterpillars are excellent hiders because of their tiny size. Most gardeners won’t even notice them until they cut the fruit.

For fruits with outer shells (rinds), the worms will spend their time eating the rind.

You may see them crawling on the outside of your fruit, which is usually fruits like watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew, squash, etc. either way, the first worm is the one that’ll let you know your fruits or veggies are in danger of pickleworms!

Where are pickleworms found?

Pickleworms are found on many different host plants.

The larvae caterpillars infest cucurbits, whether they’re wild or cultivated species.

The pickleworm is known for destroying its favorite food- the squash. But it can be found on cucumber, pumpkin, cantaloupe, gourd, muskmelon, winter squash, or other cucurbits.

But summer squash is the most common host plant where both gardeners and industrial farmers face destruction.

The larvae can be found on the rind of the plant, which can lead to scarring. Larvae will eat the vines when all the blossoms are eaten, but won’t burrow into the fruit just yet.

Signs of pickleworm damage

Here you can find some common telltale signs of pickleworm damage.

Look for these signs of pickleworm infestation:

• Dark holes in the sides of soft fruit
• Yellowish green frass (pickleworm waste) that’s sticky with a mucus-like appearance
• Visible caterpillars inside the fruit
• Curled or damaged stems
• Leaves with jagged edges
• Holes in leaves
• Visible pickleworm moths buzzing around your watermelon or squash
• Visible pickleworms on the flowers, stems, or foliage of the plant
• Scarring on the rinds of the fruits
• Failed blossoms
• Holes or damage to the vines
• Visible larvae hiding within the stamens
• White frass around the holes of the damage
• Yellow fecal matter coming out of the tunnel

Crop damage occurs early in the season. The moths will start to migrate north from south FL or TX into NC or SC.

So most people won’t see the damage until late June. Crops planted earlier can actually completely avoid damage from pests.

Northern regions may not see damage from pickleworms until August.

Pickleworms can also go through their entire population without ever getting into the fruit, such as those with large blossoms.

They can fly from one blossom to another without having to burrow. They prefer NOT to burrow since the blossoms are much easier targets.

When blossoms have been destroyed, they’ll enter the fruit. When the fruit has been destroyed, the larvae will eat the vines.

Pickleworms generally do more damage to the fruit.

But they may feed on the small leaves at the tips of vines or blossoming flowers. Vines may have visible holes or punctures in them which can stop the growth of your buds.

What kills pickleworms?

Plenty. There are lots of DIY techniques you can utilize.

Everything from neem oil to nematodes can kill the larvae.

There are also other alternative techniques such as physical barriers using row covers, bird netting, or pickleworm traps.

Trap cropping, spraying spinosad, or even using natural predators can also be effective.

We’ll cover each of these remedies in this guide.

How to get rid of pickleworms

This section covers how you can get rid of pickleworms naturally without using harmful compounds.

After all, you don’t wanna be spaying down your squash with dangerous insecticides because you’ll be eating it.

Depending on the type of you’re growing, your care needs may vary.

However, these general guidelines should work to help you control, manage, and eradicate pickleworms from your crops.

Some control techniques can be done organically so no synthetic poisons are necessary.

Remove pickleworms manually

Larvae can be found in the squash flowers.

They hide near the stamens of the flower, which look like a ring of pointed parts inside the flowers.

If you dig around the base of the flower, you can spot pickleworms hiding there. Remove the entire flower and then dip it into soapy water to kill the larvae.

Pickleworms will then move to bore holes into the fruit. This happens when they’re about half grown.

Once they dig their way into the fruit, they will continue to feed inside. This looks like small holes with a pile of white frass on the outside rind.

If you see this, remove the fruit entirely to dispose of it. The easiest way to sample pickleworms?

Check the buds for small caterpillars before they start to feed into the fruits.

You can find these darkened holes with their white excrement on the outside.

It can be yellowish or whitish. The poop exits the tunnel by leaking out of the original hole. It dries and turns hard.

It’s easy to spot because it looks like the white crust on the rinds of your fruit right next to their tunnels.

Neem oil

Neem oil has been backed by people in the gardening community. There is also research that suggests neem oil is effective against pickleworms.

It can be used as an organic insecticide to kill and prevent pickleworms.

Neem that’s been cold-pressed will interrupt the lifecycle by killing on contact. 100% neem oil can be purchased in local home improvement stores (Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc.) or online.

Look for ingredients that are completely natural or organic since you’re using them on edibles. Use as directed.

Neem oil should always be tested on a single leaf before spraying or painting the entire plant.

It’ll take a few weeks to see results, as it’s not instant. It should also be OMRI or WSDA listed. They MUST be safe for edible plants before you apply them.

Read and understand the safety precautions and are labeled and intended for the crop you plan to spray it on.

Typically, you’ll dab a paintbrush with the neem oil then paint the fruits with the oil.

The neem acts like a physical barrier that’ll kill the caterpillars when they’re crawling on it. Reapply every few weeks or after it rains. Ensure that your neem oil is completely organic.

The oil will have a texture that makes it easy to see on your fruits.

So you can tell which parts of your plants have been coated with the neem. Be sure to wash it off before you eat. Use a rough sponge dabbed with some vegetable cleaner to completely remove the neem.

Other people have tried using a hand sprayer combined with neem oil, soap, and baking soda. This is less laborious but may not work as effectively as 100% straight neem.

Note that neem will trap heat, so don’t apply it during the peak hours of sunlight. Only use it when there’s limited light outside.

Additionally, read all warnings as some pets or people may be sensitive to neem oil.

If you don’t have easily accessible neem oil for purchase, check Amazon. There are plenty of organic products there, but be sure to check the ingredients. It should be 100% organic neem oil only.

Use row covers

Row covers are neat little barriers you can set up to shield your fruits/veggies from pickleworms.

It acts as a physical barrier that blocks the moths out. If they can’t get in, then they can’t deposit their eggs.

This reduces the likelihood that your fruits will become the host plant for larvae. Row covers can be purchased in a variety of different sizes.

Size your floating row cover so that it fits snugly over the soil line and isn’t large enough for moths to cross the netting. Make sure you set it up correctly or else moths can still get in.

Note that barrier netting won’t keep the caterpillars out. They can easily sneak in between the gaps.

It’s made for adult moths so they can’t lay pickleworm eggs on your plants. These can be purchased in rolls in bulk online (check price on Amazon).

Floating row covers have been shown to effectively keep pickleworms, caterpillars, moths, beetles, whiteflies, worms, flies, and other pests out of squash plants.

Even aphids or melon worms. Row covers prevent the large moths from getting to the plant, which stops them from laying eggs.

They need to be removed to let bees and birds pollinate, which is usually after your cucurbits flower. This can help prevent early infestations, but will still allow adult moths present to deposit eggs.

The alternative is to remove the covers during the day so bees can help fertilize your fruits.

But then replace the row covers after the evening to prevent the moths from getting inside.

Do you see how they can serve dual purposes?

Row covers are cheap and effective, and you can easily find them in home improvement stores, nurseries, or just order them online. Make sure you fit them well and use a sizing tool to get accurate assessments for your plants.

If it doesn’t fit right, it’s compromised because it just lets them walk into your plants like a buffet.

Here’s a video that shows off how row covers work so you get an idea of it:

Plant pickleworm resistant cultivars

Some cucurbits exhibit resistance to pickleworms by deterring egg-laying mated females.

The following types of cucurbits are more resilient to pickleworm infections:

• Butternut 23
• Summer Crookneck
• Early Prolific Straightneck
• Early Yellow Summer Crookneck

These types of cucurbits are more vulnerable to pests:

• Cozini Zucchini
• Black Caserta Zucchini
• Benning’s Green Tint Scallop squash

You may be able to find these types in nurseries or online. Check for professionals to help you identify the types.

Bag your fruit

Fruit bagging can be extremely effective in keeping pests out.

Use fine mesh bags to cover your fruits so that larvae can’t burrow into them. These mesh bags can be purchased at specialty greeneries or online.

Get reusable bags to save yourself money. Bird netting also works well if the holes are no larger than 0.5 inches in diameter

Nylon socks are also an alternative. Wrap your vines with the sock completely then tie it down using a twist tie or rubber band. Cheap, effective, DIY solution!

The netting keeps bugs out of fruits. It’s also cost-effective and readily available. Moths are about 1” in length, so if the holes are small enough, then they can’t get through to deposit eggs.

Get rid of weed clutter

Weeds in the cucurbit genus can be hosts for these pests.

These include creeping cucumber, balsam apple, and other cucurbits.

These plants can be temporary homes for pickleworms during the temperature dips.

If removed, it can help eliminate the possibility of them hiding or seeking shelter in these plants in crop fields.

Never plant or allow these weeds to grow near your main crops.

Keep your garden clean

Removing plant materials that are not needed can help make your garden less favorable to pests.

Doing this regularly can help remove larvae or eggs that can be hiding in the plants.

While a clean garden isn’t impregnable to bugs, it can be significantly less appealing compared to your neighbor’s yard.

So consider these tips to prevent pickleworms from infesting your fruits:

• Get rid of unwanted plants immediately (these just take time/effort to maintain and provide hiding places)
• Don’t overwater your plants (overwatering leads to excess moisture buildup)
• Don’t overfeed your plants (nutrient build up is bait for pests)
• Remove plant debris
• Clean up leaf litter immediately
• Clean up grass clipping
• Mow your lawn
• Prune plants regularly
• Remove plants that have been infested
• Do NOT compost infected plants!

It’s important to not save plant matter that has been infected because they can have eggs intact. That fruit that has minimal damage? Get rid of it!

Harvest fruits early

As you already know, you should be the one enjoying the “fruits” of your labor- not the pickleworms!

So pick your fruits on time. You should never just let them sit on the stems. Harvesting on time helps save your plants in the same manner as persea mites, asparagus beetles, and cauliflower bugs.

Pick your squash as soon as they’re ready. Don’t let them sit.

This will reduce the likelihood of pest infestation, especially as the crop becomes softer and easier for them to penetrate by munching through it.

Do some in-depth research on knowing when to pick on time. Some fruits can be harvested even before they look like they’re good to go.

You can sit them safely inside your house while you wait for them to be ready.

This will shield them from pickleworms so you can enjoy them for yourself!

Plant crops early

Just like harvesting earlier, you should plant your fruits as early as you possibly can.

Yes, your hardiness zone will only allow you to plant so early, but you can always start indoors to get a head start.

These pests will start out in the south and move north throughout the season. If you plant early, you only have to deal with early infestations, which aren’t as bad.

If you plant late, the insects will migrate north, which will be more destructive to your fruit. The bugs get bigger, which means a more voracious appetite.

So sow your seeds earlier in the season if possible.

Start indoors so you can get an earlier harvest compared to a later one. Check your hardiness zone to see when is the earliest you can possibly plant your crops.

Plant extra fruit

Consider planting additional fruits.

If your area is prone to these caterpillars, then plant more so that even if some are destroyed, you’ll have some leftovers to harvest.

Be careful though. You may just be providing food for them to eat.

Prune on a schedule

Keeping your harvest nice and tidy is supplemental to keeping bugs off your fruits permanently.

Practice doing a regular, scheduled pruning to keep your fruits looking clean. Use a sterile pair of scissors or pruners (use rubbing alcohol to sterilize it).

Go around your plant and prune these key areas to prevent infestation:

• Snip off damaged foliage
• Cut yellowing or browning leaves
• Cut off stems that have been compromised by pest activity
• Cut off leaves that have holes or eggs
• If you see pickleworms feeding actively on a specific part of your plant, remove that section entirely
• Remove overgrown or dense foliage
• Snip off flower buds to help encourage your plant to fruit

Pruning should be done regularly to maintain your harvest. It can help get rid of pickleworm activity significantly when done on a scheduled basis.

Cleaner foliage means fewer hiding places, which makes the environment less favorable so they’re not as likely to infest it.

Be sure to prune!

Set a reminder on your phone if you have to.

It makes a huge difference when done consistently. Less foliage = less hiding places = easier to spot the pests. It also makes the adult pickleworm moths less drawn to your squash plots.

Remove infested fruits right away

Infested fruits should be removed immediately when you spot them.

Cut them off gently from the stem or vine, then dispose of them in a sealed bag or container.

Don’t just toss them into the compost bin. It allows the worms to come out and then reinfest something else.

Or if they’ve already undergone pupation (the process of metamorphosing from caterpillar to moth in a cocoon), adult moths can be present.

Infested fruits will have holes on the outer surface which are the telltale clue that pickleworms are inside.

Don’t take your chances. Infested fruit that you don’t remove gives them somewhere to hide from view! You already know the signs of an infested squash or watermelon.

Check your fruits whenever you’re outside watering, pruning, harvesting, or doing some work on them. Get into the habit of it for your good!

Kill pickleworm larvae

The pupae will hide in curled leaves or rolled leaves.

They often squeeze themselves between foliage because it provides them some safety.

Predators may not notice a pupating between a small gap.

These areas prove to be the place that the caterpillars will spend their time nestled between as they slowly change into adult moths.

If you have a nicely pruned plant, it’s easy to check for pupating larvae.

Look for these key areas in your foliage where pickleworms are hiding in:

• Places where leaves are curled or rolled
• Areas with dense foliage cover
• Between stems and leaf joints
• The pupation cocoon looks exactly as you would imagine it
• Pupating pickleworms are white or tan with a sticky coating

Here’s a video to show you how to identify them:

What you want to do is remove or crush them. If you’re squeamish, put on some garden gloves. Pick off the leaves with pickleworm larvae then toss them into a bucket of soapy water.

You can make your pickleworm killer simply by using 1 part dish soap to 10 parts water. Once you drop the leaves into it, they’ll perish. You can also just crush the pupae on the foliage if you want to do so.

This will interrupt their pupation and stop them from becoming adult moths, which can prevent future infections on your crops.

Use natural predators of pickleworms

Pickleworms have very few natural predators because they’re always hiding. At first, they’re hiding in the flowers.

Then they’re hiding in the fruits. So there are limited opportunities for predators to eat them.

Because of this, it’s not recommended. It’s also hard to get ahold of these predators.

Soldier beetles, fire ants, or other parasitoids may be effective in pickleworm management, but aren’t practical. This is why you should look at other options.

The only reliable predators include the regular bunch- birds, bats, and parasitoid wasps.

These may not be available to you, depending on where you live. But if you have these beneficial insects natively in your garden, do some research on how to get more of them to your garden.

For example, you can set out bird feeders, birdbaths, and birdhouses for birds. Or put some bat boxes around your yard for bats.

Pickleworm trap planting

You can use a lesser-favored decoy plant to help keep your pickleworms from being eaten.

Squash can be used as a trap crop to keep them from eating cantaloupe, which is less preferred to these bugs.

This depends on what you’re planting. If you plant both highly preferred plants with lesser preferred plants together, they’ll swarm to the higher one as a target. Use it as a decoy if possible.

For example, if you want to grow cantaloupes, you can use squash as a decoy. They’ll swarm to the squash instead, which leaves your cantaloupes intact. 

Destruction of squash blossoms should be done to eliminate them by getting rid of their food supply.

Consider nematodes or microorganisms (biological)

Nematode Steinernema carpocapsae has been shown to kill pickleworms in squash.

But nematodes are limited in effectiveness because once they get inside the fruit, the effectiveness goes to zero.

Not all nematodes or microorganism are safe to use for edible plants.

There are some things you need to keep in mind before you use them:

• It should be OMRI or WSDA listed.
• They MUST be safe for edible plants before you use them.
• Read and understand the safety precautions and are labeled and intended for the right crop you wish to use it on.
• The insect should be listed on the label.

Nematodes should be used in large open blossomed plants because it allows the nematodes to kill the larvae when they’re still inside the flowers.

But when they start to move into the fruit, it’s pointless. Thai nematodes can help reduce damage from pickleworms in squash because of the large flowers.

The nematodes can eat the pickleworm leaves before they drill holes into the fruit. But it may not work on smaller blossoms because they’re not protected from the sun, which kills this particular species of nematode.

Try Bt

Bacillus thuringiensis will kill pickleworms as well, but should only be used on large blooming plants. Bt can be used as a last resort if all other DIY remedies fail.

Some studies out of FL have found that Bt can be effective in the control of pickleworms, but only before they burrow into the rind of the fruits.

Pickleworm and melon worms are vulnerable to Bt. It is considered to be an organic pest control method, but only when OMRI-listed products are used.

Bt must be ingested for it to work. Since most pickleworms hide in leaf curls, spray coverage is reduced.

It’s most effective when sprayed on buds or open flowers. If you choose to use it, be sure to follow the label and use it as directed.

Pickleworms and melon worms are both susceptible to Bt. It’s also considered to be an organic way to get rid of pickleworms, but only when OMRI-listed products are used.

Bt must be ingested by the pickleworm caterpillars to be effective. Since most of them are hiding between leaf curls, it can be hard to get them to eat them.

Spray coverage is hindered because of this. Bt is most effective when applied during the period when the blooming cycle.

Similar to Steinernema carpocapsae, it’s useless if the caterpillars have already entered your crops.

Both of these microorganisms can be purchased online (see Amazon). Read the label. Use as instructed.

Nematodes aren’t usually used in the home garden but are more for industrial usage. They’ll wash off with the rain so you need to constantly reapply if your zone is subject to rains.

Some people in the community have had results using Bt or S. carpocapsea. So it’s up to your due diligence.

Try Spinosad

Spinosad is a microorganism that naturally occurs in soil.

This bacteria is considered to be an organic insecticide.

However, they’re only effective if the worms haven’t burrowed into the fruit yet, so it’s similar to Bt in terms of how well it works against caterpillars.

Read all labels and use them as directed.

Get professional help

If you can’t get rid of the worms on your own, it’s time to hire professional exterminators.

Do some research on local pest control companies and see if you can get a few quotes. Look for companies that offer a guarantee so you don’t have to spend more money if the pickleworms aren’t taken care of.

Check if they offer organic pest control, as you’ll be eating the crops so you don’t want poisons sprayed all over them.

There are plenty of other ways to manage and control the pickleworms in your garden that don’t involve dangerous compounds or poisonous ones.

Your task is to find the exterminators near you that offer them!

Read some reviews and call around. It can be worth it for you, even if you have to pay for it.

If you’re a busy person, your time is worth more than the cost of hiring contractors to do the work for you.

Commercial remedies

Out of options? Then try a commercial product. Just be sure that whatever you use is labeled for organic/natural use and is SAFE for edible plants!

There are a few products out on the market that you can buy advertised to work for pickleworms.

Here’s one of them that you can check out on Amazon:

• Garden Safe Brand Bt Worm & Caterpillar Killer 16 Ounces

If you choose to use a store-bought insecticide, make sure you read the label and use as directed.

Pickleworm should be listed as a pest on the label. And the intended crop you plan to use it on should be there as well.

Will Sevin dust kill pickleworms?

Sevin dust should not be used to remedy pickleworms. The application is messy and rarely will stick to just the application site.

There’s also not enough evidence online that it’s effective against pickleworms, nor the safety to use on edible plants. Stick to the safer, natural remedies.

How to prevent pickleworms for good

This section covers basic tips and tricks you can practice to reduce the likelihood of infestation.

Remember that if you’re in the southern states prone to pickleworm damage, it’s really not possible to completely prevent them.

You can take steps to help save some of your crops so you can enjoy them for yourself:

• Keep your garden CLEAN
• Harvest your fruits early if possible
• Inspect your vines, flowers, buds, stems, fruits, and soil regularly for pests
• Wrap plants in the evening; remove wraps in the daytime to allow pollination
• Plant early harvest verities or switch to insect resilient cultivars
• Consider using neem oil to coat your vines/fruits
• Manually remove larvae every time you water or do yardwork
• Be patient and diligent in your efforts!

Pickleworms can be safeguarded from damage when proper practices are put into effect, which can help keep pickleworms away from squash, melons, cucumbers and other crops.